5.3 supercharge build heads?
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5.3 supercharge build heads? I'm working with a lm7. I have a vortech v2 head unit in my closet ready to throw on. Just need son solid answers about compression and what heads are best for me.
I'm aiming for 500hp for an end result on 93 octane. I've read that the 317 and 243 (799) will lower my compression. But milling the heads can put me in a safe place to run decent boost, with better flow that stock heads (706?)
What's a good target compression ratio to run boost safely?
What size injector should I run with my target hp goal?
I will be doing a ls6 intake swap for clearance reasons.
Any help is appreciated!
I'm aiming for 500hp for an end result on 93 octane. I've read that the 317 and 243 (799) will lower my compression. But milling the heads can put me in a safe place to run decent boost, with better flow that stock heads (706?)
What's a good target compression ratio to run boost safely?
What size injector should I run with my target hp goal?
I will be doing a ls6 intake swap for clearance reasons.
Any help is appreciated!
For a street car I would leave the LM7 compression where its at... 9.5:1
No need to change the heads for what you want out of this. I would recommend pulling the heads replacing the gaskets with MLS, some good dual valve springs with hardened push rods, and ARP head studs. 60# injectors will get you to the 700-750 hp mark on pump gas.
No need to change the heads for what you want out of this. I would recommend pulling the heads replacing the gaskets with MLS, some good dual valve springs with hardened push rods, and ARP head studs. 60# injectors will get you to the 700-750 hp mark on pump gas.
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Well with future upgrades in mind what kind of power can I take the stock heads to. I've Also read many issues with the heads cracking and leaking. I'd rather not deal with this and spend a couple hundred on better heads and have room to grow along the way.
I've read of some cracking issues with the 706 castings as well, Some do some don't. As far as a stock casting power limit... 1,000 hp has been done on 317 castings, I'm running 317's on my setup as well. For what your doing currently I would go with some 243/799 if your going to swap them. Have them milled down to low 60's cc's and run a thin MLS gasket. You'll want to keep the compression up so it's not a slug out of boost on the street. If you were going to swap pistons I would tell you to look at 317's but with the dish of the 5.3L piston and the 72cc combustion chamber in the 317 heads you would be in the 8's for compression.
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cool. I'll look into the 799 heads a little more. any info on a oil pump? Stock vs high volume? I figure since I'll be in there doing the cam, gear and chain, that I might just do the high volume pump. Any thing I should know about with swapping the oil pan with an ls1 ? (swapping it for clearance )
As far as pumps I have a ported LS6 in my 383 LS1 and I have a Melling H/V in my 01 Yukon XL 5.3L. Both make about 75psi at wide open throttle, and 45 psi at hot idle. I would use both again in the future... Pick one.
Oil pan, you'll want to make sure you get a F-body pick up tube, O ring and windage tray. My O ring is blue, there is red, green, and black also. One tip I've learned the hard way is to take some red Hi-temp RTV silicone and put some on the 4 corners where the rear main cover and timing cover come in to contact with the pan.
Oil pan, you'll want to make sure you get a F-body pick up tube, O ring and windage tray. My O ring is blue, there is red, green, and black also. One tip I've learned the hard way is to take some red Hi-temp RTV silicone and put some on the 4 corners where the rear main cover and timing cover come in to contact with the pan.
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A couple more questions. This is actually going into a Jeep grand Cherokee, using it for a dune truck. I'll probably delete the evap caniste. Any issues with that? From what I've read tuning can adjust for that. And then fuel, another member mentioned using an areomotive 340 in tank pump. Any opinions there? any particular aftermarket fuel rail you can recommend? If I throw a Aeromotive fuel sender in place of my Jeep sender, is a return line recommended? Also fuel pressure regulators, and advice on those?
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I have deleted my EVAP on the fuel rail and vented my tank to the atmosphere with a little filter. Then tuned the DTC's out of the computer, no problems here. As long as you have some kind of venting system your good to go. The 340 pump can support some power and meet your power goals. I run a dual Walbro 255's in tank with a Hobbs switch on the second pump. I'm still on a stock fuel rail so I don't have any recommendations for you. Depending on what type of fuel tank your going to use and you end all power goal, you might want to just bite the bullet and do a return style fuel line and remote regulator. I use LPA for my fuel system stuff, give Lonnie a call and tell him what your doing his product and customer service is top notch. http://www.lonniesperformance.com/
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