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I know this is not the steam port, but on the throttle body on passenger side there is a red cap and an open tube. Also on the valve cover there's an open vent. Are these supposed to be connected to anything?
Those connections are for your PCV - positive crankcase ventilation. Do you know if you have the LS6 valley cover?
This is the steam vent. This hose connects to the bottom port under the radiator cap.
If you have the ls6 valley cover it will have a port under the intake manifold on the passenger side coming out of the valley cover:
It's dead center in this pic. If you have this port, loop a small vacuum line to the red capped port in your last post. If you don't, you'll have the old style PCV, which means routing hoses to all those ports on the valve covers.
You do realize that water boils at 212* F right? Your water is legit boiling away and evaporating from getting so hot. Put some 50/50 in and then try diagnosing the issue.
I know this is not the steam port, but on the throttle body on passenger side there is a red cap and an open tube. Also on the valve cover there's an open vent. Are these supposed to be connected to anything?
He has no ls6 valley cover.... and his steam ports are block off . I cant believe you guys missed that SMH...
Holy shizz i just realized he's using stock valley cover bolts that fast is prob cracked...
Why would the intake be cracked? Are the stock bolts longer? How would I check for a crack? Spray.starter fluid around the intake and see if it revs up?
Tomorrow I will hook up the steam vent. Couldn't get to.it today. Going to put antifreeze in also.
Why would the intake be cracked? Are the stock bolts longer? How would I check for a crack? Spray.starter fluid around the intake and see if it revs up?
Tomorrow I will hook up the steam vent. Couldn't get to.it today. Going to put antifreeze in also.
Your not going to find the steam port there blocked off. I can tell in the picture. Only way to check is to take the intake off.
Is it necessary to have the pcv equipment hooked up? Should I cap off that open tube on the valve cover and throttle body?
The stock valley cover bolts are to tall with every fast they need to be changed out to button style head bolts. The pvc stuff is there for a reason i would hook it all back up. If you have the stuff . If not search the forums for a diy.I'm amazed the tuner didn't catch it ither. I would get the ls6 cross over steam vent and get it installed . I know the temp gauge sensor is on the heads on the driver side . You got quite of work ahead of you. I recommend not driving it still these issues get sorted out. Before you hurt something .
Yeah, I don't put much stock in the shop that installed my motor and did the dyno and tune. They were ok, but they apparently don't get into the specifics of the ls1, like a good tuner should. I want to.do a few more mods and I will get it tuned elsewhere.
Is it absolutely necessary to have this steam vent hooked up? What can go wrong if the steam vent is not hooked up?
Yeah, I don't put much stock in the shop that installed my motor and did the dyno and tune. They were ok, but they apparently don't get into the specifics of the ls1, like a good tuner should. I want to.do a few more mods and I will get it tuned elsewhere.
Is it absolutely necessary to have this steam vent hooked up? What can go wrong if the steam vent is not hooked up?
I put a new hose to the coolant overflow tank and filled it up with antifreeze. I ran it a good while yesterday and had no cooling issues at all. Now it's running slightly cooler at around 207-208.
I have the 160 degree thermostat. What do I have to do to get it to run a bit cooler? Based on what I can tell, it seems like it has more power when it's in the 205-210 range.
Now I have to get this pcv hooked up. Going to call Fast and see if they can email me a diagram for the pcv
.There is No outlet for a steam vent any where. I read somewhere guys were tapping a steam vent into the water pump. If that doesn't work, I'm assuming I'll have to remove the.intake and install an ls6 steam vent? Is it really all that necessary?
The difficulty you'll have without the steam vent is that air will naturally find the highest point in the motor and stay there. I'm sure people have run without the vents and been fine. I advise against it. The risk is cracked heads.
On the running cooler side, since you have a 160 stat, if you're still running warm, you might need to get an LT1 radiator. Better water flow.
I've seen similar things as you regarding the hotter coolant temps seeming more powerful. I finally figured out its the oil temp. As the oil gets hotter, the internal resistance decreases resulting in better power output.
I run a 160 stat and LT1 radiator, my temps hang out about 185-190 fully heat soaked. I also run an electric water pump. I don't think the oil temps are any different, but I cured a lot of detonation with the lower temps.
In fact my car feels fastest if I fully warm the engine up, shut it off, and run the WP to get the water down to 160. Then start it, run it just long enough to settle into idle, and let her rip. Hot oil and cold coolant seem like the magic combo in my ride after I analyzed it.
Sorry for the detour on the post. Just trying to help explain what you're seeing and feeling.
Looks like u put the car together yourself. Only an idiot will block off all 4 steam vents on the heads. Run the front steam vent tube and ur problem is solved. That's if u didn't warp a damn head from all that heat.
Not necessarily. The guy he bought the car from probably did the block off. The engine shop that built it for him should have caught that IMO. He's building his first LS. If you're learning on one, these are the details you don't necessarily know. It's a painful way to learn. But you don't generally start with the assumption that a previous owner butchered the motor.
Fullblast, very good chance the previous owner ruined his heads blocking off those ports. You might have found the root cause of the entire thing that triggered your build. Very sorry for you on that. It makes an enjoyable hobby very frustrating. However, you probably haven't damaged it yet.
Looks like u put the car together yourself. Only an idiot will block off all 4 steam vents on the heads. Run the front steam vent tube and ur problem is solved. That's if u didn't warp a damn head from all that heat.
Why don't you try asking before you come here calling me an idiot and making false assumptions.
I bought the car like that and the shop that rebuilt it didn't catch it or care for that matter.
Last edited by Fullblast; Jan 1, 2016 at 04:43 PM.
Not necessarily. The guy he bought the car from probably did the block off. The engine shop that built it for him should have caught that IMO. He's building his first LS. If you're learning on one, these are the details you don't necessarily know. It's a painful way to learn. But you don't generally start with the assumption that a previous owner butchered the motor.
Fullblast, very good chance the previous owner ruined his heads blocking off those ports. You might have found the root cause of the entire thing that triggered your build. Very sorry for you on that. It makes an enjoyable hobby very frustrating. However, you probably haven't damaged it yet.
Yeah that sucks! Probably what blew the head gasket to start with.
Last edited by Fullblast; Jan 1, 2016 at 04:17 PM.
Ok...so I need to get an ls6 steam port line and vent these two steam ports to the radiator. Will the ls6 lines go around the bottom of the fast intake?
I can't understand why the previous owner would block the steam ports off! What a bunch of crap!
I ordered the Lt1 radiator. Is that a direct replacement or will I.have to make any modifications other than capping off a few lines?
The Lt1 radiator does have a steam port inlet like the ls1 right?
Last edited by Fullblast; Jan 1, 2016 at 04:41 PM.
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