Cutout Install - A somewhat different approach
If you remove them, you will gain power no matter if you have the stock cam or not. Most people use cats to kill rasp or for emission purposes.If you do not need the cats, ditch them. Take the AIR system off too, if you remove the cats.
I don't know where you got that from, but cats are useless unless you need them for emissions
If you remove them, you will gain power no matter if you have the stock cam or not. Most people use cats to kill rasp or for emission purposes.If you do not need the cats, ditch them. Take the AIR system off too, if you remove the cats.
Anyway, I had a lot of trouble finding a place to mount the switch. But I wanted to find a place that I wouldn't have to cut/modify the interior. So I ran the wires underneath the passenger seat, up through the center console, and then mounted the switch right next to where the plug for the pcm is. I just took a piece of the padded 3m double sided tape and stuck it up there (if you look, there is a flat space, and it looks pretty good). I just don't like how the switch is lit up all the time. It works for me though. I wired it in with the hot wire for TCS so it comes on with the ignition.
I would post a picture, but I'm at college and don't have a digital camera (yet). If you really want to see it, I can take a picture next time I go home. But there are probably better permanent mounting options.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I really wish I'd put mine there. Maybe when I get around to redoing it I'll try that. I've got something that rattles, it sounds like the QTP cutout. wheels the axle is well above the outlet. I've thought
about adding a stubby turndown.
Any thoughts on RWHP gain in this location vs. a cutout in the I pipe.
just a little farther back.....
Strange thing is...SOTP or Butt Dyno...I feel like it's faster with it closed than open...but we'll see what happens after a tune and when I take it to a real dyno.
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