Longtube Header prepping, questions..
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Longtube Header prepping, questions.. My winter project on the WS6 this year is gonna be longtubes..
So, just started to remove AIR and EGR off my '00 WS6, got entire AIR system out no problem then started on the EGR and where the EGR meets the manifold i got the top bolt out pretty easy, but how in the f*ck are you guys reaching that bottom bolt? Tried for what seemed like a year all sorts of different extensions/swivels trying to get a good line on the bolt and enough to torque it off, ended up having to leave so i can fill my *** with food..
I haven't actually ordered the headers yet, as i WAS going to go with BBK LT's with their Y, but, TSP 1 7/8 with a Y are only roughly a 100 dollars more AND they come in stainless, rather than BBK's ceramic or chrome. After searching on here for awhile i've seen where a lot of people are complaining on the fitment of TSP's Y, i plan on keeping the current Borla that's on the car now. So i'm back in the predicament i was earlier.. BBK's.. or TSP's... BBK's seem to win the fitment argument, but because of this are smaller, and aren't stainless.. whichever ones i do get will be without EGR/AIR provisions and while im in there gonna go ahead and do poly motor mounts.
So are TSP's with TSP Y REALLY that bad on fitment?
On the alternator, is the "little red wire" the black and blue connector (if your looking from under the front of the car towards the alternator) thats to the left of the alternator mounted or bolted to the side of the block? I can feel the wires going up towards the back of the altenator.. just wanted to make sure that was the wire everyone talks about breaking out when you move the alternator forward before i start tugging..
So, just started to remove AIR and EGR off my '00 WS6, got entire AIR system out no problem then started on the EGR and where the EGR meets the manifold i got the top bolt out pretty easy, but how in the f*ck are you guys reaching that bottom bolt? Tried for what seemed like a year all sorts of different extensions/swivels trying to get a good line on the bolt and enough to torque it off, ended up having to leave so i can fill my *** with food..
I haven't actually ordered the headers yet, as i WAS going to go with BBK LT's with their Y, but, TSP 1 7/8 with a Y are only roughly a 100 dollars more AND they come in stainless, rather than BBK's ceramic or chrome. After searching on here for awhile i've seen where a lot of people are complaining on the fitment of TSP's Y, i plan on keeping the current Borla that's on the car now. So i'm back in the predicament i was earlier.. BBK's.. or TSP's... BBK's seem to win the fitment argument, but because of this are smaller, and aren't stainless.. whichever ones i do get will be without EGR/AIR provisions and while im in there gonna go ahead and do poly motor mounts.
So are TSP's with TSP Y REALLY that bad on fitment?
On the alternator, is the "little red wire" the black and blue connector (if your looking from under the front of the car towards the alternator) thats to the left of the alternator mounted or bolted to the side of the block? I can feel the wires going up towards the back of the altenator.. just wanted to make sure that was the wire everyone talks about breaking out when you move the alternator forward before i start tugging..
Last edited by CruzinTA; Jan 2, 2016 at 11:28 PM.
That little red wire is the one they're talking about. I added a connector and about 2' of wire so I can disconnect and then remove the alternator without breaking it
Not sure on TSP fitment but hear good things.. I can only speak for speed engineering which fit perfect and has a lot of remove for adjustment to make a tight fit. They are priced the best in my opinion for big stainless too.Once you get all of EGR and AIR stuff out of the way it makes the rest of the job a breeze. I'm glad i didn't have to deal with the EGR on my 02.. your next favorite will be the back coil bracket bolt on the passenger side.. I left that one out when I put it back together lol
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Dayton, Ohio
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No. The passenger side was incredibly easy on both my car and my friend's. On the driver's side of my friend's car we could not get to TSP header in at first. We literally stared at it for over an hour, and were so stumped that we were about to start dropping the k member but we decided to just call it a night so I went home. Later that night, my friend (who is not very mechanically inclined at all lol) called me to tell me that he came back to it, and it just slid right in. No need to even remove the steering linkage or anything. Just sit back, look at everything, take your time, and the install will go very smoothly!
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Been lookin' into these speed engineering LT's.. I may just go go with that with being VERY affordable and stainless! Does their Y have rear O2 bungs? Wanting to run a A/F gauge (even tho i know that's not the ideal place to pick up)
I highly recommend Speed Engineering's Headers. I am very pleased with mine, and honestly believe that they are the best 1 7/8" longtubes for our cars for the price. I have no experience with their y pipe though, as I am running TSP's true dual setup behind the speed engineering headers. FWIW though, if you planned on runing an ory (thus getting rid of your cats), you will not have rear 02's anymore. They are only there to check functionality of the cats. The front 02's do all of the fueling adjustment stuff.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Dayton, Ohio
I highly recommend Speed Engineering's Headers. I am very pleased with mine, and honestly believe that they are the best 1 7/8" longtubes for our cars for the price. I have no experience with their y pipe though, as I am running TSP's true dual setup behind the speed engineering headers. FWIW though, if you planned on runing an ory (thus getting rid of your cats), you will not have rear 02's anymore. They are only there to check functionality of the cats. The front 02's do all of the fueling adjustment stuff.
Definitely go with stainless. Another suggestion is to buy ARP header studs. They make it 100x easier to install headers, and you can do it by yourself. I honestly won't do headers on our cars without them, they make it that much better.
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Wilmington, De
The header studs from Alper Motorsports work just as well as the ARP ones and are only $25. I don't do a header install without them.
Regardless of which brand stud, you will thank yourself when you don't lose hair over trying to line up the header, gasket, and bolt to get things started.
Regardless of which brand stud, you will thank yourself when you don't lose hair over trying to line up the header, gasket, and bolt to get things started.
The SE ORY has 2 rear bungs so you can tap into one for AF gauge.. I honestly went cheap and got some ebay header studs and they worked great.. seems to be great quality though for the price
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Thanks for the advice guys! That was actually my next question, was bolts/studs and gaskets, SE offers 'GM multi-layered steel gaskets and bolts" for 25 more dollars, I was just going to order fel-pro's gaskets unless these that SE offer are better?
I know it's back earlier in the thread, but the best thing to help get the drivers side in is elevation. Get the car as high as you can. That'll help get enough tilt on the header.
Another bit of advice. Change the plugs while the headers are out. You'll never have better access to the plugs.
Another bit of advice. Change the plugs while the headers are out. You'll never have better access to the plugs.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Someone also recomended to me that with the new headers on the plug wires will sit very close to the tubes, and to go ahead find some sort of wrap or cover for each wire that's heat resistant.. After just doing a vague google search there so much different **** out there i wouldn't know what's the "Go-to" I've never really noticed any other LS Fbody's with headers have special wire covers or wraps, but then again i've never looked for it
Here is my $.02 (I have done 5 sets of LT's on F-bodies)
-Remove oil filter, spark plugs and the temp sensor (so not to break it).
-Remove coil packs (and don't bother to reinstall the passenger/back bolt).
-Saw off the little 1"x1" casting block on the engine block.
-Speed Eng. headers go in like butter (SE Y-pipe not so much, I modded mine).
-Order some spark plug wire socks (wires do sit close to the 1 7/8" SE
headers).
-Highly recommend poly mounts now if you don't have them already.
See this post https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...neering+Y-pipe I have several post page 39, 40 and 46 (#918).
-Remove oil filter, spark plugs and the temp sensor (so not to break it).
-Remove coil packs (and don't bother to reinstall the passenger/back bolt).
-Saw off the little 1"x1" casting block on the engine block.
-Speed Eng. headers go in like butter (SE Y-pipe not so much, I modded mine).
-Order some spark plug wire socks (wires do sit close to the 1 7/8" SE
headers).
-Highly recommend poly mounts now if you don't have them already.
See this post https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...neering+Y-pipe I have several post page 39, 40 and 46 (#918).
Last edited by ragtopz28; Jan 5, 2016 at 05:27 PM.