How much spray and how much whp
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How much spray and how much whp Ok, I spun a rod bearing on my car, im reusing 7 stock rods THAT ARE STILL GOOD and 1 new rod ( whole assembly balanced), brand new flatop pistons and remanufactured crank and arp head and rod bolts and arp main stud kit. i plan on spraying it but how much can i spray the engine? im new to nitrous but im full bolt ons, brian tooley stage 4 ls1 cam, and ported 241 heada and stage 2 4l60e. how much whp i make on motor? Thanks! ps dont flame me bc im sensitive
Last edited by 98Bluebirdls1; Oct 23, 2017 at 11:38 PM. Reason: forgot to put my block was rehoned
What fuel pump do you have? 150 shot is generally the highest people suggest on a stock bottom end. You should go ahead and put some forged rods and pistons in it while you have it apart, you will we able to spray a lot more 
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walboro 255. Im stayin with stock pistons and rods, money is tight and soon im planning on another build soon.
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Tuner Im expecting the car to go haul ***, but whos a actual good tuner? im from st louis and looking for a tuner because my tuner is retiring soon and im looking for a tuner that can make the car move.
Ok, I spun a rod bearing on my car, im reusing 7 stock rods THAT ARE STILL GOOD and 1 new rod ( whole assembly balanced), brand new flatop pistons and remanufactured crank and arp head and rod bolts and arp main stud kit. i plan on spraying it but how much can i spray the engine? im new to nitrous but im full bolt ons, brian tooley stage 4 ls1 cam, and ported 241 heada and stage 2 4l60e. how much whp i make on motor? Thanks! ps dont flame me bc im sensitive
What did you gap your rings at?
Those two things will have a lot to do with how big of hit you can/should run.
Are you using a nozzle, plate or direct port?
Another thing is if you are using a progressive controller or just one shot.
Obviously you want to run a colder non projected plug like a BR7.
2 very important things are
1. Learn how to read spark plugs
2. Don't run a rich AFR on the spray. I see people all the time say keep it rich keep it rich, rich is safe. That's old school mentality that's not true and not safe. Whatever AFR the engine makes peak/safe power at NA is, it should be the same on the juice.
The tune part, for N/A is the easy part, "generally 12.7-13.0 AFR and around 26-28 degrees of timing" for a GEN III engine. Again I said, generally. Each engine will be different and likes what it likes, kinda like a woman.
Depending on how good your converter and port work is, and if you are pulling it locked/unlocked. On a honest dyno I'd expect around 400.
Stand alone fuel system for nitrous. Its pretty cheap and pretty easy to do and much safer. You wont need a crazy big pump or crazy amounts of fuel pressure. Small auxillary tank tucked up inside your front bumper
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Honestly it depends a lot on the dyno. They all read different, some low, some high, some stupid high.
The tune part, for N/A is the easy part, "generally 12.7-13.0 AFR and around 26-28 degrees of timing" for a GEN III engine. Again I said, generally. Each engine will be different and likes what it likes, kinda like a woman.
Depending on how good your converter and port work is, and if you are pulling it locked/unlocked. On a honest dyno I'd expect around 400.
The tune part, for N/A is the easy part, "generally 12.7-13.0 AFR and around 26-28 degrees of timing" for a GEN III engine. Again I said, generally. Each engine will be different and likes what it likes, kinda like a woman.
Depending on how good your converter and port work is, and if you are pulling it locked/unlocked. On a honest dyno I'd expect around 400.
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What type of pistons?
What did you gap your rings at?
Those two things will have a lot to do with how big of hit you can/should run.
Are you using a nozzle, plate or direct port?
Another thing is if you are using a progressive controller or just one shot.
Obviously you want to run a colder non projected plug like a BR7.
2 very important things are
1. Learn how to read spark plugs
2. Don't run a rich AFR on the spray. I see people all the time say keep it rich keep it rich, rich is safe. That's old school mentality that's not true and not safe. Whatever AFR the engine makes peak/safe power at NA is, it should be the same on the juice.
What did you gap your rings at?
Those two things will have a lot to do with how big of hit you can/should run.
Are you using a nozzle, plate or direct port?
Another thing is if you are using a progressive controller or just one shot.
Obviously you want to run a colder non projected plug like a BR7.
2 very important things are
1. Learn how to read spark plugs
2. Don't run a rich AFR on the spray. I see people all the time say keep it rich keep it rich, rich is safe. That's old school mentality that's not true and not safe. Whatever AFR the engine makes peak/safe power at NA is, it should be the same on the juice.
You don't need two, I have one that is mostly used on the driver's side. If I'm paranoid I'll toss the sensor in the passenger side just to make sure its the same.
I spray 150 through a single nozzle. Plugs look good, afr is good, car pulls harrrrdd.
I spray 150 through a single nozzle. Plugs look good, afr is good, car pulls harrrrdd.
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I thought I need 2 sensors to check the air fuel on each side of the engine?