Finally Spending $ on Kooks LT+TD
10 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 249
Likes: 8
From: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
congrats on the purchase!
as far as exhaust install, it shouldn't be too bad since you went with Kooks, but as it's been said - take your time, get the car up at least a couple feet off the ground, use penetrant where necessary before you begin, new OEM header gaskets, be very careful when re-installing the header bolts, apply anti-seize to header bolts and spark plug threads, but make sure the threads in the cyl head and the header bolt are clean as you can easily damage the threads in the cyl head (trust me lol)...if your picky like me, ARP makes a nice set of stainless header bolts for LS aluminum heads in hex or 12 point (just looks a little prettier than the originals)...I bet that Kooks duals setup is a handful to install, but given the quality, it probably won't be too bad...you get what you pay for!...you'll love your new-found power & sound
as far as exhaust install, it shouldn't be too bad since you went with Kooks, but as it's been said - take your time, get the car up at least a couple feet off the ground, use penetrant where necessary before you begin, new OEM header gaskets, be very careful when re-installing the header bolts, apply anti-seize to header bolts and spark plug threads, but make sure the threads in the cyl head and the header bolt are clean as you can easily damage the threads in the cyl head (trust me lol)...if your picky like me, ARP makes a nice set of stainless header bolts for LS aluminum heads in hex or 12 point (just looks a little prettier than the originals)...I bet that Kooks duals setup is a handful to install, but given the quality, it probably won't be too bad...you get what you pay for!...you'll love your new-found power & sound
I am a big fan of PB blaster and it is always my first choice.
I would caution against using Acetone in any enclosed space. I used to work in a plant that used it by the 50 gal drums to clean parts prior to shipment and I seen one person that had some serious problems with it.
I would caution against using Acetone in any enclosed space. I used to work in a plant that used it by the 50 gal drums to clean parts prior to shipment and I seen one person that had some serious problems with it.
ive had really good results with pb blaster, but if liquid wrench tested better, ill probably give them a try on my next purchase. Ive used liquid wrench for chain lubes and degreasers with no problem either.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
So what is the best way to clean the head threads? I was thinking penetrant and then a rolled up paper towel/compressed air to dry it out. Last thing I want to do is hydrolock the bolt and crack the head.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
I got the Founders poly/rod PHB and relocation kit installed tonight. Took me longer than expected but that was because I was making stupid mistakes. I can definitely tell a difference in how the car drives now, the rear end seems more "firm" and it may have been the dew on the road from driving at 1 am in the morning but I was really able to light the tires up. Anyway...I'll be installing the DSL soon and then hopefully get to the headers/duals the first week of Sept.
Also, I'm not sure how hard PHB bolts usually are to get out but I sprayed everything down with the ATF/Acetone solution 30 minutes before starting and all of them came out with minimal effort.
I'll be sure to pick up some brake cleaner and a thread cleaner before I start.
Thanks, I'm taking a whole weeks vacation to work on this so I can go nice and slow. I have enough trouble with the simple stuff so this will definitely be a challenge....I'm ready for it though, I'm sure I'll f*** a few things up but I'm just trying to keep that to a minimum.
Also, I'm not sure how hard PHB bolts usually are to get out but I sprayed everything down with the ATF/Acetone solution 30 minutes before starting and all of them came out with minimal effort.
compressed air & brake clean should get them clean...but to be sure, you can run through each hole with a M8 x 1.25 tap/thread cleaner
congrats on the purchase!
as far as exhaust install, it shouldn't be too bad since you went with Kooks, but as it's been said - take your time, get the car up at least a couple feet off the ground, use penetrant where necessary before you begin, new OEM header gaskets, be very careful when re-installing the header bolts, apply anti-seize to header bolts and spark plug threads, but make sure the threads in the cyl head and the header bolt are clean as you can easily damage the threads in the cyl head (trust me lol)...if your picky like me, ARP makes a nice set of stainless header bolts for LS aluminum heads in hex or 12 point (just looks a little prettier than the originals)...I bet that Kooks duals setup is a handful to install, but given the quality, it probably won't be too bad...you get what you pay for!...you'll love your new-found power & sound
as far as exhaust install, it shouldn't be too bad since you went with Kooks, but as it's been said - take your time, get the car up at least a couple feet off the ground, use penetrant where necessary before you begin, new OEM header gaskets, be very careful when re-installing the header bolts, apply anti-seize to header bolts and spark plug threads, but make sure the threads in the cyl head and the header bolt are clean as you can easily damage the threads in the cyl head (trust me lol)...if your picky like me, ARP makes a nice set of stainless header bolts for LS aluminum heads in hex or 12 point (just looks a little prettier than the originals)...I bet that Kooks duals setup is a handful to install, but given the quality, it probably won't be too bad...you get what you pay for!...you'll love your new-found power & sound
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
Problem So I got under the car to take a look at possibly putting the drive shaft safety loop on today and I might have a problem. On the BMR instructions it says to:
Well...I don't have a "factory brace", I'm assuming the previous owner must have removed it and therefore I also don't have the bolts. Buying the bolts is no problem but I'm trying to figure out the exact mounting location. I took some pictures of two areas that look like they might be the mounting locations.
Can someone please tell me which bolts I will need to order and also if the pictures below are the correct mounting location? Thanks!
2.Remove all 4 bolts that attach the factory brace and remove the brace.
Can someone please tell me which bolts I will need to order and also if the pictures below are the correct mounting location? Thanks!
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Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
I ordered 4 - M8-1.25 x 30mm Grade 10.9 Flange bolts from Fastenal so hopefully that will be what I need to attach the drive shaft safety loop.
$120 seems a bit steep for header studs, is it really worth it?
can't help you on the brace problem, but I highly recommend ARP SS header studs for when you install the headers to the heads.
10 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 249
Likes: 8
From: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,343
Likes: 8
From: Katy, TX
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
I wouldn't spend that much on header bolts, seems crazy to me.
I have the same exhaust and car color as you! You will love this exhaust, the install is kind of hard, but getting it to fit perfect is the only 'pain'.
As for the safety loop....you don't NEED one so I wouldn't put it on. Return that BMR piece and buy some sub frame connectors.
I have the same exhaust and car color as you! You will love this exhaust, the install is kind of hard, but getting it to fit perfect is the only 'pain'.
As for the safety loop....you don't NEED one so I wouldn't put it on. Return that BMR piece and buy some sub frame connectors.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
Thanks for the information guys but I think I'm just going to stick with the stock bolts for now and just make sure everything is very clean.
Got the DSL installed today. Ended up having to grind off a plate that was welded over top of the tunnel brace mount. I'm guessing the previous owner must have had weld-in SFCs/DSL. Also, the flange bolts I orderd for the DSL worked perfectly with the addition of a washer.
In a slightly unrelated note, I installed Koni Shocks/Strano Springs that I bought used from a member on here. It seems a lot lower to me so I'll be sure to let everyone know how good the Kooks fit with a lowered car.
Motor mount installation will begin tomorrow now that I got my other car back. Sister's car was wrecked and she was my borrowing my usual DD and so I couldn't start because of that.
Video of my current Magnaflow catback for comparison once I get everything on:
Good to hear, I can't wait to start putting it on! I've got a whole list of suspension/chassis parts I'm looking at for my next project so I'll add SFCs for sure.
Got the DSL installed today. Ended up having to grind off a plate that was welded over top of the tunnel brace mount. I'm guessing the previous owner must have had weld-in SFCs/DSL. Also, the flange bolts I orderd for the DSL worked perfectly with the addition of a washer.
In a slightly unrelated note, I installed Koni Shocks/Strano Springs that I bought used from a member on here. It seems a lot lower to me so I'll be sure to let everyone know how good the Kooks fit with a lowered car.
Motor mount installation will begin tomorrow now that I got my other car back. Sister's car was wrecked and she was my borrowing my usual DD and so I couldn't start because of that.
Video of my current Magnaflow catback for comparison once I get everything on:
I wouldn't spend that much on header bolts, seems crazy to me.
I have the same exhaust and car color as you! You will love this exhaust, the install is kind of hard, but getting it to fit perfect is the only 'pain'.
As for the safety loop....you don't NEED one so I wouldn't put it on. Return that BMR piece and buy some sub frame connectors.
I have the same exhaust and car color as you! You will love this exhaust, the install is kind of hard, but getting it to fit perfect is the only 'pain'.
As for the safety loop....you don't NEED one so I wouldn't put it on. Return that BMR piece and buy some sub frame connectors.
Last edited by s7ven; Aug 28, 2013 at 08:36 PM.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
Thanks for the information guys but I think I'm just going to stick with the stock bolts for now and just make sure everything is very clean.
Got the DSL installed today. Ended up having to grind off a plate that was welded over top of the tunnel brace mount. I'm guessing the previous owner must have had weld-in SFCs/DSL. Also, the flange bolts I orderd for the DSL worked perfectly with the addition of a washer.
In a slightly unrelated note, I installed Koni Shocks/Strano Springs that I bought used from a member on here. It seems a lot lower to me so I'll be sure to let everyone know how good the Kooks fit with a lowered car.
Got the DSL installed today. Ended up having to grind off a plate that was welded over top of the tunnel brace mount. I'm guessing the previous owner must have had weld-in SFCs/DSL. Also, the flange bolts I orderd for the DSL worked perfectly with the addition of a washer.
In a slightly unrelated note, I installed Koni Shocks/Strano Springs that I bought used from a member on here. It seems a lot lower to me so I'll be sure to let everyone know how good the Kooks fit with a lowered car.
I also have a lowered TA. So clearance was always a concern of mine. Hope you keep us posted because this will be very helpful to me. My car is lowered enough that once the front end is on jack stands I gotta put my jack under the car and jack up the rear from the axle. Had to buy a really low profile jack with an extended base.
Really looking forward to your finished project and or the bumps in the road.
GL
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
Phew....what a killer past few days. Yesterday I got my exhaust off back to the Y-Pipe and today I put in new motor mounts. You guys weren't kidding when you said motor mounts are a bitch....thought I was going to die. I got it done with a walkthrough I found on here, the scissor jack trick worked great. I'm hoping it's all down hill from here...going to install the headers and re-assemble the engine bay stuff tomorrow.
Good news, the only thing I've broken so far (that I know of) is a coolant sensor.
Good news, the only thing I've broken so far (that I know of) is a coolant sensor.
Just take your time with it and take breaks when needed. I've tried to rush a frustrating project on my car, didn't work too well. These cars can be stubborn to work on sometimes but if you can do mounts yiu can do the exhaust.
In for a video.
Question about the kooks system, do they come with a muffler or is it going to be straight pipe?
In for a video.
Question about the kooks system, do they come with a muffler or is it going to be straight pipe?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
Got the headers, spark plugs, and wires installed today. Was a bitch but not nearly as bad as the motor mounts. I couldn't get a torque wrench on some of the header bolts so I kinda did a guestimate of what 18 ft lbs. would be. I'll post my video of open Kooks headers when I finally get it uploaded to Youtube. Going to try and get the Kook's True duals installed either tomorrow or Tuesday...I need a break.
Question, is it normal for the headers to smoke a little on first start up? I made sure there was no wires or anything touching the headers but I just wanted to make sure it wasn't my gaskets that were leaking. Kind of a funky oil burning smell.
Question, is it normal for the headers to smoke a little on first start up? I made sure there was no wires or anything touching the headers but I just wanted to make sure it wasn't my gaskets that were leaking. Kind of a funky oil burning smell.