Mild LS1 Build.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 78
Likes: 9
Mild LS1 Build. My old 2002 WS6 has just turned 105,000 miles and I want to warm it up but I'm not looking to go to radical. I've put Bilstein shocks all around along with LCR's, relocation brackets and sub-frame connectors. My T-56 stuck in fourth gear so I replaced it with a Tranzilla from Rockland Standard and a new Spec 3 clutch. I live in Wyoming where distances between cities can be long and speed limits high (80MPH on interstates and 70 MPH on back country 2 lanes) so I don't want to destroy gas mileage.
After following LS1 Tech for the last 7 or 8 years and listening to the advice of those who have gone before, my plan is to install headers, duals and heads. No cam immediately since I may go procharger down the road and I don't want to do it twice. My reasoning is that I need to build the basics before going inside.
I'm retired so unlimited funds are a dream plus, I have another expensive hobby. Rifles and elk hunting.
Any reason my limited build wouldn't give me some improved performance and lay a foundation for future mods?
After following LS1 Tech for the last 7 or 8 years and listening to the advice of those who have gone before, my plan is to install headers, duals and heads. No cam immediately since I may go procharger down the road and I don't want to do it twice. My reasoning is that I need to build the basics before going inside.
I'm retired so unlimited funds are a dream plus, I have another expensive hobby. Rifles and elk hunting.
Any reason my limited build wouldn't give me some improved performance and lay a foundation for future mods?
Last edited by OLDWS6; Mar 5, 2017 at 02:04 AM.
Ive had everything your considering. Heres what I recommend for best bang for your buck with the most noticeable gains.
1. Airlid
2. Longtube headers.
3. Since you mentioned long distance driving, go with a good flowing catback with a switch activated cutout in the "I" pipe and a good Y merge pipe over the duals. The SLP 2OTL was my favorite setup.
4. Cam, pushrods, valve springs. Pick a cam that works well with the Procharger.
5. Gears. with a 6 speed and eventually a Procharger, go 3:73s
6. Dyno tune
1. Airlid
2. Longtube headers.
3. Since you mentioned long distance driving, go with a good flowing catback with a switch activated cutout in the "I" pipe and a good Y merge pipe over the duals. The SLP 2OTL was my favorite setup.
4. Cam, pushrods, valve springs. Pick a cam that works well with the Procharger.
5. Gears. with a 6 speed and eventually a Procharger, go 3:73s
6. Dyno tune
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 78
Likes: 9
Well, I got the answers I expected. If I go with a cam along with heads $1500 min, exhaust another grand I am looking at $2500. Gaskets, fasteners and misc can add up another $500. Add a cam, $400, Lifters, another $250 to $500. Pushrods another $150. Oil pump, another $150. Valve springs and retainers, $200 to $300. While in there, an ATI balancer wouldn't be a bad idea, another $400+.
The whole idea was to set a goal and do the mods in stages as the budget allows. It sounds like I should go all or nothing. Since I can't afford everything all at once maybe I should forget the whole idea and build another rifle.
The whole idea was to set a goal and do the mods in stages as the budget allows. It sounds like I should go all or nothing. Since I can't afford everything all at once maybe I should forget the whole idea and build another rifle.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 4
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Now your talking. Let's start with a Jim Borden action 1400, Bartlien barrel 340, Chambering, fluting, etc 425, McMillan edge stock 675, jewel trigger 250, bedding 200, CeraKote 200, New dies, brass, powder, and bullets for load development 250 (rifle dyno time). Well back to the engine work maybe.
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2017
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Now your talking. Let's start with a Jim Borden action 1400, Bartlien barrel 340, Chambering, fluting, etc 425, McMillan edge stock 675, jewel trigger 250, bedding 200, CeraKote 200, New dies, brass, powder, and bullets for load development 250 (rifle dyno time). Well back to the engine work maybe.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2017
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Wow, talking about hijacking your own thread.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 4
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OK, thanks for the Smith and let me get your thread back on topic. Buy a used pair of 243 heads 400 and send to AI (not Ackley Imp) for their 226 cnc port and cam package with something like their 226/234 113 lsa .626/.626 lift cam. So for 2500 total gives you a pair of killer heads with BTR 660 springs, titanium retainers, lifters, pushrods, head gaskets. Important-get AI to match the cam and heads for your application as they can mill to reach your desired comp ratio and correctly forecast your correct pushrod length. Atdd some Straub trunnions 160, Morel 6504 lifters 200, ls6 ported oil pump 160, ls2 chain or set if needed. That will equil .25 moa if you get my drift. Oh, is that 6.5 x 280AI any different in dimensions than a 6.5 Sherman?
Last edited by oklahomaboy; Mar 7, 2017 at 07:40 AM.
Just go shoot some 22's out of a heritage six shooter. It's not like you can ride the damn bullet. LOL
Bolt ons will make the car a like a new toy without a cam or heads. I would consider what was mentioned above about an exhaust all the way out the back if your gonna drive long distances at 80mph. The in cab noise would be unbearable with turn downs before the axle. Borla with a specific E cut out is my favorite for aftermarket. Factory muffler with E cut out before the axle is my other favorite with GOOD 1 7/8 headers and Y. (American Racing if your budget allows)
Bolt ons will make the car a like a new toy without a cam or heads. I would consider what was mentioned above about an exhaust all the way out the back if your gonna drive long distances at 80mph. The in cab noise would be unbearable with turn downs before the axle. Borla with a specific E cut out is my favorite for aftermarket. Factory muffler with E cut out before the axle is my other favorite with GOOD 1 7/8 headers and Y. (American Racing if your budget allows)
Boltons might make you happy for awhile, but you will get use to it very quick and will be wanting more. From my personal experience, Just bolt ons will leave you unsatisfied.
Think about this option. Buy a used P1SC procharger from this site, 42lb injectors, and an intank fuel pump. And to be budget friendly, Run the stock manifolds, stock Y pipe and install your choice of catback. You'll still make 450rwhp with 8 psi on pump gas with stock manifolds. Want more, throw headers and a cam in and make well into the 500's. Its not as cheap as boltons but its going to give you some serious power that you can really feel and room to grow.
Its easy to think "just bolt ons" because its easy on the wallet and you can add heads and cam later and thats route I and alot of other people go but then regret it. Boltons ---> Cam and gears ---> Heads and a FAST intake and TB, and then your thinking damn, with the money I just spent, I shoulda just went with a D1SC procharger.
Think about this option. Buy a used P1SC procharger from this site, 42lb injectors, and an intank fuel pump. And to be budget friendly, Run the stock manifolds, stock Y pipe and install your choice of catback. You'll still make 450rwhp with 8 psi on pump gas with stock manifolds. Want more, throw headers and a cam in and make well into the 500's. Its not as cheap as boltons but its going to give you some serious power that you can really feel and room to grow.
Its easy to think "just bolt ons" because its easy on the wallet and you can add heads and cam later and thats route I and alot of other people go but then regret it. Boltons ---> Cam and gears ---> Heads and a FAST intake and TB, and then your thinking damn, with the money I just spent, I shoulda just went with a D1SC procharger.
Last edited by 30th t/a; Mar 7, 2017 at 11:46 AM.
