Starter needs shims!? Need help
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 8
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Starter needs shims!? Need help K here's the deal I have been back and forth to the parts store tried three different starters and get the same horrible results. Get my new starter wired up, purchased two new bolts and start tightening it get it all torqued hook up battery and go to start. I have the car in neutral and when I turn the key I either get a loud thud like the be Dix on the starter is slamming into the flywheel or a spinning whining noise like the teeth aren't catching. The reason I had to replace the starter is because my wife took the car out for a drive and it started to rain and then it flooded. She tried to pull off of what she the was the shoulder of the road but was actually a curb and drove up it. The car died and would not start. She got it towed home and when I got back from overseas I saw that the starter itself was broke and a piece of the block chipped off right where the long starter bolt threads in. I re welded that piece on and the bolt threads in just fine. Put the new starter in and bam same issue starter will not engage and turn the motor over. The engine is not seized I can turn the motor over by spinning the crank pulley with a socket. I'm at a loss for this. Do I need to shim it because it says shims are not required and I bought a set and drilled them to make the holes line up. With the starter installed and no shims installed the starter looks cocked or tilted downwards in the front where it meets the flywheel and the back where the wires are is tilted up towards the top of the motor so it has an angle. I can't get a picture because this new starter just broke the bracket broke right off like the original one did. Any suggestions or input will be great.
K here's the deal I have been back and forth to the parts store tried three different starters and get the same horrible results. Get my new starter wired up, purchased two new bolts and start tightening it get it all torqued hook up battery and go to start. I have the car in neutral and when I turn the key I either get a loud thud like the be Dix on the starter is slamming into the flywheel or a spinning whining noise like the teeth aren't catching. The reason I had to replace the starter is because my wife took the car out for a drive and it started to rain and then it flooded. She tried to pull off of what she the was the shoulder of the road but was actually a curb and drove up it. The car died and would not start. She got it towed home and when I got back from overseas I saw that the starter itself was broke and a piece of the block chipped off right where the long starter bolt threads in. I re welded that piece on and the bolt threads in just fine. Put the new starter in and bam same issue starter will not engage and turn the motor over. The engine is not seized I can turn the motor over by spinning the crank pulley with a socket. I'm at a loss for this. Do I need to shim it because it says shims are not required and I bought a set and drilled them to make the holes line up. With the starter installed and no shims installed the starter looks cocked or tilted downwards in the front where it meets the flywheel and the back where the wires are is tilted up towards the top of the motor so it has an angle. I can't get a picture because this new starter just broke the bracket broke right off like the original one did. Any suggestions or input will be great.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
The shim I'm shopping will adjust the angle to where it is level. Just tired of these starters breaking at that little bracket built into it. And I spun the fly wheel all the way around and saw now damage to it. Without pull the tranny out to gain full access to the flywheel I can't fully see it. If those shim and new starter coming in on Tuesday doesn't work then I'll be pulling the tranny to check the flywheel. I need a new clutch anyways so better time then ever I guess. Is was my daily driver but I got a truck because I couldn't resolve the issue.
Bump. I'm having the same issue. 2 new starters both whine. Bolt holes are not stripped. Torqued to 37 ft lbs. Only difference is these are the truck starters with the 2 long bolts. My stock one with long bolt and short bolt doesn't make noise, so it's definitely the starters or how they mount up. What did you do to fix it?
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Bump. I'm having the same issue. 2 new starters both whine. Bolt holes are not stripped. Torqued to 37 ft lbs. Only difference is these are the truck starters with the 2 long bolts. My stock one with long bolt and short bolt doesn't make noise, so it's definitely the starters or how they mount up. What did you do to fix it?
Check: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ent-4l60e.html
Last edited by mk3cn4; Jul 25, 2018 at 07:27 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo Just a suggestion, assuming you have a car LS1 engine for example, I *think* some of the truck engines like the LQ4 truck engines have their flexplate back further than LS1 motors, 2001+ LQ4's I think had a spacer you could remove, prior to that the crank was longer. I guess my point is that a "truck starter" as you describe "might" be set up for deeper flexplate. I'd say don't use a truck starter if this is what is happening. Not sure if it's the whole flexplate moved back or just the dip in the flexplate for the TC but here is some info, might be your problem:
Check: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ent-4l60e.html
Check: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ent-4l60e.html