Unless mine was the wrong part it had the same fittings. The pic you posted definitely shows the port blocked off. Almost certainly what took out the HG.

The back two ports on the LS6 kit are blocked. Front two will vent exactly like the pics I posted. Once you have all that connected, you should be able to raise the front wheels and burp the motor.

Someone posted earlier about running antifreeze. I agree with him. Once you see running temps in the 190 range consistently, you can flush it and run distilled water.

 

I'd love some better pics of these steam vent ports for my research, and more info about the ones "at the back that might be blocked" and how they look.
Would an engin eyou buy out of an OEM vehicle have factory blocked ports like that?

 

Factory LS6,2,3,7 all have the back two blocked and the front two vented tithe radiator.

 

The steam vent port is 35 bucks with gaskets at the dealership, you can reuse your bolts. Have fun learning

 

I read threw you old.stuff and realized who did your work on the car.... Don't ever go back .Dude just take it to badchad save your self the head ache let him look at it .

 

I called Bad chad a few times one day but he didn't answer.

The reason I took it to the shop I did because, the car broke down on the side of the road and I just had the wrecker tow it to the shop because it was close. I won't reuse that shop again. I had to put up with so much bullshit it's not even funny. Probably gave me a shitty tune as well.

Does Bad chad do dyno tuning? I want my **** tuned right. I'm definitely going to talk to him on Monday and see if he can look things over for me and get her tuned right. It seems like the tune might be crapping out a bit.

 

Who tuned it? And which shop did u take it to?

 

I see you have another thread looking into a 102/102 setup. They make great power, but you will want a tuner with a good reputation to take care of you. Much trickier to tune, because small adjustments make huge changes.

 

It's called SXT Perfomance in San Leon/Bacliff Tx.

I do not recommend them. They work on a lot of Ls stuff but overlooking this stuff on my car is ridiculous.

SO lesson learned the hard way! I'm gonna take it to Bad Chad performance in Huffman and let him have a look at it.

 

Sxt? Smmfh

 

Yeah. Sxt performance. Go there if you want to get jerked around and get a crappy dyno tune.....and get guys named Wuero for a $1200 head porting job! Haha!

You live and you learn.

 

Will it be obvious when I pick up an engine out of a truck that there are two forward facing coolant hoses/tubes that I need to T back into the lower radiator hose?

fwiw I've been tuning for 15 years and on the subject... I have never met a single person qualified to tune my lawn mower, let alone a performance engine. Even people who are doing 1/day for 350+ tunes per year are making common consistent mistakes, which experience cannot correct since an engine tuned "half-assed" will still seem to run ok for 2-3 years, it isn't until 20-30,000 miles these small tuning errors start to show up as marks on pistons or bearings, and by that time who can you blame? IMO Find someone with an engineering masters degree or better, that has been tuning their own cars for 10+ years and builds their own engines which have gone 100,000+ miles. I know it will be hard but thats the only kind of person I would trust. A shop is just a place somebody pays rent; there is nothing special about the people inside that makes them more capable tuners. Dynometers do not tune cars either, without the right background and understanding of mechanics and theory a dyno is just as likely to push your engine over the bleeding edge. For instance, the roller of the dyno typically has a specific weight that simulates the weight of your vehicle. Optimal timing advance changes based on vehicle weight. So a car tuned on a chassis dyno to be "best output" when placed back on the real road will easily be over-timed, especially a heavy car like an F-body, and the owner will never know until 2-3 years goes by and the marks show up on the tear down, they are in here asking "what caused this? It was fine for years so I am sure the tune was good..."

 

I bought an Lt1 radiator today and going to install tomorrow, so hopefully I can get my temperature Down. The Lt1 radiator is way thicker at 1 1/4" vs the 3/4" ls1 radiator. That's a great upgrade for the same price.

I also found a front steam vent kit for $44, which I'm ordering tomorrow. Time to.get this cooling problem solved once and for all.

Next question....if the car was tuned at 210 degrees, will I have to retune if it's running 195?

 

Nope. Should just run better is all

 

The oil temps should be 200*F+ (hot enough to evaporate water to some extent) before running an engine hard,

Coolant temps will vary (170-230*F), but we never run our engines before they hit operating temp (170*+). Engines which make short (cold coolant) trips frequently have poor longevity, that is, their internals suffer more wear when the engines are run cold (it is the oil we are trying to warm up quickly). In theory it should be ok to drop the coolant temp as long as the oil temp is hot, I don't see any issue with doing that for the performance boost of cold water, the problem is how do you tell your thermostat "Stay shut until 200*F so my oil warms up quickly in the morning, and then stay open as long as oil temps stay up to cool down the water", plus not all cooling systems will be able to pull the water temp back down very far (you might need an elegant/original idea)


I was thinking about this steam pipe idea and realized this is exactly the sort of thing I need to know wayyy in advance about these engines. I need a solution that does not offer a "T" idea, that is I prefer a cleaner install (No visible temporary T's bandaiding my water system). So my new question is: how do we get rid of the sight of these steam ports? How do we elegantly put them to intended use without letting them be seen?

 

LT1 radiators have a nipple surplus, I hooked all my existing
hoses right up after potting any that had no corresponding
ones on the LS1 rad.

I've seen, rarely, hybrid radiators with the LT1 core and the
LS1 end-tanks, but can't remember where or how much.

 

The Lt1 radiator bolted right up to the rubber mounts, condenser and fans with no issues at all. Pretty good mod for $105 at oreillys.

There is only 1 outlet line on the bottom of the rad on drivers side that I had to put a hose cap on.

However....after installing the Lt1 Radiator, New hoses, and 50/50 mix, my engine temp still remains about 208.

I figured with the new radiator, 160 drilled thermostat, and coolant it would go to at least 200? What gives?

I.ordered the front steam vent kit and will install this week. Is there a possibility that is keeping the temp raised?

Also, when the car is turned off after a drive, the fans do not stay running. Arent they supposed to run for a while after shutting off the engine? It seems like they run constantly while the motor is running.

I also don't think the tuner reprogrammed my fans.

 

Glad you like the LT1. I think your steam vent will make a difference. Trapped air can do lots of screwy things

 

when you get the steam vents opened up again the engine temp should go down somewhat

 

Yeah I.hope so. They should be here any day now.