achieve most HP from bolt ons
They have been used in pushrod applications since the dawn of time. Fox giys used them alot. Lt's also.
I'll add to the ewp recommendation. You can also delete all your idlers and tensiober with a ewp. You can use a jegs ls1 adjustable alt bracket or just size the belt to fit really tight. Remove the dumby ewp pulley to. You can tell the engine gets more responsive when that's done.
I'll add to the ewp recommendation. You can also delete all your idlers and tensiober with a ewp. You can use a jegs ls1 adjustable alt bracket or just size the belt to fit really tight. Remove the dumby ewp pulley to. You can tell the engine gets more responsive when that's done.
They have been used in pushrod applications since the dawn of time. Fox giys used them alot. Lt's also.
I'll add to the ewp recommendation. You can also delete all your idlers and tensiober with a ewp. You can use a jegs ls1 adjustable alt bracket or just size the belt to fit really tight. Remove the dumby ewp pulley to. You can tell the engine gets more responsive when that's done.
I'll add to the ewp recommendation. You can also delete all your idlers and tensiober with a ewp. You can use a jegs ls1 adjustable alt bracket or just size the belt to fit really tight. Remove the dumby ewp pulley to. You can tell the engine gets more responsive when that's done.
It depends on RPM. If you make peak at 6000, you’ll see 10-15. Push that peak higher and gains go up. Takes more work to keep pumping faster and faster against the internal resistance of your coolant.
This had me interested so I looked up a Meziere 35 gallon per minute electric ls1 pump for $475....I wonder if that's enough flow to keep coolant temps in order. It says 8 amp draw and uses a 30 amp relay and 20 amp fuse so it could draw a fair bit more than 8 amps I'd assume.
Would the increased load on the charging system not be too costly in rwhp?
Last edited by foxsl; Nov 14, 2017 at 04:06 AM.
Originally Posted by foxsl
What's that in automatic rwhp gains? Let's say it peaks hp at 6300 rpm.
This had me interested so I looked up a Meziere 35 gallon per minute electric ls1 pump for $475....I wonder if that's enough flow to keep coolant temps in order. It says 8 amp draw and uses a 30 amp relay and 20 amp fuse so it could draw a fair bit more than 8 amps I'd assume.
Would the increased load on the charging system not be too costly in rwhp?
This had me interested so I looked up a Meziere 35 gallon per minute electric ls1 pump for $475....I wonder if that's enough flow to keep coolant temps in order. It says 8 amp draw and uses a 30 amp relay and 20 amp fuse so it could draw a fair bit more than 8 amps I'd assume.
Would the increased load on the charging system not be too costly in rwhp?
The thing draws 8-amps but requires more to start it. All electric motors draw several times their running current to start.
There is a penalty on your alternator but it is very slight. Two points for you to consider:
1. Pump runs at 1800 rpm continuous. Not up and down with engine RPM.
2. Look at clutch fan vs electric fans. Same principle. You gain all that power from not turning the fans and the added demand is about 0.5 g/sec worth of air flow and power consumption.
Bottom line, the slight increase at alternator is nothing compared to the free power
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I think an alternator takes around 5 hp at maximum load. Say 120-140 amps. EWP only takes around 8 amps or so. The stock water pump doesn't take much hp at idle either but at 6500 it does. That's the difference.
For reference with the belt and pulley system, I pulled off the heavy SLP pulley, went to an innovators west pulley, bypassed the power steering and only ran the belt from the crank to the alternator. Gained a consistent 1.5 mph
For reference with the belt and pulley system, I pulled off the heavy SLP pulley, went to an innovators west pulley, bypassed the power steering and only ran the belt from the crank to the alternator. Gained a consistent 1.5 mph
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Verdad Gallardo You will see right around 15 rwhp
The thing draws 8-amps but requires more to start it. All electric motors draw several times their running current to start.
There is a penalty on your alternator but it is very slight. Two points for you to consider:
1. Pump runs at 1800 rpm continuous. Not up and down with engine RPM.
2. Look at clutch fan vs electric fans. Same principle. You gain all that power from not turning the fans and the added demand is about 0.5 g/sec worth of air flow and power consumption.
Bottom line, the slight increase at alternator is nothing compared to the free power
The thing draws 8-amps but requires more to start it. All electric motors draw several times their running current to start.
There is a penalty on your alternator but it is very slight. Two points for you to consider:
1. Pump runs at 1800 rpm continuous. Not up and down with engine RPM.
2. Look at clutch fan vs electric fans. Same principle. You gain all that power from not turning the fans and the added demand is about 0.5 g/sec worth of air flow and power consumption.
Bottom line, the slight increase at alternator is nothing compared to the free power
I found a Moroso pump to be a bit cheaper too and only draws 7 amps, however it is rated for 19 gallons per minute. The description says it flows as much as 30-35 gpm competitors so maybe they mean a Meziere 35 gpm pump.
Either way thanks for mentioning this as it has me really considering one. I do street drive tons though and to get to the track, I have to rev at 3200-3500 rpm on the highway in my final gear for 1.2 hours each way.
Big Hammer, I was considering a crank to alt belt setup for the track and crank/alt/power steering for daily use.
I've drove my car with a ewp to Atlanta and back with no issues. Ac on and all. That's 8hrs one way. They start to get noisy when they need a rebuild but don't seem to just up and stop from what i have seen.