Originally Posted by 00pooterSS

Make sure you drive a 2014+ truck first. The NNBS trucks feel good but there's an unparalleled level of refinement feeling to the 14+

I keep looking at the 07-13 trucks and want a 6.2 truck BAD but man the 07-13 truck feels cheap in several ways to me and I work on them a lot. And all the things I do to them that I've never had to even consider doing on my 04 keeps discouraging me from getting one. There's things I love about them and hate. The 14+ trucks won't be in budget till next year so I'll wait to upgrade my truck or just keep mine forever. The newer gen trucks don't hold up as well as the NBS truck did. The NBS was one of those vehicles a manufacturer just got everything right on as far as durability. Everything lasts almost forever on them. I've had some 14+ come in with busted a/c lines and/or condensers with low mileage and googling it it's a common issue. Like 10-30k low mileage. It's frustrating when you're considering buying one and having owned a NBS that's at 190k and only needed a water pump and that's it in it's whole life. Other than that just maintenance.. rear brake pads, belts and fluids, and tires. Not a single thing else. Not even front pads yet.

Originally Posted by RedRocketZ28

Good point. I am not sure the NNBS would be worth the extra money at this point. I really like the 16+ front end but those trucks aren't in my price range right now. I think I'd be extremely happy DD'ing and towing with a NNBS 6.2L though.

My 03 1500HD only has 56k miles on it. I just wish it pulled better and got slightly better MPG. I also have a few little quirks with mine that I really need to address. One being that the ABS kicks in while coming to a stop and the other is the converter unlocking at highway speeds and will take a few miles to lock back up. This continues over and over.

Originally Posted by wannafbody

GM really dropped the ball by putting the 5.3 in trucks instead of the 5.7.

Originally Posted by tech@WS6store

The locking and unlocking part is due to misfires normally. usually from blowby/oil consumption, odd maf readings, oil buildup on spark plugs, odd map readings, or weak coils. A partially failed oil pressure sensor can do that also. Since the ops and map share the 5v reference itll show odd map readings even tho the map is ok.
Ask me how i know.

Abs part is normally from dirty sensors, rings, or failing hubs. esp low speed activation. gm has a tsb about it.

Originally Posted by RedRocketZ28

I have the misfire table completely maxed out in the tune. I know anything can happen but the truck only has 56k on it. I plan to scan everything while driving and see what happens when it unlocks. I am going to try putting the stock tune back in too and see if that does anything. Have you heard anything about a CASE Relearn fixing weird issues? I have read on some other forums that guys have done this and it worked. It seems to be a fairly common problem for these things but I haven't really found much for answers.

The ABS thing has to be something with my front right hub/ABS sensor as when it kicks in the wheel wants to go to the left. I am going to pull the sensor out and see what it looks like. I have read about this issue as well and once again it's fairly common. It hasn't really bothered me enough to look at it yet since it only does it coming up to a stop and at less than 5 MPH. I just don't want it to get worse as I know that could be quite scary if it happened on the highway.

Maybe it IS time to unload it? Ha.

Originally Posted by gagliano7

I had the same issue with my dads truck ABS. You can unplug them from the ABS module and the brakes will work normal but you won't have ABS. I think you can unplug one side at a time to see which size is the problem. I ended replacing both his wheel bearings since his truck had 130000 miles on it and where the sensors attach was all corroded. IF your wheel bearings are in good shape you can just replace the sensors. Put some RTV around the sensor when you install it since the reason they go bad is water gets in there.

Originally Posted by gagliano7

Totally agree and i bet the 5.7 would have had better MPG. I wish gm would make a 4.8 or 5.3 turbo for the trucks since so many people do it with the junk yard motors with great results. I would think a 4.8 with twin turbos would tow like a **** and get great mpg.

Originally Posted by RedRocketZ28

I have the misfire table completely maxed out in the tune. I know anything can happen but the truck only has 56k on it. I plan to scan everything while driving and see what happens when it unlocks. I am going to try putting the stock tune back in too and see if that does anything. Have you heard anything about a CASE Relearn fixing weird issues? I have read on some other forums that guys have done this and it worked. It seems to be a fairly common problem for these things but I haven't really found much for answers.

The ABS thing has to be something with my front right hub/ABS sensor as when it kicks in the wheel wants to go to the left. I am going to pull the sensor out and see what it looks like. I have read about this issue as well and once again it's fairly common. It hasn't really bothered me enough to look at it yet since it only does it coming up to a stop and at less than 5 MPH. I just don't want it to get worse as I know that could be quite scary if it happened on the highway.

Maybe it IS time to unload it? Ha.

Originally Posted by tech@WS6store

Why would you ever max out misfires in the tune? x2 takes care of nearly any issues with even huge overlap.

Put misfire enable temp to 256 and see if it still does it not just max out tables. and remove p0300. JUST for a test. never leave it like that.

Originally Posted by gagliano7

Totally agree and i bet the 5.7 would have had better MPG. I wish gm would make a 4.8 or 5.3 turbo for the trucks since so many people do it with the junk yard motors with great results. I would think a 4.8 with twin turbos would tow like a **** and get great mpg.

Originally Posted by Tuskyz28

Don't forget the ecoboost trucks have 10 speed automatics vs GM 4 speeds/6 speeds.

Originally Posted by tech@WS6store

The locking and unlocking part is due to misfires normally. usually from blowby/oil consumption, odd maf readings, oil buildup on spark plugs, odd map readings, or weak coils. A partially failed oil pressure sensor can do that also. Since the ops and map share the 5v reference itll show odd map readings even tho the map is ok.
Ask me how i know.

Abs part is normally from dirty sensors, rings, or failing hubs. esp low speed activation. gm has a tsb about it.