1 3/4ths or 1 7/8th headers for my setup
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On The Tree
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From: Orange County, CA
1 3/4ths or 1 7/8th headers for my setup I wanted to gauge if anyone has had experience with both 1 3/4ths and 1 7/8ths headers with a similar setup to mine.
Ported 241 heads
212/218 .555/.555 115 lsa cam
underdrive pulley
going to get true duals
ls6 intake
Which one would make more power? Will I sacrifice low end power withe the 1 7/8ths?
Ported 241 heads
212/218 .555/.555 115 lsa cam
underdrive pulley
going to get true duals
ls6 intake
Which one would make more power? Will I sacrifice low end power withe the 1 7/8ths?
On The Tree
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From: Richmond, Mi
(I have 1 7\8s) Buddy of mine has a bigger cam then me with ls6 intake and tune an he has 1 3\4 and from 5k+ I make almost 10 to 19+ on top end on a dyno sheet (same dyno a week a part)but I also have slp map an Ported throttle body. Not saying that's y I made more then him but that might b a good reason 2 over the headers But every car is different.
It's been proven that 1 7/8 make more power even on bolt-on cars. I just picked a set of 1 7/8 SE headers for my bolt-on car. They're affordable, pretty easy to install and best of all give you more power and room to grow!
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On The Tree
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From: Orange County, CA
Cool, I was thinking of getting the Speed Engineering headers too, its good to hear they are easy to install.
While there are some gains in power up top, you will loose torque grunt down low on a mild setup. My real world dynojet experiences have shown 346 cube motors mimic my above statement.
Now If we are talking about max effort high compression build, the 1.875" header will shine throughout.
I always suggest 1.750" for < 12:1 N/A and even nitrous stock cube builds, and would even consider this size for 383's.
Power improvements come from collector length and design, NOT from tube size.
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Verdad Gallardo On a tuned bone stock 04 z06 switching from 1.875" to 1.750" both kooks with the merge spike in both. If recollection serves me best we gained ~10wt below 3100 and 6wt up 4800 and was down 2wt at 6400.
Whp was up by 5 after 3000 and gained 7whp by 6100.
I just swapped out my BBK 1 3/4 for 1 7/8 and the car didn't miss a beat. I wouldn't waste my time putting 1 3/4 on there you will regret it down the road when you want just a little more.
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On The Tree
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I plan on a dyno day and tune in about a month so I will see how it goes. I also have my dyno sheet from when I first got the car, so hopefully it will compare well. I'll post pix.
I also had heard both things - "get 1.75" and "any header will give you gains over stock". My car is likely not going to see heads/cams because for SCCA I want to stay in my class.
I also had heard both things - "get 1.75" and "any header will give you gains over stock". My car is likely not going to see heads/cams because for SCCA I want to stay in my class.
I went with the SE 1 7/8" for my "nitrous needs" and she rips up top. I will say I think she suffered a little bit down low (on motor). No intentions of starting an argument or rehashing the old, just my experience.
The SE headers are the easiest header install I have ever done and the price point is unreal (SS headers and Y-pipe to my door for under $400
).
The SE headers are the easiest header install I have ever done and the price point is unreal (SS headers and Y-pipe to my door for under $400
). 
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Not really. 2" headers are even worth a few hp over 1-7/8 on a stock ls3. Who cares about a few ft\lbs of torque between idle and 1500 rpm.
Absolutely correct and I've experienced the same results way back in 2004 and then again in 2005.
While there are some gains in power up top, you will loose torque grunt down low on a mild setup. My real world dynojet experiences have shown 346 cube motors mimic my above statement.
Now If we are talking about max effort high compression build, the 1.875" header will shine throughout.
I always suggest 1.750" for < 12:1 N/A and even nitrous stock cube builds, and would even consider this size for 383's.
Power improvements come from collector length and design, NOT from tube size.
While there are some gains in power up top, you will loose torque grunt down low on a mild setup. My real world dynojet experiences have shown 346 cube motors mimic my above statement.
Now If we are talking about max effort high compression build, the 1.875" header will shine throughout.
I always suggest 1.750" for < 12:1 N/A and even nitrous stock cube builds, and would even consider this size for 383's.
Power improvements come from collector length and design, NOT from tube size.
Op go 1-7/8 or get stepped headers if you can as they will bet better still. But they are very expensive so on a budget go 1-7/8
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On The Tree
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From: Orange County, CA
I went with the SE 1 7/8" for my "nitrous needs" and she rips up top. I will say I think she suffered a little bit down low (on motor). No intentions of starting an argument or rehashing the old, just my experience.
The SE headers are the easiest header install I have ever done and the price point is unreal (SS headers and Y-pipe to my door for under $400).
The SE headers are the easiest header install I have ever done and the price point is unreal (SS headers and Y-pipe to my door for under $400
).