How does this hook up? I maybe think the company I ordered from sent the wrong one. Too late to send back because im just now installing it. It didnt come with the small hose attached.

 

There's a small line that runs from the crossover tube directly to the port under the radiator cap

 

yep, attach a rubber hose to that and then run that rubber hose to the fitting underneath the rad cap

 

So basically just bypass the throttle body setup? Would this be wise to do?

 

many folks bypass the TB. It is to prevent icing of the TB in really cold weather. No big deal. Back in the early days of LS engines, it was thought you would gain HP by bypassing, the thought was that you didn't heat incoming air. I never saw any proof that bypassing increased hp, but my butt-o-meter is not well calibrated.

The TB gets as hot as any nearby component in the summer with a hot engine, so you be the judge.

 

what ever you do, do not cap off this line, make sure it has a route back to the radiator. It is the high point vent in your engine block cooling system.

 

Ok thanks guys.I'll go buy some more hose and hook it up.

 

Car is running hot now. There is loud squeaking. Vould my water pump be gone? Or is this the wrong crossover?

 

Very common to get trapped air in the block. That's why you can't cap that off. Did you bleed the Air out of the cooling system? Method:

Lift front wheels very high
Remove radiator cap
Run engine

As the thermostat opens and closes, you should get a few big burps of air coming out. Keep topping off as your level drops. When you are getting a solid stream from the steam hose, cap the radiator, fill the reservoir, lower car.

Should be good after that

The loud squeaking could be anything. Wet drive belt, bad accessory or tensioner pulley, water pump. Try to figure out where it's the loudest. Use a long screwdriver against your ear like a stethoscope if you have to.

 

Thanks I'll try that tomorrow morning. The squeaking stopped for now though. One more question. I'm driving open headers to the exhaust shop tomorrow, would it be ok? Won't damage anything would it?

 

If you are working on a F body, Do Not connect the hose from the crossover to the port directly under the radiator cap. That port goes to the over flow tank. There should be another port about an inch and a half under the radiator cap that goes directly into the radiator. That is the port that you attach the crossover hose to. Also, that is not an LS 6 crossover tube. The LS 6 and the LS 1 tube have a short tube coming out of it that would connect into the rubber hose that has the spring clamp on it.

 

I never saw any proof that bypassing increased hp, but my butt-o-meter is not well calibrated.

 

Are you sure? That's how it's been hooked up. I'm about to go outside and take a quick pic. I hope I didn't damage anything

 

The company I ordered from just got everything wrong in my order because I ordered an ls6 valley cover and they sent me an regular ls1 cover even though the part number was for ls6. It's from a sponsor on here but I'm not going to call any names since they got the order right. I hate I had to pay shipping though to return the wrong part back

 

Ok I just looked outside. It's hooked up correctly. But would running the wrong crossover such as the one I have on it cause the cooling system to not have pressure?

 

shouldn't cause it to not hold pressure, but it can cause it to not vent steam and leave you with a good air pocket in the engine.

 

I'll order the correct crossover tube.that's exactly what it's doing.It seems to try to run hot but it doesn't.The needle good a tad too the right from the middle then settles back down to the middle.

 

Darth is heading you down the correct path. For some reason, some cars are just hard to "burp" and get all the air out. I usually just loosen the studs slightly that hold those vent blocks and let a little coolant seep out but only when the engine is just warm and no system pressure. That's how I burp and it usually takes just once.

Now to the water pump. If you keep the coolant changed so the corrosion inhibitors are not spent ( the reason to replace) the only reason the water pump should fail is a mechanical issue like a bearing or seal, which is a rather rare occurrence.

BUT, the two block ports have gaskets that can leak. The LS engines have a really great gasket system, but, there is an installer variable. These gaskets can leak, and the ones I have seen seem to always seem be on the drivers side of the water pump to engine block connection. The leak can be so small that the leaking coolant evaporates and only leaves a trace of residue on the block below the connection. Often there is no puddle. so, as hard as it is to get there, look around all connections for a little stain of dried coolant. You will see a little tan stain (due to the inhibitors and the corrosion products oxidizing when they hit the atmosphere) at the leak point.

The issue is that this small leak can reduce system pressure, and you are relying on an air tight system to maintain the pressure-temperature conditions of your coolant system. This could also be a cause for the symptoms you are seeing: a fluctuating needle. if your system is fairly tight and as pressure goes up, it gets relieved by venting a little steam at a not-so-tight leak point, the coolant boils just a bit,a and the ability of steam to transfer heat is less effective than fluid. Then you go through another pressure cycle and your car is happy again. Hoses can leak too, but they are easier to find. Finally if you smell coolant inside the car you could have a leaking heater core. With no system pressure, the coolant boils at a much lower temperature than when pressurized. That is why you NEVER take the cap off a hot pressurized system, the boiling point temperature of a fluid changes and you flash all that supercharged water to steam and you get the holy crap burned out of you.

All in all you are probably down to a little pesky problem, and when you fix it, you might only know you did because your coolant system is finally happy with the task it has.

 

Only caution I'd give, while trying to burp it: if the motor gets too hot while topping off the coolant, you may get a geyser of coolant when the thermostat opens...



Did you also block off the rear coolant crossovers?

 

I blocked the rear crossovers when I cammed my LS1 in a 2000 Corvette. Never had the first overheating problem.

Replaced the intake with an LS6 so I had to do something about the crossover pipe. Just bought the blank blocks