Be-Cool Package
Unless you guys are running aftermarket coolant temp sensors you should not be judging the 99-02 temp gauge on the dash except when it goes over half way on the needle to say its hot. It's not an exact reading
Him saying #8 is hot led me to believe his temp sensor is in that particular rear passenger port.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
$1400 is outrageous for solving a problem that isnt even a problem. These cars run 225 in the summer. Its NORMAL!! You arent overheating. However I realize that you may like a little bit more of a comfort zone. There are a hell of a lot cheaper ways to get it. 1. Lower thermostat will help along with matching fan settings in the tune, 2. An LT1 radiator, it thicker then the LS1 version, basically drops right in, and won't cost an arm and a leg, 3. An aluminum radiator off ebay for $150, its a direct drop in. Your fans arent coming on until well over 200 so you need to address that first if you are wanting to run 190-200 most of the time.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 309
Likes: 1
So this thread got a little messy, let's start over here.
I have two coolant temp sensors. The factory one in #1 and an aftermarket autometer one in #8 which is a known good.
If I don't turn the heat on #8 will go over 230, it was still climbing when I cranked up the heat.
Over 230F is too hot for me idling in traffic.
Both fans work and turn on.
Radiator is free of debris.
Waterpump was recently replaced with a stock AZ/O'reilly piece. Along with a thermostat.
I have steam vent lines running to the new water pump that minimize the ability for air to accumulate.
My original question was
"Will a radiator this heavy duty over cool the engine? I don't want to get colder than 190 at cruise, but I would like to maintain the 190 in traffic."
Nobody has successfully answered the question but my research has let me to believe that if you have a large radiator you want a higher thermostat and that if your radiator does indeed start to get your temps too low your higher degree thermostat (we'll say 180) will start to close which increases your coolant tempts until it opens.
So, It's looking like it won't be able to over cool the engine as long as I size the thermostat correctly.
Before buying the rad/fan from be-cool I picked up an evans water pump that equalizes coolant to both sides of the engine across all RPM bands. So, we'll see if that helps out if not I'll probably toss in the be-cool kit as spending extra money is worth me not spending the extra time. <----
I have two coolant temp sensors. The factory one in #1 and an aftermarket autometer one in #8 which is a known good.
If I don't turn the heat on #8 will go over 230, it was still climbing when I cranked up the heat.
Over 230F is too hot for me idling in traffic.
Both fans work and turn on.
Radiator is free of debris.
Waterpump was recently replaced with a stock AZ/O'reilly piece. Along with a thermostat.
I have steam vent lines running to the new water pump that minimize the ability for air to accumulate.
My original question was
"Will a radiator this heavy duty over cool the engine? I don't want to get colder than 190 at cruise, but I would like to maintain the 190 in traffic."
Nobody has successfully answered the question but my research has let me to believe that if you have a large radiator you want a higher thermostat and that if your radiator does indeed start to get your temps too low your higher degree thermostat (we'll say 180) will start to close which increases your coolant tempts until it opens.
So, It's looking like it won't be able to over cool the engine as long as I size the thermostat correctly.
Before buying the rad/fan from be-cool I picked up an evans water pump that equalizes coolant to both sides of the engine across all RPM bands. So, we'll see if that helps out if not I'll probably toss in the be-cool kit as spending extra money is worth me not spending the extra time. <----
Your questions have been answered in a few different ways throughout this thread.
In post 5, you changed the thread to "what aftermarket fans is everyone running".
You cannot "overcool" an engine unless the thermostat is bad. The thermostat is what controls the temperature of the coolant in the engine. If the radiator is too small, clogged or doesn't have enough air being blown through it, the thermostat will stay open but the engine won't get any cooler.
Your radiator may LOOK CLEAN outside but the tubes may be clogged.
I would suggest you start with a new LT1 radiator, a new 180 degree thermostat and a tune to get the fans on at 180 degrees.
In post 5, you changed the thread to "what aftermarket fans is everyone running".
You cannot "overcool" an engine unless the thermostat is bad. The thermostat is what controls the temperature of the coolant in the engine. If the radiator is too small, clogged or doesn't have enough air being blown through it, the thermostat will stay open but the engine won't get any cooler.
Your radiator may LOOK CLEAN outside but the tubes may be clogged.
I would suggest you start with a new LT1 radiator, a new 180 degree thermostat and a tune to get the fans on at 180 degrees.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 309
Likes: 1
Well, pulled the radiator and got a look at the condensor/radiator when I installed the Evans pump.
After 13 years and 80K they looked fine from the outside but get them in the sun and there was massive blockages for air passage on both.
Straightened a bunch of fins and took my hose and compressed air to them and reinstalled with the evans pump.
Changes my fan 1 temp to turn ON at 210 and off at 206, then fan 2 ON at 215 and OFF and 210.
#1 now sits at 210 idling in hot traffic, and #8 sits at 215 idling in hot traffic and only uses fan 1 as that is the temp sensor that the computer sees. With AC on it runs a bit cooler as both fans kick on idling, but I'm cool with that. (no pun intended)
No data on WOT/Track performance of the EVANS pump, i'll update when I go, but don't have a baseline so it's not going to be overly valuable.
After 13 years and 80K they looked fine from the outside but get them in the sun and there was massive blockages for air passage on both.
Straightened a bunch of fins and took my hose and compressed air to them and reinstalled with the evans pump.
Changes my fan 1 temp to turn ON at 210 and off at 206, then fan 2 ON at 215 and OFF and 210.
#1 now sits at 210 idling in hot traffic, and #8 sits at 215 idling in hot traffic and only uses fan 1 as that is the temp sensor that the computer sees. With AC on it runs a bit cooler as both fans kick on idling, but I'm cool with that. (no pun intended)
No data on WOT/Track performance of the EVANS pump, i'll update when I go, but don't have a baseline so it's not going to be overly valuable.
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