Motor mounts / headers
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
Motor mounts / headers It all started with the replacement of my stock oil pump. It's turned into - let's take the TA down for a few weeks and take care of a long list of things .... "because I'm there."
Apparently I will save myself a lot of time with the mounts by removing the exhaust manifolds. Do I really want to ever put them back on? This is my DD and I need to pass emissions..... so should I go with headers?
Apparently I will save myself a lot of time with the mounts by removing the exhaust manifolds. Do I really want to ever put them back on? This is my DD and I need to pass emissions..... so should I go with headers?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
If you get long tube headers, you'll need to delete AIR and EGR if you have it. Also, you might end up needing to delete rear oxygen sensors. Many tuners can deactivate these codes so your light stays off. If you get a cat'ed y pipe and keep your cam close to stock, you'll still pass sniff tests.
AIR simply heats the cats up
EGR is deleted at factory in 01-02, so obviously not needed
Rear O2 sensors just tell the computer the cats are working.
AIR simply heats the cats up
EGR is deleted at factory in 01-02, so obviously not needed
Rear O2 sensors just tell the computer the cats are working.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
If you get long tube headers, you'll need to delete AIR and EGR if you have it. Also, you might end up needing to delete rear oxygen sensors. Many tuners can deactivate these codes so your light stays off. If you get a cat'ed y pipe and keep your cam close to stock, you'll still pass sniff tests.
AIR simply heats the cats up
EGR is deleted at factory in 01-02, so obviously not needed
Rear O2 sensors just tell the computer the cats are working.
AIR simply heats the cats up
EGR is deleted at factory in 01-02, so obviously not needed
Rear O2 sensors just tell the computer the cats are working.
I hit a brick wall several days ago and lost the desire to wrench on that thing at all. What could have taken me a couple of days is now probably going to be a couple of weeks hitting it here and there. After driving the Firebird yesterday (knowing it's my DD right now) - that will be motivation enough to get the TA done.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
Made some progress on it today. Engine is up, k-member lowered and oil pan out. Motor mounts and pedestals are out. I'll take them to work tomorrow and drill the rivets. I really didn't have any issues at all getting the mounts and pedestals out with the exhaust manifolds on. I also was using an air ratchet with a swivel and different combinations of extensions.... etc. Now its just put it all back together. I can wait to fight with those mounts. I think I'll take the mount through bolts to work tomorrow and grind them to a point.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Gifts Neither Your Dad Nor Grad Will Shove Into the 'Trinket Drawer'
Brett Foote
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Before you grind them down, there is a sticky with an awesome trick. Get the bolt in on the driver's side while you have freedom of motion with the engine. On the passenger side, take your car scissor jack and put it in on the strut tower. Press against the motor mount (make sure you aren't crushing anything on your strut tower wall). A few good cranks on the jack, and the hole will line up, and you can just push the bolt in. That's how I did it, and I had nobody helping me with the job.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...otsa-pics.html
Post #6. There's alot of pics, so it's a long scroll to get down there
Post #6. There's alot of pics, so it's a long scroll to get down there
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...otsa-pics.html
Post #6. There's alot of pics, so it's a long scroll to get down there
Post #6. There's alot of pics, so it's a long scroll to get down there
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
Yesterday I started putting everything back together....only to find that when installing my rollermaster timing chain set, I need a puller to get the crank gear off. OK ... even with a key way on the crank? Anyhow, gonna have to grind down the 3 jaw puller ears a bit so it can fit behind the gear.
As for the mounts, they're ready to go in as well. Since I have the K member lowered and the engine raised (so I could remove the oil pan), I was thinking that I should be able to attach the clam shell loosely to the pedestal and install it that way. Being able to jack/move engine and K member should help.
As for the mounts, they're ready to go in as well. Since I have the K member lowered and the engine raised (so I could remove the oil pan), I was thinking that I should be able to attach the clam shell loosely to the pedestal and install it that way. Being able to jack/move engine and K member should help.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
Today I wrapped up the motor mounts. I found it quite easy with the k-member lowered 4 inches and the engine raised. I had tons of room so I put the through-bolt in loosely. I also loosely mounted the clamshell to block and a combination of jacking up k-member/lowering engine brought the pedestals close enough to start the upper two bolts to each k-member. Further lowering/raising the engine/k-member allowed me to bolt the lower 2 pedestal bolts as the pedestals became flush on the k-member.
It's my opinion that it would be a heck of a lot easier just lowering the k-member a bit when doing this. It's only 6 bolts, 4 lower shock bolts, steering coupler. Everything is cake to get to and it just gives you tons of room to work as well. Throw in an air rachet, deep well 13mm, racheting 13mm, extensions and swivels, theres no reason one couldn't do this in 4 hours.
It's my opinion that it would be a heck of a lot easier just lowering the k-member a bit when doing this. It's only 6 bolts, 4 lower shock bolts, steering coupler. Everything is cake to get to and it just gives you tons of room to work as well. Throw in an air rachet, deep well 13mm, racheting 13mm, extensions and swivels, theres no reason one couldn't do this in 4 hours.