Throttle pedal travel too long?? Is there a fix?
06-22-2016, 07:58 PM
#1
Throttle pedal travel too long?? Is there a fix? So just recently got my swap running. And to get full throttle the pedal has to travel a long way had to adjust stops, ect. Is there a way to make the lever shorter on the throttle body? Short of changing the lever on gas pedal, or get a whole new throttle pedal assembly.
06-23-2016, 12:06 AM
#2
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If it's drive by cable which I'm guessing it is then what I did was remove the cable off the throttle body and then you can get a small Allen wrench and unscrew the cable stop/clamp button thingy and shorten the cable that way. Just shorten and trim off a little at a time till you get full throttle how you want it. I had to do something similar on my 68 pro touring camaro. It basically brought the gas pedal off the floor a little so that I didn't have to bury it in the carpet to get full throttle. Hope that all made sense.
06-23-2016, 01:07 AM
#3
If it's drive by cable which I'm guessing it is then what I did was remove the cable off the throttle body and then you can get a small Allen wrench and unscrew the cable stop/clamp button thingy and shorten the cable that way. Just shorten and trim off a little at a time till you get full throttle how you want it. I had to do something similar on my 68 pro touring camaro. It basically brought the gas pedal off the floor a little so that I didn't have to bury it in the carpet to get full throttle. Hope that all made sense.
06-23-2016, 11:10 AM
#6
Are you having to bury it in the carpet or do you just not like how far the pedal moves?
The distance the pedal has to travel is based upon the distance the lever on the throttle body has to travel and the geometry of the pivot point of the gas pedal. The only way to change the distance is to change lever travel, or change the pivot point of your gas pedal.
If you are having to bury it in the carpet, then you start with cable adjustments. As you have done this, the only other way I know of is to change the geometry of the pedal assembly. Either you modify your gas pedal (bend, change pivot point, add spacer where cable attaches to lift pedal off the ground, etc.) or you see if they make an adjustable aftermarket piece to replace it with.
The distance the pedal has to travel is based upon the distance the lever on the throttle body has to travel and the geometry of the pivot point of the gas pedal. The only way to change the distance is to change lever travel, or change the pivot point of your gas pedal.
If you are having to bury it in the carpet, then you start with cable adjustments. As you have done this, the only other way I know of is to change the geometry of the pedal assembly. Either you modify your gas pedal (bend, change pivot point, add spacer where cable attaches to lift pedal off the ground, etc.) or you see if they make an adjustable aftermarket piece to replace it with.
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#13
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I have tried both. The spacer worked for a while but in
the end it got compressed and some slack came back.
You may find you're in a bind where the spacer costs
you idle-end travel instead, and with the original pedal
arm geometry there's only so much angle of travel. The
bending gives you more swept angle where the spacer
does not.
the end it got compressed and some slack came back.
You may find you're in a bind where the spacer costs
you idle-end travel instead, and with the original pedal
arm geometry there's only so much angle of travel. The
bending gives you more swept angle where the spacer
does not.
06-24-2016, 05:40 PM
#14
I have tried both. The spacer worked for a while but in
the end it got compressed and some slack came back.
You may find you're in a bind where the spacer costs
you idle-end travel instead, and with the original pedal
arm geometry there's only so much angle of travel. The
bending gives you more swept angle where the spacer
does not.
the end it got compressed and some slack came back.
You may find you're in a bind where the spacer costs
you idle-end travel instead, and with the original pedal
arm geometry there's only so much angle of travel. The
bending gives you more swept angle where the spacer
does not.
07-04-2016, 08:41 AM
#15
Bending the arm won't change the ratio. It will just move the pedal closer to you. You'll still need the same amount of pedal movement that you did before.
To change the pedal ratio, move the cable attachment point down 1/2" or so. Then you'll get more throttle blade movement for the same amount of pedal movement. Don't move it down too much, or the pedal will difficult to control at slow speeds.
To change the pedal ratio, move the cable attachment point down 1/2" or so. Then you'll get more throttle blade movement for the same amount of pedal movement. Don't move it down too much, or the pedal will difficult to control at slow speeds.
07-04-2016, 09:30 AM
#16
Bending the arm won't change the ratio. It will just move the pedal closer to you. You'll still need the same amount of pedal movement that you did before.
To change the pedal ratio, move the cable attachment point down 1/2" or so. Then you'll get more throttle blade movement for the same amount of pedal movement. Don't move it down too much, or the pedal will difficult to control at slow speeds.
To change the pedal ratio, move the cable attachment point down 1/2" or so. Then you'll get more throttle blade movement for the same amount of pedal movement. Don't move it down too much, or the pedal will difficult to control at slow speeds.
07-04-2016, 08:56 PM
#17
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-get- the travel you need with the factory arm's bend
angle, and you can change the angle to get all the
draw length you need. I've done it on mine and I've
done it on a car that showed up with only 85% max
TPS. Easy and simple and entirely effective.
If you want to drill another hole, that's a way to go I
guess, but it needs to be further out on the arm and
there's only about an inch or less from normal mount
hole to the end of the arm. So unless you are fixing to
add length to the upper arm there's limited upside.
07-05-2016, 08:40 AM
#18
This may be true but the problem is that you can't
-get- the travel you need with the factory arm's bend
angle, and you can change the angle to get all the
draw length you need. I've done it on mine and I've
done it on a car that showed up with only 85% max
TPS. Easy and simple and entirely effective.
If you want to drill another hole, that's a way to go I
guess, but it needs to be further out on the arm and
there's only about an inch or less from normal mount
hole to the end of the arm. So unless you are fixing to
add length to the upper arm there's limited upside.
-get- the travel you need with the factory arm's bend
angle, and you can change the angle to get all the
draw length you need. I've done it on mine and I've
done it on a car that showed up with only 85% max
TPS. Easy and simple and entirely effective.
If you want to drill another hole, that's a way to go I
guess, but it needs to be further out on the arm and
there's only about an inch or less from normal mount
hole to the end of the arm. So unless you are fixing to
add length to the upper arm there's limited upside.