Since German Castrol is gone.... (IT'S NOT!!)
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
From: unknown
On the other side of the border I pay $10.50 a quart.
I have a ton of buddies that use the AMS oil for their sleds to though, so I went in as a dealer (but I don't actively go out trying to sell- I have an actual job that takes up all my time haha)...worked for me since we buy so many cases for the sleds in the winter time alone that the commission paid on the bulk order basically gives me free membership haha (and the price for the oil is the same if you are a dealer or a preferred customer)
So basically I don't charge any of my buddies any extra on the cases, we take a big bulk order for everyone at the cottage that has a sled and needs oil for the winter, place the order and snag it from the depot down the street.
All in all though - they have the things setup pyramidish- but it works very similar to being a costco member- you pay a fee to get a better deal...can't say I agree with it totally, but the product is really good and the price as a member is pretty stellar (I get it cheaper than I can get mobil 1)
Yes my local NAPA stocks it, how ever not all do, even if they didn't I would be willing to wait a few days for it to be shipped to me just to make sure I am protecting my engine the best that I can. What your telling me is you need it right that moment and can't wait just a few days if you had to, to protect an engine so it can last who knows how much longer than some other oils. Have patience and protect it as long as your happy in the end.
On the other side of the border I pay $10.50 a quart.
On the other side of the border I pay $10.50 a quart.
I actually price all my repair parts like that... go on autozone's site, mulitply the price by 3 and that's what I'll pay here... so I usually just drive across the border haha
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 6
From: Marengo, Ia
I know I've heard Tick Performance recommend synthetic Valvoline VR1 10w30 do to it's higher ZDDP content for cars with aftermarket cams and is usually easy to find, my local Wal*Mart used to carry it. Also Amsoil shouldn't be hard to find if you look for it, my local Theisens (large mid west farm and home chain) carries it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,616
Likes: 65
From: NYC
I visited a Napa today. No Amsoil. 
As I'm looking for an off the shelf oil in common stores like Pep Boys, AutoZone and Napa, Penzoil looks to be my next oil.
Penzoil Ultra Pure Plus 10W-30 in quarts lists at $9.79.
Like most oils, it'll be on sale with a cheapo oil filter at some point. In my experience, the quart price drops to somewhere around $6~$6.50. This is when I stock up.
Buying the $39.99 five gallon jug at non-sale price puts each quart at $7.99.
Although not in a "walk in store", just for comparison, the five quart jug can be had via the internet with free shipping in a three pack for $95.72, brings the per quart price down to $6.38.
As I'm looking for an off the shelf oil in common stores like Pep Boys, AutoZone and Napa, Penzoil looks to be my next oil.
Penzoil Ultra Pure Plus 10W-30 in quarts lists at $9.79.
Like most oils, it'll be on sale with a cheapo oil filter at some point. In my experience, the quart price drops to somewhere around $6~$6.50. This is when I stock up.
Buying the $39.99 five gallon jug at non-sale price puts each quart at $7.99.
Although not in a "walk in store", just for comparison, the five quart jug can be had via the internet with free shipping in a three pack for $95.72, brings the per quart price down to $6.38.
Last edited by Paul Bell; Nov 7, 2014 at 06:56 AM.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,373
Likes: 4
From: Auckland, Nth Is, New Zealand.
It's all well and good choosing and using a good oil, we all do, 'BUT' most engine wear is done on inital fire up while building up oil pressure & the oil gets circulating.
Soooo how many of you are using a Accusump?
Not into having the engine build up oil pressure before starting it.
Soooo how many of you are using a Accusump?
Not into having the engine build up oil pressure before starting it.
german castrol aka the green stuff hasnt been made since 07 i blieve but they have still made and are still making the euro formula as well as others. I personally use a good dino oil or vr1. In the end after a lot of research on Bob Is the Oil Guy if you change your oil regularly at low intervals like most of us should a good dino oil is more than fine.
I use Penzzoil YB or vr1. However if I can get amoil locally to me at the orlando warehouse for 6 bucks (looking into tht now) then i may start using that
I use Penzzoil YB or vr1. However if I can get amoil locally to me at the orlando warehouse for 6 bucks (looking into tht now) then i may start using that
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Falling Waters, WV
I doubt you'll find Amsoil on Napa's website. It's a local distributed brand i do believe, if a Napa has it, it's because the manager is getting from a local distributor and stocking his own shelves. The A&A auto parts(pa) store i worked at in high school is doing this, the manager of that store is getting amsoil locally and the amsoil guy is coming in weekly to see what he needs replaced.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,616
Likes: 65
From: NYC
It's all well and good choosing and using a good oil, we all do, 'BUT' most engine wear is done on inital fire up while building up oil pressure & the oil gets circulating.
Soooo how many of you are using a Accusump?
Not into having the engine build up oil pressure before starting it.
Soooo how many of you are using a Accusump?
Not into having the engine build up oil pressure before starting it.
Shows you that the colder it gets the more of a dry start you are going to have.
I have run Amsoils 5W-40 European Formula in my Camaro. I currently run the Amsoil XL 5w-30 in my 2002 Expedition, my Dad's 2004 Sierra, and Mom's 2001 Yukon. I currently run Amsoil 10w-40 (4.5-5 quarts) and the Z-Rod 10w-30 (1 quart) becasue the car sits a lot.
Before accepting recommendations on which oil to use, you really need to specify what the use is. A well used street engine would use something very different than a brand new race engine.
There are only 4 synthetic oils on the market: Amsoil, RP, RL, and Schaffer. All other "synthetics" are actually refined dino oils. That doesn't make them a bad oil, just a bad value.
I use RP in the race car and in my Harley. The UOA's in the air cooled Harley show a definite advantage over M1. RP handles the heat far better than M1.
For the race car, I overhaul the engine every other season. I plastigauge the bearings when new, and when I do the overhaul. There's a very small amount of wear after two years of street and road racing abuse. They're still well with specs for new bearings. I could probably leave the bearings in for another 2 seasons - but my OCD won't allow that .
RP used to be hard to find and expensive. But now you can get it at Wally-World for <$8 a quart.
My truck and the wife's car don't see near the abuse that the race car and Harley do (oil wise), so they get regular dino oil.
I use RP in the race car and in my Harley. The UOA's in the air cooled Harley show a definite advantage over M1. RP handles the heat far better than M1.
For the race car, I overhaul the engine every other season. I plastigauge the bearings when new, and when I do the overhaul. There's a very small amount of wear after two years of street and road racing abuse. They're still well with specs for new bearings. I could probably leave the bearings in for another 2 seasons - but my OCD won't allow that .
RP used to be hard to find and expensive. But now you can get it at Wally-World for <$8 a quart.
My truck and the wife's car don't see near the abuse that the race car and Harley do (oil wise), so they get regular dino oil.
Pennzoil starts with Pennsylvania crude - a dino oil. Nothing synthetic about it. Then it's refined enough to meet certain performance characteristics so that the FTC will allow it to be called "Synthetic". A legal trick of marketing, and nothing more.
These so-called synthetics are not bad oils. Some of them are slightly better than standard dino oils. For the average street car, they're probably more than you really need. But if you're paying more than $5 or so a quart, you're getting ripped off (IMO).