Intake Removal
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You can remove the coils for more room and also cut the sharks teeth off the bottom of the cowl.
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I don't think moving the coils is all that helpful but cutting the shark teeth off the bottom of the cowl is a good idea. I cut the **** out of myself pulling my intake manifold off yesterday.
Last edited by Spamfritter; Jul 24, 2017 at 08:25 AM.
I usually never disconnect the rail from the hose, I just remove the rail to better access the intake bolts for removal, or installation. Leaving the fuel rail off makes it a lot to easier to fit your torque wrench on all of the intake bolts
1. Disconnect hose to brake booster
2. Disconnect pcv hose to rear pass side valve cover
3. Loop brake booster hose back around the rear intake manifold and lay it over the top making sure it is clear of the oil pressure switch
4. Reach back and disconnect hvac hose from rear pass side of intake
5. Disconnect throttle cables and loop them out of the engine bay back to the drivers side across the strut tower
6. Un bolt fuel rail from intake
7. Disconnect evap solenoid wire, disconnect hose to evap solenoid, lay the solenoid over to the front of the manifold
8.. Spray wd40 or lubricant onto lower injectors and remove fuel rail and set to the side of shock tower on drivers side
9. Remove lid, maf, iac, disconnect tps.
10. Loosen all intake manifold bolts and remove the front bolts where possible
11. Loosen the 4 rearward bolts and using tape, zip ties, or clothes pin clips, leave them raised to slide intake out
12. Gently wiggle intake manifold and begin to slide it forward. Make sure to feel around the back and disconnect map sensor when you are able to reach it after sliding the intake a few inches foreward.
Slowly lift and remove the intake. The throttle body will hit the water pump when you slide forward, at that point you can easily access the rear map sensor wiring. After you have verified all rear hoses and sensors are clear you can lift the intake up and remove it
That's how I do it, usually get it removed in under 15 minutes
Last edited by chrysler kid; Jul 24, 2017 at 04:14 PM.
If you're REALLY struggling to get your gorilla hands in there, removing the brake booster helps alot - at least on the drivers side.
I usually never disconnect the rail from the hose, I just remove the rail to better access the intake bolts for removal, or installation. Leaving the fuel rail off makes it a lot to easier to fit your torque wrench on all of the intake bolts
1. Disconnect hose to brake booster
2. Disconnect pcv hose to rear pass side valve cover
3. Loop brake booster hose back around the rear intake manifold and lay it over the top making sure it is clear of the oil pressure switch
4. Reach back and disconnect hvac hose from rear pass side of intake
5. Disconnect throttle cables and loop them out of the engine bay back to the drivers side across the strut tower
6. Un bolt fuel rail from intake
7. Disconnect evap solenoid wire, disconnect hose to evap solenoid, lay the solenoid over to the front of the manifold
8.. Spray wd40 or lubricant onto lower injectors and remove fuel rail and set to the side of shock tower on drivers side
9. Remove lid, maf, iac, disconnect tps.
10. Loosen all intake manifold bolts and remove the front bolts where possible
11. Loosen the 4 rearward bolts and using tape, zip ties, or clothes pin clips, leave them raised to slide intake out
12. Gently wiggle intake manifold and begin to slide it forward. Make sure to feel around the back and disconnect map sensor when you are able to reach it after sliding the intake a few inches foreward.
Slowly lift and remove the intake. The throttle body will hit the water pump when you slide forward, at that point you can easily access the rear map sensor wiring. After you have verified all rear hoses and sensors are clear you can lift the intake up and remove it
That's how I do it, usually get it removed in under 15 minutes
I usually never disconnect the rail from the hose, I just remove the rail to better access the intake bolts for removal, or installation. Leaving the fuel rail off makes it a lot to easier to fit your torque wrench on all of the intake bolts
1. Disconnect hose to brake booster
2. Disconnect pcv hose to rear pass side valve cover
3. Loop brake booster hose back around the rear intake manifold and lay it over the top making sure it is clear of the oil pressure switch
4. Reach back and disconnect hvac hose from rear pass side of intake
5. Disconnect throttle cables and loop them out of the engine bay back to the drivers side across the strut tower
6. Un bolt fuel rail from intake
7. Disconnect evap solenoid wire, disconnect hose to evap solenoid, lay the solenoid over to the front of the manifold
8.. Spray wd40 or lubricant onto lower injectors and remove fuel rail and set to the side of shock tower on drivers side
9. Remove lid, maf, iac, disconnect tps.
10. Loosen all intake manifold bolts and remove the front bolts where possible
11. Loosen the 4 rearward bolts and using tape, zip ties, or clothes pin clips, leave them raised to slide intake out
12. Gently wiggle intake manifold and begin to slide it forward. Make sure to feel around the back and disconnect map sensor when you are able to reach it after sliding the intake a few inches foreward.
Slowly lift and remove the intake. The throttle body will hit the water pump when you slide forward, at that point you can easily access the rear map sensor wiring. After you have verified all rear hoses and sensors are clear you can lift the intake up and remove it
That's how I do it, usually get it removed in under 15 minutes










