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Old Jul 22, 2017 | 05:15 AM
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Default Intake Removal

What's the best tool to remove intake manifold on 98-02 ls1?
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Old Jul 22, 2017 | 07:23 PM
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Sorry that question doesn't make sense.
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Old Jul 22, 2017 | 07:35 PM
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The best tool is using the search function.

There is no specialty tool to remove the intake manifold, other than the fuel line disconnect tool.
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Old Jul 22, 2017 | 07:45 PM
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- fuel line disconnect
- 8mm gear wrench
- small Flathead screwdriver for random ***** and giggles
- a search will have step by step process, it's straight forward
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Old Jul 23, 2017 | 02:59 PM
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My problem is that my hands have a hard time reaching to the back bolts it why..
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Old Jul 23, 2017 | 04:52 PM
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Use this howto. For the back bolts use small pieces of rubber hose to hold up the bolts while you slide it out.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5
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Old Jul 23, 2017 | 07:12 PM
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i never do that but try lol !! use 1/4 drive 8mm" universal socket with long extension attached to electrical drill

usually we remove 6 bolts and the rear 4 bolts just hold them and pull intake out
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 07:45 AM
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I've never had a problem using a 1/4" drive ratchet with 8mm Allen socket. Usually reaches just over the fuel rail and allows it to ratchet.

You can remove the coils for more room and also cut the sharks teeth off the bottom of the cowl.
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
I've never had a problem using a 1/4" drive ratchet with 8mm Allen socket. Usually reaches just over the fuel rail and allows it to ratchet.
This is what I did.

Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
You can remove the coils for more room and also cut the sharks teeth off the bottom of the cowl.
I don't think moving the coils is all that helpful but cutting the shark teeth off the bottom of the cowl is a good idea. I cut the **** out of myself pulling my intake manifold off yesterday.

Last edited by Spamfritter; Jul 24, 2017 at 08:25 AM.
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Spamfritter
This is what I did.I don't think moving the coils is all that helpful but cutting the shark teeth off the bottom of the cowl is a good idea. I cut the **** out of myself pulling my intake manifold off yesterday.
Lol! First time I did it, I caught **** from guys at work the next day. Said I looked like I lost a fight with a cat
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 04:09 PM
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Pre removal, use a shop vac or your wife's vacuum to remove any dirt or debris on the intake before removal. Easiest to remove fuel rail first then vacuum

I usually never disconnect the rail from the hose, I just remove the rail to better access the intake bolts for removal, or installation. Leaving the fuel rail off makes it a lot to easier to fit your torque wrench on all of the intake bolts

1. Disconnect hose to brake booster

2. Disconnect pcv hose to rear pass side valve cover

3. Loop brake booster hose back around the rear intake manifold and lay it over the top making sure it is clear of the oil pressure switch

4. Reach back and disconnect hvac hose from rear pass side of intake

5. Disconnect throttle cables and loop them out of the engine bay back to the drivers side across the strut tower

6. Un bolt fuel rail from intake

7. Disconnect evap solenoid wire, disconnect hose to evap solenoid, lay the solenoid over to the front of the manifold

8.. Spray wd40 or lubricant onto lower injectors and remove fuel rail and set to the side of shock tower on drivers side

9. Remove lid, maf, iac, disconnect tps.

10. Loosen all intake manifold bolts and remove the front bolts where possible

11. Loosen the 4 rearward bolts and using tape, zip ties, or clothes pin clips, leave them raised to slide intake out

12. Gently wiggle intake manifold and begin to slide it forward. Make sure to feel around the back and disconnect map sensor when you are able to reach it after sliding the intake a few inches foreward.

Slowly lift and remove the intake. The throttle body will hit the water pump when you slide forward, at that point you can easily access the rear map sensor wiring. After you have verified all rear hoses and sensors are clear you can lift the intake up and remove it

That's how I do it, usually get it removed in under 15 minutes

Last edited by chrysler kid; Jul 24, 2017 at 04:14 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 04:16 PM
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When installing my FAST I loosened the K Member bolts about a 1/2in.
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 05:18 PM
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Nice write up, Chrysler -- With aftermarket heads - especially if the intake runners are raised, you can't get the fuel rail off the manifold, because you lose cowl clearance, unless you drop the K like bbond says.

If you're REALLY struggling to get your gorilla hands in there, removing the brake booster helps alot - at least on the drivers side.
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by chrysler kid
Pre removal, use a shop vac or your wife's vacuum to remove any dirt or debris on the intake before removal. Easiest to remove fuel rail first then vacuum

I usually never disconnect the rail from the hose, I just remove the rail to better access the intake bolts for removal, or installation. Leaving the fuel rail off makes it a lot to easier to fit your torque wrench on all of the intake bolts

1. Disconnect hose to brake booster

2. Disconnect pcv hose to rear pass side valve cover

3. Loop brake booster hose back around the rear intake manifold and lay it over the top making sure it is clear of the oil pressure switch

4. Reach back and disconnect hvac hose from rear pass side of intake

5. Disconnect throttle cables and loop them out of the engine bay back to the drivers side across the strut tower

6. Un bolt fuel rail from intake

7. Disconnect evap solenoid wire, disconnect hose to evap solenoid, lay the solenoid over to the front of the manifold

8.. Spray wd40 or lubricant onto lower injectors and remove fuel rail and set to the side of shock tower on drivers side

9. Remove lid, maf, iac, disconnect tps.

10. Loosen all intake manifold bolts and remove the front bolts where possible

11. Loosen the 4 rearward bolts and using tape, zip ties, or clothes pin clips, leave them raised to slide intake out

12. Gently wiggle intake manifold and begin to slide it forward. Make sure to feel around the back and disconnect map sensor when you are able to reach it after sliding the intake a few inches foreward.

Slowly lift and remove the intake. The throttle body will hit the water pump when you slide forward, at that point you can easily access the rear map sensor wiring. After you have verified all rear hoses and sensors are clear you can lift the intake up and remove it

That's how I do it, usually get it removed in under 15 minutes
lucky for me, my bay is so clean I could lick just about anything lol
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Old Jul 25, 2017 | 07:34 AM
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With a fast 78/90/92 You do not need to lower the k member

For your first time removing it plan to take 3 hours to remove and re install the intake
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by chrysler kid
Pre removal, use a shop vac or your wife's vacuum to remove any dirt or debris on the intake before removal. Easiest to remove fuel rail first then vacuum

I usually never disconnect the rail from the hose, I just remove the rail to better access the intake bolts for removal, or installation. Leaving the fuel rail off makes it a lot to easier to fit your torque wrench on all of the intake bolts

1. Disconnect hose to brake booster

2. Disconnect pcv hose to rear pass side valve cover

3. Loop brake booster hose back around the rear intake manifold and lay it over the top making sure it is clear of the oil pressure switch

4. Reach back and disconnect hvac hose from rear pass side of intake

5. Disconnect throttle cables and loop them out of the engine bay back to the drivers side across the strut tower

6. Un bolt fuel rail from intake

7. Disconnect evap solenoid wire, disconnect hose to evap solenoid, lay the solenoid over to the front of the manifold

8.. Spray wd40 or lubricant onto lower injectors and remove fuel rail and set to the side of shock tower on drivers side

9. Remove lid, maf, iac, disconnect tps.

10. Loosen all intake manifold bolts and remove the front bolts where possible

11. Loosen the 4 rearward bolts and using tape, zip ties, or clothes pin clips, leave them raised to slide intake out

12. Gently wiggle intake manifold and begin to slide it forward. Make sure to feel around the back and disconnect map sensor when you are able to reach it after sliding the intake a few inches foreward.

Slowly lift and remove the intake. The throttle body will hit the water pump when you slide forward, at that point you can easily access the rear map sensor wiring. After you have verified all rear hoses and sensors are clear you can lift the intake up and remove it

That's how I do it, usually get it removed in under 15 minutes
wife's vacuum 😂😂 I just bought her a new one 2 days ago lol
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 07:55 AM
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I do it all the time. She got a bissel pro heat carpet cleaner with the remote cleaner attachment, you better believe I was out there two days later using it to clean my carpet and my seats. Just make sure you clean everything out before she gets home
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 10:12 PM
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Let's hope there's no surprises when you get it off.
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by chrysler kid
I do it all the time. She got a bissel pro heat carpet cleaner with the remote cleaner attachment, you better believe I was out there two days later using it to clean my carpet and my seats. Just make sure you clean everything out before she gets home
that's awesome 😂
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
Let's hope there's no surprises when you get it off.
I'm hoping mine looks like that! It'll give me something to do lol also got an egr delete so I wanna take the intake off after 40k miles to see if there's a difference cleanliness wise. I only have 40274 miles on mine right now did the delete right at 40k
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