Noob with TB/MAF question
I've got 10's with the stock MAF on my heads/cam car. Also, pick up an airlid as mentioned. My TB and an airlid should get you .3 ET reduction in the 1/4 and probably 25rwhp.
Scott
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low end torque (at WOT) because the
throttle is not limiting the airflow or MAP
at all, in the first place - it's pure pumping
volume at near ideal volumetric efficiency.
As to part-throttle, well, that's so pedal-
dependent you can't extract the benefit
of smooth putty from the blade's dominant
effect (like, that's why it's a throttle).
On an A4 car you could see an increase in RPM
if you were forcing the TCC to slip. Attributing
this to the increased power would be a mistake
I expect.
But, ported TB = good.
Ported MAF = new hobby, "post repeated complaints
about why is my car pinging and I think it's running
rich but I don't know".
- get the SLP bellows (that connects the MAF and TB) that has one rib instead of a bunch
My car was rich from the factory so descreening the MAF helped to lean it out some (need AutoTap for this). You already have a lid and the LS6 manifold so there really isn't much more to do on the intake side. I would say next thing to plan for it Hooker LTs and a new catback/true duals (I think Hooker catbacks use a BlowMaster ie: FlowMaster muffler).
I think this is LS1Tech confused the TB with the MAF day or something!
the blade seat, where that ridge is. The porting
job should ensure that the blade seat circle is
the narrowest point, blend the transition smooth
for least turbulent flow and eliminate the "dog
whistle" edges on the PCV and IAC ports so the
cone/ramp there is not a turbulator, too.
So yes, remove the lip, smooth the transitions, but leave the actual blade contact area alone.
So yes, remove the lip, smooth the transitions, but leave the actual blade contact area alone.
cosmetic......pshh......if it doesn't make it run faster I don't need it


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