knight_rider

Hello guys,

I just found out one of my motor mounts are shot so I have to replace them. I haven't done it before, just looking for some insight if its an easy job to do myself or should I take it to a shop? I have a 2000 T/A WS6 with about 120k miles on it.

Thanks...

NVUSZ28

iTrader: (5)

On the driver side, you'll have to remove the Alternator in order to get the bolt out. That's about it on the insight. Everything else should be cake.

Fry_

I had to take my AC compressor and bracket off on the passenger side and alternator off on the driver side. I didn't disconnect them just moved them out of the way, I think I left them resting one the sway bar. I also took the starter and dip stick off, but it may be possible to leave them on. I was doing this with the stock manifolds and drivers side cat still on the car and I had to jack the motor up till the drivers side exhaust flange hit the floor. If you leave the manifolds or headers on you'll have to remove the frame stands also, if you don't own a 15mm ratchet wrench I'd suggest buying one or you'll spend an hour getting one of the drivers side frame stand bolts out. Also when I took my starter off the stud for the starter relay wire broke off of the solenoid and I had to buy a new solenoid off ebay. It's not a easy job and you may want to give yourself an entire weekend so you can take plenty of breaks and to give you time for that one bolt that just wont come out, I had one bolt that just wouldn't come out that took a mid length 6pt socket and just the right combo of adapters and extensions so the back of my ratchet was wedged against the K-member so I could twist it out without rounding off the bolt. I think it took me 6hr's for that one bolt, it came out with the first 2 threads of the block still in the bolt.

c7monster

I replaced mine. it wasnt that difficult

omarrakeen

iTrader: (2)

make sure you get poly engine mounts. its a lot easier if your car is stock. i had to take mine to the shop as i couldnt reach with the long tubes from underneath.

cyberkill

Check the sticky up top. I wrote a write up a few years ago on how to replace MM and headers, but you just need to follow the MM part.

Macs98Z

iTrader: (16)

Follow this guy's write up here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...otsa-pics.html His tip on the passenger side motor mount and using the spare tire jack will literally save you hours. Worked like a charm for me and made the whole process very simple compared to what I was expecting with the horror stories you hear about. Just take your time and remove everything the write ups say. There's a reason for it.

Fry_

A lot of that will be helpful but if the OP is doing this with the manifolds still on it's a hole different can of worms. I'd say if the OP can swing it he should buy some LT headers and a ORY because I can tell you from experience doing it with the manifolds on is a major pain and you'll have to do 80% of the job of installing them to get the MM's out.

knight_rider

Thanks for the info guys. FYI: Everything in my car is still stock (no headers, just stock manifolds) AND I'll be replacing it with the original rubber ones. Will that be making a difference or make things easier?

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I didn't have any accessories on my engine when I reinstalled with Prothane poly mounts. Getting them to line back up once you remove the motor is a giant pain in the ***.

I would recommend doing one side at a time and loosening the pedastals from the k-member so you can adjust. I found my pedastals had slightly warped over time and when I added the poly mounts, nothing lined up.