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Wouldn't be much. I would grind on a stock k member. Some reason on aftermarket I wouldn't want to grind on my chromoly k member or any other suspension components. I felt the best way is to put a slight dent in the tube. We all know there will be zero preformance lost and nothing was grinded. The pipe was resting on the k member not hitting it where you could not install the header so marked and about 4 or 5 hits with a ball peen and perfect fit.
I'm bumping this thread. Has anyone else installed these headers? I am really interested in who has tried them with a stock k member and how much grinding was necessary. Any before and a free dyno numbers?
The headers on car prior were LSXPerformance. They were the first ebay type headers without emissions about 6-7 years ago. Cant comment on performance gains because I changed the whole drive line. On the passanger side though I plated the cut with 1/8" and still have over 1/4" clearance so you could get away with cutting less out. Drivers side was just barely touching that seam so I cut it back flush for goos clearance.
Nice pics. No doubt was easier with a tube k member lol
Im sure it definitely was. I have a bare block and heads i use for mock up on cars. Im sure its possible to do with motor in car but it would be tough. If you have the AC completely removed you might be able to get a 4" angle grinder down there from the top but Im betting most work on passanger side will be done with a die grinder. In all honesty I think the interference was less than a 1/4" on passanger side, but I'm going to be throwing some good power at this girl and wanted the wiggle room.
So should I attempt to try to install these with a stock k member?
Im sure it can be done with driveline in car. Make sure you have access to prpoer tools before starting though. On drivers side a reciprocating saw would easily cut the folded seam off ( I used a cut off wheel on angle grinder ). On passanger side it could all be ground out with a die grinder with carbide bits ( this will take a bit), I used cut off wheel, gringer and die grinder. The real question to ask yourself is, is a 2" header required? If not is it worth the hassle when a 1-7/8" header will bolt right in? Not trying to stear you away but I'm trying for 800+ to the wheels when I spray this car so I feel the 2" are worth it.
I agree with tug. My car is more racecar than street so I have tubular everything. No hvac etc and going to spray it heavily. And bigger cubes one day so it was worth it to me.
With 1 7/8 you won't loss much or any. 2 inch headers are going to be for the guys spraying the car heavily, procharged guys or big cubic NA engines. If your going h/c/I the 1 7/8 would be fine. And wouldn't really be worth the extra hassle.
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