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There are very few similarities at all.
75mm 3bolt opening vs 90mm 4 bolt
Individual runner gaskets vs flat plate style
3 piece vs single piece
Egr provision vs no egr provision
Gen3 rail capability vs no gen3 rail capability
Tb bracket bosses vs needs modification
No plenum tube vs plenum tube
They both look way better than the gen3 truck but other than that its hard to compare apples to apples. If it flows well enough, its a better more cost effective option for the 3 bolt dbw truck guys vs getting the 4 bolt tb amd xlink and gen4 rail etc.
Gotcha. All this time I thought the only way to post a pic was through an image host and posting a link. I don't even know what image host to use anymore. I'm behind the times and my photobucket is a nightmare to try to access. I was gone for a while so I think I missed the switch of being able to load pics from the pc, or it was always an option and I was/am retarded??
I'll try posting a pic below
This picture makes me think of the gearhead version of Superman's
Fortress of Solitude
The original DLST intakes had 8 screws in the bottom that went through the lower shell and into the center runner section. This one (and newer ones) do not. We are adding them as a rigidity upgrade and sealing them off.
I have fit the shells together so many times for mock up and transition checking im sure itll have 0 issues with going back together as positive as they feel. It uses a FAST style orange rope seal in factory form but that lacks alot to be desired so it will be ditched for epoxy around the exterior to permanently seal it up.
I should be sealing it this weekend.
What screws are you going to use. Are you going to use the orange rope between the runner walls. and just epoxy the upper shell to bottom, or deleted the rope completely ?
Some self tapping screws with o rings on them.
Delete the rope completely. Adding it back in amd applying epoxy on top could make an issue. The epoxy will completely fill the channel.
Some self tapping screws with o rings on them.
Delete the rope completely. Adding it back in amd applying epoxy on top could make an issue. The epoxy will completely fill the channel.
Cool are you going to counter sink the heads and cover with sealant. Diffantly sounds like you're upgrading the hardware. This epoxy your going to use does it have a flex additive to it ?
It flexs very little.
There is no nee to couter sink or seal them. There is no portion of the lower shell that would come into contact with the valley cover or bolts. They will be sealed with the O rings.
Ok gotcha, the floor of this intake looks like a potbelly pig the way it sags.What is your educated guess for the flow test results , the ported side vs unported ?
Well I don't know what most are expecting as for results . But I will say if you are able to improve the flow by 5 or 6 cfm you have done a very good job porting this. If you happen to reach double digits , I'd say you're a magician !
Working on adding the bottom bolts to the lower shell to add to the rigidity of the intake. There are 2 areas of issue, 1 front and 1 back that dont allow the runner to butt against the lower shell.
The very front and very rear portions dont have a spot for the fasteners so they will have to be drilled and added.
That and the litetal pisspoor way the rope seal actually "seals" is likely most of the issue people are having.
Here is the new bolt added after holes drilled. The 2 sections line up pretty good with minimal issues at all. Minor work will need to be done on the shell transitions.
Sorry, any update on this? I purchased a Dorman truck intake about a year ago, shaved and ported the runners and only ran it idle time before removing. I want to run it on my next motor and have been working on it. I’ve drilled out the MAP sensor hole for the new GM 3 bar MAP sensor and I just put some stock fuel lines , russel AN adapters and bosch 60lb injectors on it. Waiting for the new FPR to finish it off.
I was hoping to see you all done with this so I knew what to do to seal it for boost. Nothing crazy, looking at 15psi max on a 2003 5.3 with a GT45. Interested to see how you seal the halves up. I have read a nylon adhesive or epoxy but I think the stuff was like $60+ so i never pulled the trigger. I just want some cheap small amount of nylon epoxy that isn’t going to break the bank. The only problem is that idk if it’s worth it yet to open her up and permanently seal it without some Dyno proof of the hp difference. If it doesn’t beat the stock truck intakes which are fine with boost it’s not worth the money for me to keep dumping more into this intake.
Last edited by customblackbird; 12-30-2017 at 11:11 AM.
End of the year is always a crazy time.
After test fitting the halves together, it is best to remove the FAST style rope seal and use only epoxy to seal the entire thing.
I use PANEL BOND. You can get a pretty trick gun for it with a mixing nozzle and just lay it down, set the halves together and bolt/screw it together and let it sit. Then put screws into the center runner section to add rigidity. You can add your adhesive under the head of them also to help seal them.
I am switching to a different type of screw with a Philips head as the hex head runs into clearance issues trying to torque down. Make sure to go over them a few times in a criss cross patter. I predrilled holes in the bottom to line up with the support bosses in the center runner section.
The center runner section should also be expoxied to the base as well.
If you are running boost i would actually build some type of shield for the map. Being so far in the back at the bottom, it has a straight shot for any pcv oil or contaminants to go right in it and muck it up. I have a few ideas there i will post up later today. It will still sample fine, but be protected.
So . . . a few questions here that I'm unclear about. I'd like to get rid of my model year 2000 LM7 truck manifold because I think I'm going to have trouble closing my cowl induction El Camino hood over this tall LM7 stock manifold.
1 - Will my LM7 75 millimeter throttle body easily fit this Dorman manifold?
2 - Will my current LM7 fuel injectors fit the Dorman manifold?
3 - Will all LM7 sensors on the stock manifold fit the Dorman part?
4 - How much shorter in height is the Dorman part compared to the stock manifold?
5 - Fuel rails . . . same question.
Basically, I'm cheap and don't want to spend a lot of money getting my EC's hood to close. Thanks for your advice and it has been a very good thread here so far.
It's STILL a truck intake; you STILL might have a hood problem.
Having said that, I have seen cases with A-bodies like yours where there was no problem closing the hood over a stock truck manifold.
That is good to hear but a cowl induction hood has a lot of extra metal underneath. My Holley forward bias engine mounts are here but are big trouble to mount - not enough camera-equipped triple-knuckled swivel attachments in my socket drawer. So I'm going to do them maybe next week while I'm replacing every bushing, bump stop, tie rod, ball joint and drag link plus adding coil overs. This suspension rebuild makes it easy to get to the engine mount bolt holes and I can set the engine where it needs to be.
Yea . . . still a truck motor intake but I can hope.
12-15-2017, 11:31 AM
