FTRA intake air temp
FTRA intake air temp I just ran at the track and my intake air temp was at approx. 90 degrees when the ambient was about 60 degrees. Only at the end of the run did the air temp dropped back down to approximately ambient.
I have a FTRA and a TSP Lid. Any thoughts of suggestions on how to cure this?
I have a FTRA and a TSP Lid. Any thoughts of suggestions on how to cure this?
TECH Regular
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: Boca Raton, FL
The simplest way to fix this is to never actually stop! 
The FTRA or BGRA are not very effective when the car isn't actually moving. When you're in the staging lanes....your heating up everything....including the air coming into the intake.
Next time...disconnect your FTRA and then check your temps at the end of the track. I'll bet they remain right near where you started.
The FTRA or BGRA are not very effective when the car isn't actually moving. When you're in the staging lanes....your heating up everything....including the air coming into the intake.
Next time...disconnect your FTRA and then check your temps at the end of the track. I'll bet they remain right near where you started.
Originally Posted by black_z
Thats why I like the SSRA, the aluminum(?) of the FTRA is more prone to heat-soak.
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
From: Elizabeth, NJ
Originally Posted by 2000WS6Vert
Are you asking me? I've got a BGRA since I've got a WS6.
With a BGRA...you can pick up .1-.2 and 1-2 mph with a BGRA on a good cool night.
With a BGRA...you can pick up .1-.2 and 1-2 mph with a BGRA on a good cool night.
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Originally Posted by smokemup
I just ran at the track and my intake air temp was at approx. 90 degrees when the ambient was about 60 degrees. Only at the end of the run did the air temp dropped back down to approximately ambient.
I have a FTRA and a TSP Lid. Any thoughts of suggestions on how to cure this?
I have a FTRA and a TSP Lid. Any thoughts of suggestions on how to cure this?
SLP CAI has a strong heat pickup when sitting. I
don't know about the FTRA. The stainless is an
inch away from the A/C condenser and the whole
thing gets bugger hot when still. Touch it after
it's been sitting a while idling. Go ahead.
The IAT sensor also gets heat-soaked when you
aren't drawing much air in and aren't seeing any
engine compartment convection. This can give you
bogus IAT readings (true air cooler than sensed).
The plastic of the air duct and the sensor body
gets warmed up and doesn't cool off so fast. I
think this is one reason for the integrated thermistor
on the 85mm Delphi MAFs, truer IAT readings (but
making Delphi throw it in for free, vs a separate
sensor to procure & install, probably means more
than any technical benefit).
90F IAT readings won't affect you (though 90F
true air temp might, somewhat). About 110F the
timing starts to pull back, from what I see in my
tables.
don't know about the FTRA. The stainless is an
inch away from the A/C condenser and the whole
thing gets bugger hot when still. Touch it after
it's been sitting a while idling. Go ahead.
The IAT sensor also gets heat-soaked when you
aren't drawing much air in and aren't seeing any
engine compartment convection. This can give you
bogus IAT readings (true air cooler than sensed).
The plastic of the air duct and the sensor body
gets warmed up and doesn't cool off so fast. I
think this is one reason for the integrated thermistor
on the 85mm Delphi MAFs, truer IAT readings (but
making Delphi throw it in for free, vs a separate
sensor to procure & install, probably means more
than any technical benefit).
90F IAT readings won't affect you (though 90F
true air temp might, somewhat). About 110F the
timing starts to pull back, from what I see in my
tables.
Tech.. Check out http://www.installuniversity.com/ for a good tech article on the FTRA. They recorded an average 11 F drop in IAT temp over stock with the FTRA.
The problem with the SLP CAI is there is no direct routing of air into their duct. It just hangs there. As such, it doesn't really perform very well. The FTRA directly routes a lot of ambient air right into the air box. Not only does that provide an increase in power, it also keeps the IAT temps cool. Most people also see 5-10 % increase in fuel economy so the kit will pay for itself! How many mods can say that?
The problem with the SLP CAI is there is no direct routing of air into their duct. It just hangs there. As such, it doesn't really perform very well. The FTRA directly routes a lot of ambient air right into the air box. Not only does that provide an increase in power, it also keeps the IAT temps cool. Most people also see 5-10 % increase in fuel economy so the kit will pay for itself! How many mods can say that?
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: TX.
Originally Posted by smokemup
I just ran at the track and my intake air temp was at approx. 90 degrees when the ambient was about 60 degrees. Only at the end of the run did the air temp dropped back down to approximately ambient.
I have a FTRA and a TSP Lid. Any thoughts of suggestions on how to cure this?
I have a FTRA and a TSP Lid. Any thoughts of suggestions on how to cure this?
no knock, or any ill affects.
hope that helps.
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: Southgate, MI
I have this same problem. At idle this thing is getting heat soaked, and drawing air from inches off the blacktop. (I built my own huge scoop in SSRA fashion) Ambient air can be 70, but at idle, IAT is reading 90. Can't really think of a solution though. Thought about relocating the IAT. Maybe by cowl or something.
cueball: please explain the 2200 ohms resistor in series.
cueball: please explain the 2200 ohms resistor in series.
Sorry for the late post but I never saw the responses to it.
Fast Toys... No I don't have the seal in place, I bought my kit used and it didn't have the seal. I went to the hardware store and got some but haven't put it on yet. You guys must have run into the heat soak issue before. Any thoughts of a plastic version? Or an insulation kit to retrofit older ones? I'm looking for a good insulation material to try to wrap around the box. Not sure what I'm going to use yet.
Sniper33 ... I didn't do a before and after at the track but IMO this should be the first mod any F body owner should do. Everyone recommends the lid and air filter first. I did and the gain wasn't felt at all. But after the FTRA it made a big difference in power and in fuel economy. Two Thumbs Up in my book for the FTRA.
cueball ... I think putting a resistor in series with the sensor is a bad idea, I would recommend to remove yours.
jimmyblue... Any change in a higher air temp is bad, less dense air means less power. I get your point about the difference should be minimal as shown by the air tables in the computer not compensating for it but I would like to fix it regardless.
Fast Toys... No I don't have the seal in place, I bought my kit used and it didn't have the seal. I went to the hardware store and got some but haven't put it on yet. You guys must have run into the heat soak issue before. Any thoughts of a plastic version? Or an insulation kit to retrofit older ones? I'm looking for a good insulation material to try to wrap around the box. Not sure what I'm going to use yet.
Sniper33 ... I didn't do a before and after at the track but IMO this should be the first mod any F body owner should do. Everyone recommends the lid and air filter first. I did and the gain wasn't felt at all. But after the FTRA it made a big difference in power and in fuel economy. Two Thumbs Up in my book for the FTRA.
cueball ... I think putting a resistor in series with the sensor is a bad idea, I would recommend to remove yours.
jimmyblue... Any change in a higher air temp is bad, less dense air means less power. I get your point about the difference should be minimal as shown by the air tables in the computer not compensating for it but I would like to fix it regardless.
You definitely do need the front rubber seal in place for the best performance. You also should test your whole airbox to ensure it is not leaking off any of the incoming air (can use a leaf blower for this).
Don't worry about heat soak at idle. As SOON as you start moving, your IAT temps will drop down very quickly and you will be back to ambient. The stock intake setup will heatsoak even quicker because it breathes engine heated air (another reason you need the front rubber seal in place). That could be your biggest problem.
Don't worry about heat soak at idle. As SOON as you start moving, your IAT temps will drop down very quickly and you will be back to ambient. The stock intake setup will heatsoak even quicker because it breathes engine heated air (another reason you need the front rubber seal in place). That could be your biggest problem.
I have the front rubber seal in place. The seals I don't have are the back and side ones,
H Adhesive Foam Seal, 15 ¾" Long 1
I Adhesive Foam Seal, 8 ½ " Long 2
As described on the installation instructions.
I will try to do a before and after to see how much of a difference it makes.
BTW... on the data log it took a good amount of time for the IAT to come done.
H Adhesive Foam Seal, 15 ¾" Long 1
I Adhesive Foam Seal, 8 ½ " Long 2
As described on the installation instructions.
I will try to do a before and after to see how much of a difference it makes.
BTW... on the data log it took a good amount of time for the IAT to come done.
Originally Posted by General Z
Any thoughts on relocating the sensor to truly reflect ambient temp, not heat soak, or air temp from 6 inches off of blacktop?
Rather than fooling with relocating the sensor, you can just get the resistor that everyone talks about from radio shack and connect it into the harness.
It shouldn't take that long for the IAT temps to come down once you are moving. Is it possible you had a bad IAT sensor?
It shouldn't take that long for the IAT temps to come down once you are moving. Is it possible you had a bad IAT sensor?
I finally got around to adding the foam strips around the bottom of the factory intake assembly. This still has not cured my heat soak problem. Typically the temps are about 30 degrees hotter than ambient after the engine is warm and sits for awhile (in the staging lanes). The time it take for the intake air to cool off is approximately half of the quarter mile run.
I'm considering getting some heat shielding blanket type material and wrapping it around the FTRA near the radiator side. I think the best would be to make fiberglass copy of the FTRA to prevent the heat soak issue.
I'm considering getting some heat shielding blanket type material and wrapping it around the FTRA near the radiator side. I think the best would be to make fiberglass copy of the FTRA to prevent the heat soak issue.