that looks really nice!!

what did u use to open up the TB area with? just a sanding wheel? and does fine sandpaper smooth plastic enough with out leaving it rough?

how well sealed do you think it is? for like boosted applications? is it pretty solid and sturdy feeling or does it look like it could of been sealed together better where the 2 half meet?

 

Interesting. I thought they were supposed to be a pretty stout intake for boost applications.

 

yeah the inspection plate bent around the bolts and leaked, also did everything in the world to keep bolts in hte plate and they backed off still, steel vs aluminum i guess, used locktite even, was not a fan of the intake at all, and it weighed A TON.

 

I'm also considering the dorman ls6 intake but I'm just scared it's not going to flow good, wish someone would test it out so we could see some numbers

 

from what i read and the conclusion i got from reading around on it is basically is its a REPLACEMENT ls6 intake, not a performance intake, its not an ls6 intake, that being said it out flows an ls1 and ls2 intake from everything i gathered and is on par with the ls6 intake basically depending on mods and etc.

ls1 < ls2 < dorman ls6 </= oem ls6 < Fast 92+ intakes

from what I (ME and the reading ive done/seen) have read the above is how it pans out basically, could be wrong so not saying this is in stone but.

i would love to know more info about the dorman ls6 against stock ls1 and ls2 but it seems rare to find

any more infor im open to discussion and facts, not arguing lol.

 

It would be nice to see some testing between a LS6 and a ported Dorman, that 73mm TB opening that 2000z346 fond could easily be why it was down 4 hp to the LS6 in the one test that was done.

 

yeah could very well be true

 

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2014/1...ake-dyno-test/

 

^^^Thats the test I was talking about. If the Dorman had been ported or even if only the TB opening had been opened up to match the TB it may have been even with or maybe even better than the LS6.

 

yeah ive seen it before, imho i think its a BS test, they lined up a factory style (not replica or clone) replacement intake against a proven and biggest name aftermarket PERFORMANCE intake manifold, and then against the manifold its replacing (which is a factory manifold not made to be a performance intake just happen to be a damn good intake) and its self, so imo its obvious it is going to come up as the "worst" intake in this test, if they wanted to do a real test they would use it with factory intakes, an ls1, ls2 and the ls6 (maybe ls3 if they wanted) but i think tons of people look at this test and go "o its the worst intake ever" no its the worst intake in that test.

 

so heres whats going on, i am going to get the dorman ls6 intake so i can give a review/thoughts on it and if i think it might be able to hold boost or not, im going to make a call when it comes in whether or not it goes on my turbo car but what i feel is going to happen is my friend is going to give me $150 and his LS1 intake with no EGR off his c5 and i give him this since hes N/A, that being said. Im going to probably and open up the TB area(if he wants) to at least accommodate for stock TB, then we plan on doing a few before and after tests of the ls1 intake then swap for the dorman intake, unfortunately ( i know ) we arnt gunna be hitting the dyno with it even though thats what i would really like to see also.

 

I got mine in the mail yesterday and just now finished sanding the logos and stuff off the top. That big part number wedge in the middle is a real son of a bitch lol but I WAS hand sanding... Anyway, the tb opening measured 74 mm on the outer most part on all three rulers I tried. However, it does seem to shrink a bit more the further you move into the intake. Couldn't guess the size is of the inner most part. I'm going to open this up as much as possible while still leaving the gasket area intact and make sure it's the same size all the way through. It looks to me like 78 mm is possible if you're comfortable leaving next to no material between the gasket and opening. After that I'm going to work the wedge out of the runners. Seems like a fella could do a quite a bit more, but this is my first time porting anything and I'd rather play it safe. I'll be using a nice write up I found on porting a fast 90 for reference. Anyone have any tips on where I could smooth or take out more material safely?

Sorry for the hijack lol but this is for the good of the community! Or science. Or whatever makes it acceptable.

 

ur fine, and yeah i can stick some calibers on it when it comes in and compare specs to an ls1 intake and a blown up ls6 intake if its still around, and im curious to see how u can port it, sounds like between u and i this thread should have good info

 

I would like to see one of these Intakes , if it is a 2 piece and the lower is a copy of the fast 78 . There a good chance that this can be improved with some porting , can someone post pictures of the upper and lower ? I have ported truck intakes before and they too are 74 mm at the snout . I open it to 78 mm all the way back, remove the posts, knock down all casting flash and blend.

 

I can't remember the name of the particular technique, but it is welded together. As far as I know, no one has taken it apart, but the bottom looks identical to the Fast bottom I've seen pics of. So I'm planning to port it the same. But given the fact that it can't be easily taken apart and you'll have to do everything through the port, it will be tougher to get everything smooth and straight. Check out the new intake on the block thread. There are lots of pics in there!

 

what are u guys using to port plastic? just a sander/flapper wheel on a die grinder type thing? what do u use to "polish" it our or make it real smooth, fine grit paper?

 

I have a dremel, but Im afraid of gouging it or burning through. I don't have the right attachments anyway. So I've actually just hand sanded everything so far. I'm done smoothing the top and am halfway done with the TB opening. Using 60 grit to get most of the meat out then moving finer and finer until I'm as smooth as I can get with 400 grit. Couldn't find 1000 at the store so I'll have to put the finishing touches on when I get a couple sheets. I'm doing one half of the tb then the other and will take a picture comparing the thickness of the ported vs non ported side before I finish. It's taking FOREVER doing it by hand so if you're comfortable with a dremel, do that instead.

 

I'm not going to touch the bottom until I have the right pieces to use in my dremel. There's no way those wedges are coming out by hand in what little space you have to work. I'll be looking for the longer sanding bits in various grits. Probably a 220 to start and end with a 1000. I'll use two or three different grits in between those for transition.

 

Sorry for the crappy iphone pic. For some reason it will only let me upload one pic at a time from my phone, so here is the ported side. Out of the box the lip measures 2 mm thick. After ported, it measures close to 1/3 of a mm. It's somewhat sharp to the touch. I think I'll stop here and try to match the other side. Once I do that, I'll make sure it's the same all the way back and smooth it out a little more.