Cammed LS1 not as fast as it use to be
Cammed LS1 not as fast as it use to be I have a 91 z28 with a LS1, VRX5, longtubes, T56 and 4:10 gears.
At one time the car pulled amazing. I couldn't hook at all rolling at the top of first gear or even from a roll in second gear. And when it did get traction it pulled hard.
Now the car is still quick, but does not pull like it use to. I can no longer break traction in first gear, and especially not second gear. It no longer pulls really hard. However, every now and then, 1 out of maybe 30 pulls, it will pull like it use to.
I have a check engine light on for clutch switch, and that is all.
All my sensors seem to be plugged in, and it seems I have good connections everywhere. What could this be?
Could a bad knock sensor do this without throwing a the check engine light on?
At one time the car pulled amazing. I couldn't hook at all rolling at the top of first gear or even from a roll in second gear. And when it did get traction it pulled hard.
Now the car is still quick, but does not pull like it use to. I can no longer break traction in first gear, and especially not second gear. It no longer pulls really hard. However, every now and then, 1 out of maybe 30 pulls, it will pull like it use to.
I have a check engine light on for clutch switch, and that is all.
All my sensors seem to be plugged in, and it seems I have good connections everywhere. What could this be?
Could a bad knock sensor do this without throwing a the check engine light on?
Last edited by LSX Man; Aug 31, 2014 at 09:18 PM.
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Nope, no slipping. It spins tires when clutch is popped.
The motor had 70K miles on it, but I tore it down and installed new rings, bearings, gaskets, pushrods and springs along with the cam. This was three thousand miles ago.
The motor had 70K miles on it, but I tore it down and installed new rings, bearings, gaskets, pushrods and springs along with the cam. This was three thousand miles ago.
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maybe something wasnt put back together correctly or overlooked.
You need a scanner that will datastream. Monitor the MAF sensor, fuel trims, and knock retard. A fuel pressure test would be a good idea also. Lots of non-mechanical things can cause lack of power and still not trigger a DTC.
this is a longshot but after my heads & cam install i was throwing a low manifold air pressure or vaccum code. it was a tiny broken wire off the back of the intake sensor to the computer. goodluck!
Outside of making sure all the plugs and wires look good and maybe cleaning the MAF sensor you are going to need some more insight as to what's going on to start looking.
Get or borrow something that will let you scan and also a wideband.
Ideally you want to see timing is 24-28* and air/fuel is 12.5-12.9 at WOT. You will also be able to see if it's pulling timing due to knock sensors or something like that.
Get or borrow something that will let you scan and also a wideband.
Ideally you want to see timing is 24-28* and air/fuel is 12.5-12.9 at WOT. You will also be able to see if it's pulling timing due to knock sensors or something like that.
Not too sure if the problem started after the clutch install. I know the first time I drove it with the new clutch the car ran like a bat out of hell.
Tune is a mail order. I took the computer to Vengeance Racing, and their tuner tuned it. It is their cam, so I feel as if he provided a mail order tune better than anyone else could.
Could that be it? I know I can squeeze alot more power out with a real tune. But the problem seems to be intermediate.
Tune is a mail order. I took the computer to Vengeance Racing, and their tuner tuned it. It is their cam, so I feel as if he provided a mail order tune better than anyone else could.
Could that be it? I know I can squeeze alot more power out with a real tune. But the problem seems to be intermediate.
If it was running well and now it's not, it's not the tune. It is either mechanical, electrical, or maybe a flaw in your perception.
Traction is relative to a lot of things other than power.
Traction is relative to a lot of things other than power.