manzo81maro

yea I would have tried just one solid piece but I don't think the piece I had on hand was long enough

manzo81maro

As long as the stock settings weren't messed with, it shouldn't need adjusting

orthopod

iTrader: (1)

That is exactly what I did I used one piece of hose long enough to not need the bypass. The only thing I used out of the bypass kit was the hose clamps for the radiator end and for the intake manifold end. I threw out the original hoses. I did not want to risk the hose clamps gouging the water pump pulley or having a big kink by routing back behind the throttle body like OP.

As for the high idle you should still loosen the stock throttle bracket screws to make sure that the throttle body linkage is coming all the way down to the stop when you are at idle. Mine was just a touch off it (enough to fit a small feeler gauge in) and it was causing high idle. As soon as I adjusted the bracket so that the cable was tight but allowed the blade to go all the way down to the bump the idle was back to normal. On another note there is definitely a SOTP improvement in throttle response with these POTZ TB, highly recommend them!

z-maro

iTrader: (18)

What length and diameter did you use if you happen to remember? If I remember correctly one end is larger than the other.

orthopod

iTrader: (1)

Will check tomorrow when I'm under the hood and post up.

ssgunny

iTrader: (6)

I used 5/16" hose. A little big for the vent and a little small for the radiator side. I heated up the radiator side in boiling water to work it on.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

I did it on my 01 T/A as these guys have been describing, with one section of hose and zip tying it into position.

FWIW, I had an incident once where that car started rough and ran rough for about a block and half after being parked outside for a few hours on a cold morning. I'm not sure that it was throttle body icing or what, but nothing like that has ever happened on my other cars which have not been bypassed.

Just thought I'd share because you live in Ontario. In CA, not a problem

manzo81maro

Not sure if that would've been the TB icing up...even without the bypass, it would've still had cold coolant until warm up

My SS gets stored over the winter, so shouldn't be an issue in my case...


Probably doesn't make a difference, but that bypass being zip-tied to the intake plumbing gets very hot, and may be heating up the intake tract enough to affect IAT's...
kind of another reason why I decided to route it behind water pump...
like I said as long as that sharp bend holds up, I'll leave it alone

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Uhhhh, no.

ssgunny

iTrader: (6)

There is another hose or two that run below the intake area and along the radiator that I used to secure the bypass. Securing it to the intake would not make sense IMO as you would have to resecure it whenever you removed the lid.

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

ARH makes some nice stuff. If I didn't go kooks TDs I would have bought theirs when I re-did my whole sutup. Shouldn't be giving up to much power with the 1 3/4" unless you go H/C.

jeff2380

iTrader: (4)

Nice Mods, Alex!

Good talking with you last friday.

Jeff

manzo81maro

Yes, they are sweet! I've seen your thread where you picked up a good amount of power going from 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" after H/C...if I ever go H/C or bigger CI LSX, I'll probably do as you did - just bite the bullet and go with a new set of 1 7/8" from them, but for now I figure these won't be hurting anything

Thanks Jeff, same to you! Will probably see you around there again, with the new mods

manzo81maro

Hey guys...I got a chance to install the powerbond UD pulley tonight...overall went well, pretty straight forward, just took a little gruntin'!

First challenge was breaking the stock bolt loose, got the front end up high enough for a breaker bar...left the rear wheels on the ground, put the trans in 4th and parking brake on, this kept the motor from turning:


Used a 3 jaw puller, grabbing the inside hub of the stock balancer:


Just curious, I checked out the weight difference between the stock and powerbond balancer (on a bathroom scale lol): stock wouldn't register a weight, but powerbond puts down 11.2 LBS...weighed both together = 21.6 LBS...so stock balancer is actually 0.8 LBS lighter, for those who were wondering


I filled the keyway of the powerbond with black silicone to prevent any oil from seeping through the crank snout:


I made my own install tool for about $30 using M16 x 2.00 all thread, cut to 10" long, used 3 nuts, a couple washers and cut pipe for a spacer:


Got balancer fully seated, ended up with just over 3mm of crank snout depth:


Torqued pulley down with old bolt to 240 ft-lbs, then installed new GM crank bolt and repeated...went to install the belts, turns out I was sold an A/C belt for a stock pulley so no go on that...for now just running the main serpentine:


Nothin but rain tonight, so no test drive ...but just running it in the garage, I noticed the motor does feel more responsive and quicker revving.

Will update with butt dyno results sometime this week when the weather clears up.

edwardzracing

iTrader: (59)

Damn, do you have a pet Gorilla? How did you manage to get to 240 FT-LBS on that Bolt? That's impressive!

Keep us all updated on how the butt dyno feels. Congrats on getting everything together.

manzo81maro

Lol, that's the grunt part of the job I was talking about, helps if you have a big *** breaker bar...I used a 1/2" torque wrench, which tops out @ 250 ft-lbs, and just gave it hell... I think the other way to do it is torque to 37 ft-lbs, then tighten an additional 140 degrees.


Went for a drive today, for the most part car seems good, pulls a little harder (another humid day though), no affect on charging or cooling...

One problem...it doesn't wanna rev passed 5500rpm - it feels like it falls on it's face or hits the rev limiter...I can also hear a slight ticking sound at this point...

The car has never done that up until today...so I'm sure it has to do with the new pulley or belt...

If the new accessory belt is too short, would it cause this???
I was given an AC Delco 6K755 belt, and with the tensioner turned all the way clockwise, I had to really work it on...

Any ideas?

orthopod

iTrader: (1)

How is the AC and alternator charging after the UDP? See lots of conflicting reports on these on the forums and am wondering if they are worth the cost.

manzo81maro

Pulley has no affect on my A/C or charging, little more effort on the power steering is all...dyno tests have shown about 7-10 rwhp gain from these, motor revs up and down a bit quicker too

manzo81maro

Okay guys, finally got the almighty ARH headers in and got the car dyno tuned:

You all know what the factory hunk-a-junk setup looks like...this car has never seen winter & maybe one day of rain, so everything came off like butter




I know most guys pull the coil packs off, but I managed with them on...my forearms didn't like that:


I used ARP stainless hex header bolts (for 3/8" flange) to keep things purdy:


Also used new factory GM MLS gaskets instead of aftermarket:


Here they are installed:


...passenger side slid right in even with all plugs installed, good clearance to everything, just zip tied the obvious out of the way...driver side was a little different story - they slid in nice with only 2 front plugs out, but just my luck I damaged a couple of the threads in the cyl head for the header bolts - an M8 x 1.25 tap saved my *** big time on that one , I really didn't wanna pull my heads just yet

Here's the full setup in with 3" catted Y - nice tight fit (just the way we like it), everything tucks up nice and has good ground clearance:


After tightening eveything up, I installed the 160* thermostat and the correct A/C belt, started it up, let the PCM figure out what the fack happened to the stock manifolds, checked for leaks, smiled to the new sound and then off I went for the dyno tune...
even on the way to the tune, I noticed a big difference in how the car sounded and ran...has a much nicer sound inside the car and has a nice growl outside, I think the cats and CME catback are preventing any major rasp...definately noticed the increase in HP & TQ through the whole powerband...
the dyno tune was the icing on the cake, car runs a lot smoother but snappier throttle response and even more power...too bad the dyno was lying to me

Here we are @ Champion Motors ready for the dyno tune:



Best pull was 314rwhp & 325 rwtq - I call as the car dyno'd 313/330 stock...the tuner was sure the car is dialed in (12.9:1 AFR) and believes the low #'s were due to the new/faulty brakes on the dynojet...as in, they weren't fully disengaging, so the car had to push through them - may as well have been a mustang dyno...
I think a run down the 1/4 will tell me otherwise, but I'll head back there for another pull when the dyno is back in order...

Next venture: my clutch pedal sticks pretty bad after a couple high rpm pulls, probably due to more heat from the headers...so I'll be doing the drill mod and flush with DOT 4 to see if that cures it....this and installing some UMI LCA relocation brackets will be done before my next track run

Guitar

iTrader: (9)

Don't worry about the dyno numbers...if it pulls good, and feels good, go with it. Take it to another dyno and run it if you're really worried about it, but considering it made LESS, obviously the dyno is off.

Drill mod is good but just go ahead and install a Tick Master! Lol.