Replacing stock MAF?
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Replacing stock MAF? I am looking to what options I have to replace the factory MAF. Some people say its not a restriction, some suggest the z06 or truck maf (85mm) and then there is the TSP 100mm maf. Car is a heads/cam/fast 92/92, 1 7/8" headers and 3" true duals. I suppose speed density would be an option as well. Any thoughts?
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Not to hijack your thread but I see you run AI heads and a BTR 4 cam. Can I ask what kind of rwhp numbers you made? Also, did you have P2V clearance issues and what length pushrod do you run? We have a bolt-on C5 and are going to go max-effort H/C/I also.
Appreciate it!
Scott
Appreciate it!
Scott
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Here you go Tar Heel:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...rst-start.html
There is a link in that thread to dyno numbers, but the link doesn't work and I can't find it under the OP's statistics. I'm sure he'll chime in though.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...rst-start.html
There is a link in that thread to dyno numbers, but the link doesn't work and I can't find it under the OP's statistics. I'm sure he'll chime in though.
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Forget the SD Tuning. A 85mm Maf should work good on that setup, but you can make a 100mm maf with many available parts these days or find someones used tsp 100mm maf. If you go the 100mm route make sure you have a good honeycomb screen insert so you get good data. SD isn't worth it and won't account for weather changes like the MAF will. You can pick up 7rwhp today and lose 10 tomorrow.
Maybe if the car gets driven year round, but that's a huge misconception when it comes to talking about SD tunes. In closed loop, you're still utilizing the o2 sensors which will compensate for a lot of that. If the tuner is worth a ****, you wouldn't be able to tell a difference between a MAF tune, an open loop SD tune, or a closed loop SD tune.
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I never got finished dyno numbers due to driveshaft problems. They aborted the run at 5900. Made 421 at 5900, local heartbreaker mustang dyno. Would probably crack 450 at peak. I'm shifting at 6600. No p2v problems, heads are at 63cc. Car is strictly a spring thru fall car. I'm just looking to squeeze out every last ounce right now. But trapping 123 on shakedown runs at 3700 raceweight is pretty good to be. Dyno numbers are thru a heavy clutch, 12bolt, drag radials, steel drive shaft etc.
Since this is a max effort car that your drive only during a set temperature range and are trying to get the best ET's/trap speeds, then it behooves you to go the SD route. I am running a SD tune, and it drives great. I too only drive my car during the spring through fall months. Ask the good Dr. Whigham on here how well a SD tune can drive when done right.
Last edited by Rise of the Phoenix; Jul 23, 2014 at 09:39 PM.
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I never got finished dyno numbers due to driveshaft problems. They aborted the run at 5900. Made 421 at 5900, local heartbreaker mustang dyno. Would probably crack 450 at peak. I'm shifting at 6600. No p2v problems, heads are at 63cc. Car is strictly a spring thru fall car. I'm just looking to squeeze out every last ounce right now. But trapping 123 on shakedown runs at 3700 raceweight is pretty good to be. Dyno numbers are thru a heavy clutch, 12bolt, drag radials, steel drive shaft etc.
Scott
Forget the SD Tuning. A 85mm Maf should work good on that setup, but you can make a 100mm maf with many available parts these days or find someones used tsp 100mm maf. If you go the 100mm route make sure you have a good honeycomb screen insert so you get good data. SD isn't worth it and won't account for weather changes like the MAF will. You can pick up 7rwhp today and lose 10 tomorrow.
What? SD has nothing to do with temps and everything to do with O2's. Once she's dialed in she's dialed in. I drove my car in 110 degree heat and 24 degree cold... No difference. ALTITUDE changes are a different story, but this was never a car destined for a cross country tip.
As stated, huge misconception. You're aware a lot of the new MOPAR's are SD from the factory...?
I personally can't wait to ditch my 85mm 04 MAF (Z06... Same) and run SD
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Yes I did use 7.400. I need to get some 7.350s I believe, the preload was a bit higher than Brian Tooley suggested on his lifters (just a touch over). Ill remeasure before I try and get some real numbers in the fall air.
Your setup sounds stout, I would def be looking towards a bigger MAF or SD in your case. My car didn't pick up anything with the switch but I'm also making a lot less power than you.
For your goals with the car, if you have a good tuner SD will probably be your best bet. If not you can always add a maf back later and the SD tune will make a solid base for a new MAF tune as well.
For your goals with the car, if you have a good tuner SD will probably be your best bet. If not you can always add a maf back later and the SD tune will make a solid base for a new MAF tune as well.
