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Kooks Racing Headers with Factory LS1 Intake

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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 04:47 PM
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Default Kooks Racing Headers with Factory LS1 Intake

So I recently bought some Kooks 1 7/8 Headers. I got them and it turns out they were Racing headers. In the long run this is probably for the best, as I'll eventually (not the near future) upgrade to a Fast Intake. However, right now I the factory LS1 Intake in my 02 WS6 and thus have emission components and no where to connect them.

Is there a mod for getting rid of these emissions components on my intake that'll allow me to run this setup without throwing a code?

Or am I screw and will need to either get the regular headers or upgrade my intake???

Thanks in advanced!!!
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 04:57 PM
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Remove all the emissions crap, and on top of the intake ppl have installed a expandable plug and you screw it in. And you can tune the lights the out from a local tuner.
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 05:11 PM
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Either way you'r going to get a SES light. I've heard of people buying the correct size steel freeze plug and just tapping it into place.
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 06:55 PM
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Thanks. Any chance there's a write up on removing all the emissions crap that y'all could point me to?
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 09:45 PM
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I thought the 02's had the ls6 intake, which is lacking the egr valve hanging down through the top of the intake, just behind the throttle body.
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jlcustomz
I thought the 02's had the ls6 intake, which is lacking the egr valve hanging down through the top of the intake, just behind the throttle body.
LOL your right, I just read stock LS1 intake and didn't even think about it.
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Fry_
LOL your right, I just read stock LS1 intake and didn't even think about it.
X2 OP you then have a ls6 intake which is a upgrade. No freeze up or expandable plug needed.
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 09:42 AM
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That's awesome! Thanks!!! After a little research, I just need to remove a pump, some air hose, and annoying egr thingamagiga, and put a vacum cap on the back of my intake and I'm GTG correct? Oh and a tune.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...air-tubes.html
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Old Oct 21, 2014 | 12:27 AM
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That is correct...except the part about egr. 01-02 cars did not have egr. You need to remove the A.I.R injection system, then get a tune.
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Old Oct 21, 2014 | 08:57 AM
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Pretty easy work -- and you'll like the much cleaner appearance under the hood
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Old Oct 21, 2014 | 09:25 AM
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So I won't have to cap off a valve behind my intake?
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Old Oct 21, 2014 | 10:33 AM
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You'll just need a vacuum cap for the top of the "T" where all the smaller vacuum lines come together; it simply blocks the connection for the AIR system but retains the connection to the back of the manifold and to the HVAC system.
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Old Oct 21, 2014 | 04:17 PM
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Thanks!
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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 06:03 AM
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I went to a parts store and bought a small pack of vacuum plugs and fit one when I did my Kooks setup last month. Also, now would be a great time to change plugs and wires.
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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 11:21 AM
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And a even better time to change your motor mounts. Seriously it should almost be considered mandatory so install poly MM's when you install headers for 2 reasons, it's a big pain in the *** job thats not so bad when everything is already torn apart for the header install, and stock 12yr old rubber one's will probably flex enough that you header collector or y pipe will bang on the floor pan.
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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Fry_
And a even better time to change your motor mounts. Seriously it should almost be considered mandatory so install poly MM's when you install headers for 2 reasons, it's a big pain in the *** job thats not so bad when everything is already torn apart for the header install, and stock 12yr old rubber one's will probably flex enough that you header collector or y pipe will bang on the floor pan.


Definitely is a must! Either Polys or Solids should go in...I have had 4 F-bodies and skipped doing motor mounts on 1 while installing QTP LTs...never again, y-pipe banged the floor pan like a sailor banging a Thai hooker....
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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Fry_
And a even better time to change your motor mounts. Seriously it should almost be considered mandatory so install poly MM's when you install headers for 2 reasons, it's a big pain in the *** job thats not so bad when everything is already torn apart for the header install, and stock 12yr old rubber one's will probably flex enough that you header collector or y pipe will bang on the floor pan.
Snagged a pair of solid billet mounts in the classifieds here. Thanks!
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 07:41 AM
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Default Should have left the motor mounts alone



So I was almost done with these mods. I was 24 hrs from having my car back on the road. All I needed to do was get the passenger side mount lined up and bolt a few more things back up.

In this process me and a buddy (after a couple hours of trying) decided to loosen the motor mount that attaches to the subframe. Did this on the other side and it worked great other than the one bolt that was a PITA to get back in.

In this process I snapped the lower front bolt holding the mount to the subframe. I have about 1/8" to 1/4" of a stud sticking out of the subframe. Oh did I mention I don't have the tools needed to remove the subframe (cherry picker, lift plate).

I'm thinking about drilling a hole in the subframe from underneath just below the bolt to get to the stud so I can drill it out. Any thoughts?

Oh and I should add that the mounts looked to be in pretty good shape for a 50k car let alone my 100k car.
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