allbaugh_04

iTrader: (6)

It honestly sounds like a pain in the ***, how much can I expect if I were to pay a mechanic to tackle this job, or can someone convince me it's not that hard.

chopperb

iTrader: (1)

It is not to bad. A shop should charge you 4 hours on it. At the shop im at parts and labor will be about $360 for it.

mikh338

iTrader: (16)

do you have to drop k member to replace oil pan?

autogeek23

iTrader: (13)

Yeah. When I replaced my pan gasket first time I just lowered the k member a little.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

I didnt. At all.

I had my car on jackstands. This sounds a lot worse than it is. It's very straight forward and to the point. Should be about 4 hours start to finish, realistically.

Unbolt the 8 motor mount bolts that go from the pedestal to K, 4 per side. Undo steering shaft and set aside.

Lift the motor as high as you can. I went until the intake manifold touched the cowl.

Before you even TOUCH one of the pan bolts, go get a flat tip screwdriver and a little hammer out of your tool box. Locate the little "nubs" on each side of the oil pan. One per side. These are the 2 rivets that GM so graciously decided to attach the pan and gasket with. Knock those two heads off. It's soft aluminum and should only take one small whach per side.

Now remove all the bolts, including the 2 little ones in the rear in front of the bellhousing. Again use your screwdriver if need be if it's stuck.

Remove the single 10mm bolt on the pickup tube to the oil pump. (nows a good time to throw a new oring on there, 5 bucks) and remove the small nut on the stud, that holds the pick up tube in place. I just laid mine in the pan.

There should be AMPLE room to get the old gasket off and fish it around the windage tray. Don't forget there's still those two rivets in the gasket. Make sure they're there upon removal.

Install the new one the same way it came out. New gasket has no foolish rivets to deal with. Replace the nut that holds the pickup tube in place, and then the 10mm bolt that holds the tube to the pump. Clean the bottom of your front timing cover well, one final wipe with some rubbing alcohol, and introduce it to some RTV Ultra Black.

Torque bolts in sequence, to spec. I myself use a beam wrench for the two little ones in the rear.

Now lower the motor back down and reinstall the 4 bolts per side for the motor mount pedestal to K member. Reinstall steering shaft.

Crack a damn beer. You earned it. Say hello to Pride and introduce yourself. He's quite friendly once you get to know him.

allbaugh_04

iTrader: (6)

I like pride and beer, thanks for the write up!

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Are you 100% sure its the pan gasket that is leaking? It would stink to dish out 4 bills to find out it still leaks.

allbaugh_04

iTrader: (6)

No, I have no idea actually. Going to get under the car this weekend hopefully.

xela nirvash

VERY TRUE,and i found out about it the hard way.yeah no not really a friend of my uncle changed the gasket labor and all for a very low price $200.00 "SHE just opened up HER own shop), and well there is no more leaks
so i found couple of minutes later that the transmission is leaking.
there is oil coming out the torque converter why,i dont know
now i need to speak with the transmission guy

WS6wanted

Hey dr wingham, where did you jack the engine from and what was the sequense you used to tighten the oil pan bolts (especially regrding tightening the 2 bellhousing bolts first or last). Did you take down the hole pan or did you just get it down enough to change the gasket. Thanks inadvance. I have to take down my pan soon too.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

I only took the pan down far enough to get the old gasket out and new one in.

I jacked the motor up from the closest point to the motor on the bell housing, as that's all you'll have available.

Remember, you MUST remove the oil pickup tube or you'll never get it in. It's easy. Just a single nut on a stud and it comes free.

I found the torque sequence online. Might have been LS1howto.com. I don't remember offhand.

Novas Forever

I purchased my 2002 WS6 in December and it had a horrible oil leak. After reading dr-wigham's post I decided to pull the pan and save myself $800. His method worked great although it wasn't easy. Easier than dropping the K member though. I had the 6 speed out at the same time which did help. Getting the oil pick up bolted back on was a pain. The gasket had been replaced at some point with a Felpro. It was not leaking but the rear seal housing was.

After I got that housing and gasket off I could see where the plastic separated from the metal. I got an alignment tool from Sac City Corvette and put it back together. No leaks. Quality was certainly lacking when they made these cars but it is fun.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

Wherever you go to get it done make SURE they check all the side main cap bolts that they can reach (some are behind the ac brackets etc so cannot be easily reached). Ive had a few "pan gasket leaks" turn out to be loose or missing main cap side bolts.