5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

Parts needed:

SUM-300104 Breather tank - Summit
1/4" - 5/8" Hose clamps - Autozone
Brass 3/8" Hose Barb x 3/8" MIP Thread 90 Degree Elbow Fitting - ebay
Brass 3/8” Hose Barb 90 degree elbow fitting - ebay
Brass 3/8" Hose Barb x 3/8" MIP Thread Straight Fitting - Home Depot
Brass 3/8" Hose Barb T fitting - Home Depot
Brass 3/4 in FH x 3/8 in ID garden Hose LFA-683 - Home Depot

6 feet of 50250 goodyear 3/8” ID hose – Autozone
1 foot of 3/4" ID hose – Autozone
PCV valve - FRAM FV391 – Autozone
3 ft piece of steal for custom bracket, 1/8th by 3/4 by Hilman SKU 5073827 – Ace Hardware
M10 x 1.5 bolt
1/4” bolts with washers and nuts, ½ inch long (qty=2)

Tools: ¼ drill bit, ½ drill bit, hacksaw, vice, 10mm wrench or socket, screw drivers





The idea behind this setup is to keep oil out of the intake manifold while still being able to vent the crank case. You will want to route the lines as such:



I used the existing plastic factory hose leading into the driver side valve cover because I didn’t feel like removing the valve cover to replace the grommet. This piece here:



If you want to not use the stock piece and run your own 3/8 tubing to the driver side valve cover, I recommend:

DORMAN 42056 pcv valve grommet O’Reilly Autoparts
Watts Nylon Hose barb A-295 3/8 in ID x ¼ in MIP – Home Depot



Here is the breather can:



Ignore the 90 brass elbow fitting on the right side as seen in the pic below, you will want to use a 3/8 straight fitting on the right side instead. You will need to make a custom bracket for this can. I used a 1/8th by 3/4 peice of steal from Ace Hardware, SKU 5073827 and drilled 2 holes 1/4 diameter to secure the can, and another hole to bolt to the passenger side head that accepts a M10 x 1.5 bolt. I used a 20 degree bend on the mounting bracket to get the necessary clearance:





Coming out of the 3/8 straight barb on the right side of the can is a small piece of 3/8 tubing that leads to the 3/8" side of the PCV valve. The other side of the pcv valve which is 3/4" goes to another small 3/4" ID hose, which goes into the brass 3/4 in FH x 3/8 in ID garden Hose LFA-683 seen in the 2nd picture above. From there, another small 3/8" hose connects to the 3/8 barb on the intake manifold just behind the throttle body. Here's a close up:



Engine bay shot:



Whether you use a Mike Norris, Mighty Mouse, this Summit can, or anything else.... the end goal is the same. Keep oil out of the intake manifold caused by blow by while providing fresh air to the intake manifold and allowing the engine to breathe while not stinking up the cabin. Some folks prefer a dual catch can setup, some prefer a baffled can, some prefer to make their own baffle using scotch bright pads, or Shop-vac Small Foam Sleeve Filter Model # SHO9052600 from Home Depot, some say this method is better than that method, some cap off certain ports, some route the lines differently, there are several variations.

I'm going to try this for while and see how it works. I may remove the breather and seal the top of the can off if the odors find their way into the cabin, or I may try a different type of can. We'll see how this goes.

DavidBoren

Nice write-up. Very thorough with the pictures and the part numbers.

I may suggest also putting a check valve in the hose between the valve cover and throttle body. It is simple insurance against any reversion that may pull oil from the valve cover during WOT.

I have a dual-inlet catch can and will be using very similar routing to your diagram, with the addition of a hose going from an LS6 valley cover to the second inlet on my catch can.

Keep us updated on how well it works for you.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

What purpose does this serve ?

Great write up btw

Dimeomboost

it helps ppl like me not blow the rear main seal so much from crankcase pressure do to turbo pressurizing everything amd removing then factory pcv setup. a lot of ppl just use breathers but theres downsides to it like smell and oil film on eveeything some ppl even blow out the dipstick from the tube

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

Oh OK thanks!

DavidBoren

The motor is going to create pressure in the crankcase. Pressure needs to be released or **** starts to break. Given that the crankcase is full of oil, there is a large amount of oil droplets suspended in the air inside the motor. When this air is vented to the atmosphere to relieve the pressure, those oil droplets escape into the atmosphere... all over your engine bay, fumes make it into the cabin, oh and the EPA has forbidden the venting of crankcase gases into the atmosphere.

SO, closed loop PCV systems were adopted to recirculate the air vented from the crankcase into the intake manifold. This brings all those oil droplets into the combustion chambers, for it to burn, and be sent into the catalytic converters... in theory... according to the EPA. Oil doesn't burn as fast or as hot as the fuel in the combustion chamber so it really hurts performance. Oil burning in the combustion chamber creates soot that clogs catalytic converters. Oil being in the intake tract coats intake valves with sludge. It is all your typical EPA cluster ****.

So, we introduce a catch can to hopefully catch all the oil droplets from the gases being vented from the crankcase. Whether you are going to vent to the atmosphere, because **** the EPA, or if you are going to remain closed loop and vent into the intake manifold, a catch can is still hugely beneficial... or can be.

PS. I just really hate the EPA as a fraudulent government organization, I actually do care quite a bit about the environment, and would prefer people to not haphazardly vent motor oil into the atmosphere.

farmington

iTrader: (14)

doesnt this introduce a vacuum leak into the system though?

fastlt1

iTrader: (4)

Did i miss iit but why garden hose end. Is the pcv valve threaded or just ttwisting it on hose.

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

Its pushed on to the hose. You need to go from a 3/8th npt female on the catch can to a PCV back to a 3/8 hose to fit the intake and to include the pcv and still have enough clearance, this is the best way.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

pressure will take the path of least resistance to equalize, so atmosphere could be going directly in from the breather to the can and completely defeating PCV function.

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

If the breather is an issue, replace with cap. I couldn't find a 1-3/8" rubber cap which is exactly the inner diameter size needed for this catch can. Couldn't find a 1.25 or 1.5 either. I wound up buying another cheap replacement filter off ebay that had that ID, and made my own cap by just cuting out the filter portion and JB welding the top to the bottom. A thick rubber band with a clamp over it makes for a nice seal.

DavidBoren

There shouldn't be a vacuum leak if done correctly. It can still be a closed loop system, you simply are adding a can to catch oil droplets. Although, when using a catch can with a breather, there is the chance of allowing unmetered air into the system at WOT, if the catch can doesn't have a one way valve at the filter/vent.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

without a breather the can is only as good as any other closed can, and blowby will leave the fresh air line (stock to top of throttle body, also note does not have a catch can on it) with oil and will begin to build crankcase pressure.

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

If the use of a breather on the can defeats the PCV function, wouldn't putting a cap on the can enable the PCV to function, and any blowby from the can will make contact with the PCV valve before it gets to the top of the throttle body? Maybe use some scotch bright pad material in the can?

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

Yes a closed vacuum loop will keep pcv functioning, but once you close that off you are only catching oil and not adding ventilation capability for your higher than stock power level. in addition 100% of the blowby fumes will be force consumed, not the greatest to make power with blowby fumes vs. fresh air.

steel wool would be an absolute no for packing material, or anything with detaching/rusting abrasive particles we don't want getting inhaled by the engine.

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

Doesn't the stock PCV system and tubes with no catch can have no ventilation capability either though? Wouldn't the blowby fumes be force consumed also in that senario?

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

MM, how do you do it?

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

yes legal / stock is to reclaim all the fumes 100% of the time.

the million dollar question!

this video may help

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

So where would your closed catch can system come into play on my setup? Would you replace the can that I'm using and remove the PCV or...? Would I not achieve the similar effect by capping off this can? I ask because when I pull the car into the garage, the smell is less than desireable due to the breather. If the car was parked outside, that is one thing, but it's garaged and I don't want to have to wait hours everytime I pull the car in to close the garage door. Ideally I don't want oil in the intake, I don't want to damage my rear main seal due to increased pressure, and I don't want to deal with the fumes. When the setup was stock and the rear main started leaking, which has since been replaced. What then would be the best solution?

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

Bump!