harmonic balancer install help needed
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Teching In
Joined: Aug 2014
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harmonic balancer install help needed so i pulled the balancer to change the oil pump and now its time to put it back on. i heated the balancer a little with a heat gun and slid it on the crank. well its to far for me to get it back off and heat it some more but its not quite far enough on the crank for me to get the crank bolt in there and start installing it. any ideas?
Edit: since I couldn't remember i went and checked my tools, i remembered I used Hawks Balancer Install tool, and DID NOT use a hammer. Lol sorry poor initial advice.
Memory failed me
Memory failed me
Last edited by Squirts11; Mar 16, 2015 at 08:32 AM.
Step 1. Take crank bolt to hardware store
Step 2. Match up with longer bolt - at least an inch
Step 3. Get varying washers to stack them wide enough to grab the balancer
Step 4. Use the longer bolt to pull the balance onto the crank nose
Step 5. When longer bolt bottoms out, remove it and get the stock bolt and use it to get the balancer the rest of the way on.
Step 6. Loosen the stock bolt and follow instructions for proper torque.
Note - in order to achieve torque target, find a friend with a pet gorilla
Step 2. Match up with longer bolt - at least an inch
Step 3. Get varying washers to stack them wide enough to grab the balancer
Step 4. Use the longer bolt to pull the balance onto the crank nose
Step 5. When longer bolt bottoms out, remove it and get the stock bolt and use it to get the balancer the rest of the way on.
Step 6. Loosen the stock bolt and follow instructions for proper torque.
Note - in order to achieve torque target, find a friend with a pet gorilla
Step 1. Take crank bolt to hardware store
Step 2. Match up with longer bolt - at least an inch
Step 3. Get varying washers to stack them wide enough to grab the balancer
Step 4. Use the longer bolt to pull the balance onto the crank nose
Step 5. When longer bolt bottoms out, remove it and get the stock bolt and use it to get the balancer the rest of the way on.
Step 6. Loosen the stock bolt and follow instructions for proper torque.
Note - in order to achieve torque target, find a friend with a pet gorilla
Step 2. Match up with longer bolt - at least an inch
Step 3. Get varying washers to stack them wide enough to grab the balancer
Step 4. Use the longer bolt to pull the balance onto the crank nose
Step 5. When longer bolt bottoms out, remove it and get the stock bolt and use it to get the balancer the rest of the way on.
Step 6. Loosen the stock bolt and follow instructions for proper torque.
Note - in order to achieve torque target, find a friend with a pet gorilla
If thats not an option, I use heat all the time. Heat the BOTTOM of the pulley only not the rubber area with a propane torch for a few mins. Then place it on the crank snout, it will literally fall on and bottom out. then just put the bolt in and torque
I can't believe the bad info given in this thread. I will keep it simple:
DON'T use a hammer
DON'T use a bolt to pull it on
if you want a good opportunity to **** **** up, do one or both of the things above. If you want to do it right, listen to SlasherVRGR or the edited part of Squirts11 or redbird555 and use a stud. Here is a link to purchase one, or you can make it yourself:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...her-stuff.html
DON'T use a hammer
DON'T use a bolt to pull it on
if you want a good opportunity to **** **** up, do one or both of the things above. If you want to do it right, listen to SlasherVRGR or the edited part of Squirts11 or redbird555 and use a stud. Here is a link to purchase one, or you can make it yourself:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...her-stuff.html
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I'm confused about this "no bolt" business. While I fully agree that using a stud is the best method, what do 98% of ya'll use on your heads? BOLTS! And into ALUMINUM threads no less! So you're saying it's OK to twist headbolts into aluminum threads, but dead wrong to twist a balancer bolt into a steel crank? I think it's more a matter of proper thread engagement length...
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Verdad Gallardo some balancers have a tighter interference fit than others. You won't know that unless you have the ability to measure, or until you start pulling the balancer on. Like a lot of other people have mentioned, aftermarket ones seem to be easier to pull onto the crank than stock ones, but I doubt that will always be the case. Not worth the risk imo. Safest way is a stud. You don't have to do it that way, that's entirely up to the installer, not my engine.
and I use studs on all heads and as many things that require a moderately high torque that a stud can be used on.
and I use studs on all heads and as many things that require a moderately high torque that a stud can be used on.
I'm confused about this "no bolt" business. While I fully agree that using a stud is the best method, what do 98% of ya'll use on your heads? BOLTS! And into ALUMINUM threads no less! So you're saying it's OK to twist headbolts into aluminum threads, but dead wrong to twist a balancer bolt into a steel crank? I think it's more a matter of proper thread engagement length...
Yes it is. And winding a steel bolt into aluminum threads is way more harsh than a steel bolt into steel threads. Again, it's not about the "bolt" so much as it's about the thread engagement of whatever method is used. You need at least one bolt diameter worth of threads (16mm or 5/8") engaged or "there will be blood". That's 8 threads worth...
That's right folks, not the greatest advise here.
DO NOT use a bolt of any length to pull the balancer onto the crank.
DO use a length of threaded rod all the way into the crank, a heavy washer and nut and grease the nut's threads and the washer where it contacts the nut.
1970camaroRS shows it pretty well here.
If you think you can do it with a bolt and you succeed doing so, great, you're one lucky wrench turner-but this is still the wrong way. You'll stop after that one time it goes bad and you trash your crank.
But for beer's sake don't give others advice to do it the wrong way.
DO NOT use a bolt of any length to pull the balancer onto the crank.
DO use a length of threaded rod all the way into the crank, a heavy washer and nut and grease the nut's threads and the washer where it contacts the nut.
1970camaroRS shows it pretty well here.
If you think you can do it with a bolt and you succeed doing so, great, you're one lucky wrench turner-but this is still the wrong way. You'll stop after that one time it goes bad and you trash your crank.
But for beer's sake don't give others advice to do it the wrong way.