Talking about the electric motor on the fan itself...

Ordered a FORD Taurus fan from Dorman. Have it wired with a 90a solenoid 4 ga pwr/grnd wire. I’ve run tons of these fans over the years and never had an issue. Cruising around town I smoked a the fan motor. Literally had smoke pouring out from under the hood.

Previously ran a 100a fuse inline and replaced that with a 60a breaker. Ordered a new fan and replaced it. Wiring all checks out fine. Not popping breaker. Back of the fan after a 30-40 min cruise is 240-245 or so. Seem excessively hot IMO. Set to kick the fan on at 190 and off at 185. Cools great. Anyone know if this is the norm for one of these fan motors? Seems crazy hot to me.

thanks

 

100a inline fuse for a cooling fan. Jesus. (i realized why you sized it that way but ****, I never heard of that)

 

These are serious fans... kick the pants off most of the aftermarket fans out there.

The Taurus fan on high is known to pull around 60A on startup. I used an amp wiring kit to wire it and it had come with a 100A fuse. So I just went with it. Now has a 60a breaker and has never tripped it. But 240* seems overly hot is all.


I’m guessing this is just the result of cheap manufacturing and the fan motors aren’t what they use to be… just wanted to double check and see if anyone else has noticed the fan motor temps being super hot. Didn't want to smoke another one... I can probably rewire it on the low setting. It might cool fine.


Retardo huge fan motor…



Think I have the supply and grounds covered. Heres’ the 90a Golf cart relay.

 

Seems odd unless the Doorman's are junk. You sure you got polarity right on the motor and its not pushing by accident? Otherwise, have you tried running it with the engine off on a battery charger and see if it starts to get warm and overheat without the engine running? Maybe the motor can't handle the underhood heat itself. The gauge of the wiring and fuse has zero to do with the motor overheating, any restriction or reduction in current to the motor would have it running cooler not hotter as it wouldn't be dissipating as much electrical power.

 

Size/gauge of the wiring has everything to do with the heat of the motor. If there is too much voltage drop due to a too small cable, then the current draw will be higher and cause the motors to run hotter.

However, having seen the size of that wiring i don't think its the issue here.The short length of cable won't have any major voltage drop across its length to cause a high current situation.

 

Its not about current it's about power. Less voltage more current, yes.....but the same power.

 

Unless I’m just paranoid now and 240-250 is normal, I don’t know what else to do. I run 2 40a relays in parallel with 10g wire on my Rx-7 and its been going strong for 7-8 years now. I guess I’ve never checked the motor temps before. Maybe I’ll do that this weekend.

On a side note I replaced the $12 china 90a solenoid with a known $25 Cole Hersee 85a cont. solenoid. No change. But I did notice the solenoid itself was around 125*. Though the surrounding area in the wheel well is 100ish anyway. So I assume this is acceptable.

 

But is the fan in the rx7 a doorman or an OEM? I got the impression from your first post this is your first time with a doorman fan instead of an OEM. It's very possible the motor isn't built as well as the stock stuff and runs hotter.

 

Yes. More current equals more heat in the motor windings.

 

That's only an issue if the current exceeds the rating of the motor....which is not likely an issue based on how OP has it wired.