Hooker LT Headers.. AIR hookup snapped right off
Hooker LT Headers.. AIR hookup snapped right off 3 years ago I bought a set of brand new Hooker LT's for my car.. they have less than 10,000 miles on them. The car is never driven in the rain and is stored in the winter. Not only did the start to rust within 8 months of being on the car, but I started hearing a ticking sound from the exhaust. Went to check it out and found that it was the AIR connection on the header.
I **** you not, went to wiggle it with just my hand (didn't even have a tool out yet) and it snapped right off the header. What a garbage product.. I understand that Stainless is the way to go but at the time I bought these I didn't have $1,000 + for stainless headers.
Where would you guys go from here? I bought the headers from WS6store, and I've tried to find the brands contact info (I guess they're a division of Holley?) to get them replaced but I doubt they'll do anything.
I guess now would be a good time to put in a pair of stainless 1 7/8" .. anyone have any suggestions that will fit with the TSP 3" catted y-pipe?
I **** you not, went to wiggle it with just my hand (didn't even have a tool out yet) and it snapped right off the header. What a garbage product.. I understand that Stainless is the way to go but at the time I bought these I didn't have $1,000 + for stainless headers.
Where would you guys go from here? I bought the headers from WS6store, and I've tried to find the brands contact info (I guess they're a division of Holley?) to get them replaced but I doubt they'll do anything.
I guess now would be a good time to put in a pair of stainless 1 7/8" .. anyone have any suggestions that will fit with the TSP 3" catted y-pipe?
I forget, but do the 02's only have AIR and no EGR? I thought I read that somewhere..
I'd prefer to keep everything as is. I have a Frost tune on the car, and I'd really like to avoid throwing a CEL for deleting the AIR. Unless he wants to retune and delete the code for free
I won't pass inspection here with a CEL
I'd prefer to keep everything as is. I have a Frost tune on the car, and I'd really like to avoid throwing a CEL for deleting the AIR. Unless he wants to retune and delete the code for free
I won't pass inspection here with a CEL
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3 years ago I bought a set of brand new Hooker LT's for my car.. they have less than 10,000 miles on them. The car is never driven in the rain and is stored in the winter. Not only did the start to rust within 8 months of being on the car, but I started hearing a ticking sound from the exhaust. Went to check it out and found that it was the AIR connection on the header.
I **** you not, went to wiggle it with just my hand (didn't even have a tool out yet) and it snapped right off the header. What a garbage product.. I understand that Stainless is the way to go but at the time I bought these I didn't have $1,000 + for stainless headers.
Where would you guys go from here? I bought the headers from WS6store, and I've tried to find the brands contact info (I guess they're a division of Holley?) to get them replaced but I doubt they'll do anything.
I guess now would be a good time to put in a pair of stainless 1 7/8" .. anyone have any suggestions that will fit with the TSP 3" catted y-pipe?
I **** you not, went to wiggle it with just my hand (didn't even have a tool out yet) and it snapped right off the header. What a garbage product.. I understand that Stainless is the way to go but at the time I bought these I didn't have $1,000 + for stainless headers.
Where would you guys go from here? I bought the headers from WS6store, and I've tried to find the brands contact info (I guess they're a division of Holley?) to get them replaced but I doubt they'll do anything.
I guess now would be a good time to put in a pair of stainless 1 7/8" .. anyone have any suggestions that will fit with the TSP 3" catted y-pipe?
Hooker LT Headers.. AIR hookup snapped right off Personally, I'd pull them both. Cut the air tubes off, weld the holes, buff them down, hi-temp paint them and sell them.
Put that money towards a set of Speed Engineering 1 7/8" headers and be done with it. Matches perfect with the TSP Y also.
Put that money towards a set of Speed Engineering 1 7/8" headers and be done with it. Matches perfect with the TSP Y also.
Those Speed Engineering headers look awesome and you can't beat the price, but it looks like they don't have AIR hookups.. I'm really trying to avoid deleting that system and having to mail my PCM back to Frost, which I'm sure would cost a good amount. So far the only Stainless, 1 7/8" headers w/AIR that I've found are ARH and they're super expensive.. anyone know of any others?
Hooker LT Headers.. AIR hookup snapped right off
Originally Posted by 02firehawkT/A
Those Speed Engineering headers look awesome and you can't beat the price, but it looks like they don't have AIR hookups.. I'm really trying to avoid deleting that system and having to mail my PCM back to Frost, which I'm sure would cost a good amount. So far the only Stainless, 1 7/8" headers w/AIR that I've found are ARH and they're super expensive.. anyone know of any others?
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I've seen several vendors that had the AIR tubes on them eventually break off over time. That's why we no longer offer our headers with them. That, plus most customers do without them anyways. Any mild steel header will rust. If you live in a wet area or an area that gets a lot of snow or by the ocean it will speed up the rusting process. There's just no way around that unless you go stainless. personally, I would delete the AIR/EGR and run stainless headers. We have our 1-3/4" 304 stainless steel headers with seamless tubing and y-pipe for $509.99 + shipping. Give us a call. We would be happy to set you up with that.
Lonnie
Lonnie
__________________
NOW OFFERING TSP BY YANK CONVERTERS
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - WISECO PISTONS - LUNATI - CALLIES - NEW TSP BRAND CRANK & RODS - COMETIC GASKETS
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COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - WISECO PISTONS - LUNATI - CALLIES - NEW TSP BRAND CRANK & RODS - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - ARH HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - PRECISION INDUSTRIES - YANK - CIRCLE D - AND MORE!
NEW NUMBER (512)863-0900
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Verdad Gallardo I've seen several vendors that had the AIR tubes on them eventually break off over time. That's why we no longer offer our headers with them. That, plus most customers do without them anyways. Any mild steel header will rust. If you live in a wet area or an area that gets a lot of snow or by the ocean it will speed up the rusting process. There's just no way around that unless you go stainless. personally, I would delete the AIR/EGR and run stainless headers. We have our 1-3/4" 304 stainless steel headers with seamless tubing and y-pipe for $509.99 + shipping. Give us a call. We would be happy to set you up with that.
Lonnie
Lonnie
I don't know of any. Like I said, most headers, even stainless, with the emissions fittings seem to break off over time at the base. That's part of the reason most companies don't sell them anymore. I would have the emissions deleted and have the tune updated.
Lonnie
Lonnie
__________________
NOW OFFERING TSP BY YANK CONVERTERS
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - WISECO PISTONS - LUNATI - CALLIES - NEW TSP BRAND CRANK & RODS - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - ARH HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - PRECISION INDUSTRIES - YANK - CIRCLE D - AND MORE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - WISECO PISTONS - LUNATI - CALLIES - NEW TSP BRAND CRANK & RODS - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - ARH HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - PRECISION INDUSTRIES - YANK - CIRCLE D - AND MORE!
NEW NUMBER (512)863-0900
This is what I did, I kept mine and had them fixed for less than $50
To stop using the AIR system on an 02' , can I just pull the fuse for AIR and leave everything connected (except the metal flanges that attach to the header, which I would obviously remove)? Or should I just rip out the entire system?
Do the 02's have the hookup on the back of the intake manifold?
Do the 02's have the hookup on the back of the intake manifold?