installing ASP where to get longer bolt for install??
#1
installing ASP where to get longer bolt for install??
IS it a GM part # or do i just go to a home depot to get one?? Sorry ATI balancer is going on really hard and the stock bolt wont even grab
#3
you could use an air hammer to slightly press it on farther but that could ding it. Home depot may have a longer bolt that you could use to get it started and pressed on farther, then replace with a new GM bolt (OR the new bolt that ATI recommends using)
#6
yes, just trying to get the new ATI on i wasnt to worried about the stock bolt they worked for me so far . Just wondering where everyone got a longer bolt with more threads at. When i read the ATI sheet i dont think they had a preference for bolt usage they did explain both ways to install.
#7
I did heat it up to almost 200 degrees and it started to slide on but bolt was just a bit to short to get a good amount of threads. Still have the fans and radiator in so i dont think i could even get a air hammer near it. i did use a BFH and a piece of wood and did some tapping but the shaft already started to cool off....
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#8
WHOA!!! do not play around with that stock bolt anymore, you stand a good chance of stripping it in your crank. Bad news dude. Check out this thread....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-classifieds/1611565-fs-balancer-pulley-install-tools.html
Just PM hiltsy855 and he'll ship a tool out quickly for 20 bucks. Its basically just a good, correct size bolt, washer and nut, but it works and makes it easy. No running around, no worries.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-classifieds/1611565-fs-balancer-pulley-install-tools.html
Just PM hiltsy855 and he'll ship a tool out quickly for 20 bucks. Its basically just a good, correct size bolt, washer and nut, but it works and makes it easy. No running around, no worries.
#11
my factory balancer was damaged by a rock or something, broke a flange off. Replaced it with a 25% reduced BBK. Well someone told me not to grease the pulley since there isn't a key on the shaft, but we had to grease it and still had to press it on under car on lift with air hammer. Once it got on and started pressing, we ran it on using the old bolt, took it out, then put in a new GM bolt and tightened her down. I'm not sure if this was done correctly, just one of those "in the heat of the moment" jobs. It turned out good!
#13
#14
No, No, No. And No, again. You *never* want to twist in a bolt to pull on a balancer. Not even once.
A piece of threaded rod with an external nut to push it on? Fine. The load on the threads in the crank is a static pull, and you're not going to damage them that way. It's stronger, as you have engaged *all* of the threads in the crank when it's done that way.
A piece of threaded rod with an external nut to push it on? Fine. The load on the threads in the crank is a static pull, and you're not going to damage them that way. It's stronger, as you have engaged *all* of the threads in the crank when it's done that way.
#16
No, No, No. And No, again. You *never* want to twist in a bolt to pull on a balancer. Not even once.
A piece of threaded rod with an external nut to push it on? Fine. The load on the threads in the crank is a static pull, and you're not going to damage them that way. It's stronger, as you have engaged *all* of the threads in the crank when it's done that way.
A piece of threaded rod with an external nut to push it on? Fine. The load on the threads in the crank is a static pull, and you're not going to damage them that way. It's stronger, as you have engaged *all* of the threads in the crank when it's done that way.
#17
ended up heating the pulley up to 198 and then i went to tractor supply got 2 90 mm long bolts cut the heads off and welded them together and used a few washers and a nut and got it on really easy....i threaded on end into the crank ALL the way first so not to damage the threads.