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Hey guys I cross threaded the manifold threads on the heads and I was wondering if I could just tap and dye it? I just cross threaded the first couple threads.
If you have room then get a tapered tap and clean it up. A tapered tap will start past the cross threaded area and get in the good threads so it will ensure you are tapping it straight and then as the tap gets bigger it will start cutting into the damaged threads. Use some tap lube. If you want you can finish up with a bottom tap to ensure the entire hole is cleaned up.
Ok so I tapped it, but it didn't still didn't go in straight. I tapped it in about a quarter inch. The bolt goes right in for that quarter inch and gets tight. Any idea on how to fix this? Or shall just tighten the bolt this way?
Those are header studs. I always pick up a set from Alper Motorsports when doing headers. Thread the studs in, install the gasket, slip on the header, and torque the nuts to 25 ft/lb. Done.
I wouldn't worry about warping the flange. Even the cheapy LS headers have a 3/8" thick flange. One missing bolt isn't going to hurt anything. Obviously, it is better to fix the threads, but if you are making things worse, just leave it out. MLS gaskets and the 3/8" flange will take care of everything.
Didn't even know those existed! Wish I would have known about them earlier. I'm using the huron turbo headers which is why I'm worried I most likely will leave it. Watching videos about helicoil, but I might make shii worse!
As that hole sits in the picture, it should be able to be chased and the threads corrected. If you take the tap and spin it backwards, as if you were loosening a bolt, you should be able to feel it find the threads with a little skip. When you feel it skip, try getting it started with your fingers before using a tap handle.
And yes, you absolutely must be straight when drilling for a helicoil, but you should be able to salvage what is already there.
So the hole in the picture was before I tapped it. I tapped it about a quarter inch so now the bolt goes in a quarter inch and then clashes with the old thread because I threaded it straight when it needed to be at an angle. Do you think I can still chase the hole?
Those are header studs. I always pick up a set from Alper Motorsports when doing headers. Thread the studs in, install the gasket, slip on the header, and torque the nuts to 25 ft/lb. Done.
I wouldn't worry about warping the flange. Even the cheapy LS headers have a 3/8" thick flange. One missing bolt isn't going to hurt anything. Obviously, it is better to fix the threads, but if you are making things worse, just leave it out. MLS gaskets and the 3/8" flange will take care of everything.
I'm glad you posted these? How durable are these since you use them a lot? I ask becuase these are CONSODERABLY cheaper than the arp head stud kit. Just makes me think they are really cheap made is all. Your input would be nice
They are durable. I have had a set on my daily-driven Silverado for almost two years now. I have had a set on my GTO for over three years now, and have removed the headers a couple times and reinstalled without issue. I've installed them on a handful of other vehicles, but I don't have any long term input from those installs. They key is to put anti-seize on the threads going into the head and hand-tighten the stud into the head. Torque the nut to 25 ft/lbs. The ARPs have a nicer finish to them over these with fancier 12-point nuts, but the Alper studs still look good and, more importantly, clamp the header to the head.
I want to point out that these are header studs; not head studs.
Correct. Head(er) studs. That's what I'm wanting. I'm going to order these and give a shot. I hand tighten my new kooks bolts into the new heads and those kooks bolts have a lot of wiggle and play in the bolt hole. Gave me an uneasy feeling about trying to torque them regardless of the low torque spec. I'll just order these instead.
to avoid this in the future try keeping everything super-clean, i.e. use brake cleaner and a small pick, and some towels to clean each threaded hole, and chase them out with an appropriate tap, again cleaning as you go.
That way when you go to install the bolt finally, you can hand tight it by feeling it first couple of threads, to ensure it does not strip. You won't strip it with your hand tightening. That only happens when you put a tool on it to force it, and the dirt/filth is what creates the issue given everything else is true.
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