ls1 lifter or rod knock?
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ls1 lifter or rod knock? hey guys well i have the heads already pulled off the gto and already ordered new ls7 lifters, trays, new gm mls headgaskets and new btr .660 valve springs. I didnt see any issues with the lifters though this is my first time every pulling apart and inspecting a pushrod motor. i took this video before i pulled the heads off. does this sound like rod knock or a lifter issue?
Edit: also i drained oil and didnt see any metal shavings in the oil.
Edit: also i drained oil and didnt see any metal shavings in the oil.
Last edited by hollaback6; Jan 16, 2018 at 12:10 AM.
start pulling plug wires to see if it goes away on one cylinder
also rev the engine to see if it changes pitch or tone based on accelerating or decelerating
these things indicate bottom end / bearing typically
also rev the engine to see if it changes pitch or tone based on accelerating or decelerating
these things indicate bottom end / bearing typically
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From: Poplarville, MS
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yea i guess i should have waited to pull it apart. engine has a torquer v3 cam so thats why there is a lot of vibration or movement in the engine. i guess all i can do is put the new parts in and put it back together and pray it was a lifter.
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You wouldn't SEE anything with the lifters as far as a noise like this. What you should have done was check the preload on each lifter before taking it apart. It sounds like a stuck lifter to me so I think you're ok BUT sometimes a leaking o ring at the oil pump will cause noisy lifters too. So you maybe looking at more work to fix it. Plus the fact the cam was changed raises a lot more questions. Was the oil pump and o ring replaced etc.
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I think it's an issue with the valve train. I've heard the sound of a broken rod and seen what it did to my LS1 block. Since you have the heads off you should be able to see if your pistons are making contact with your valves.
It also makes since to get the heads checked out and new valve seals put in since you've got them off the car. Be sure and inspect all your lifters and rocker arms carefully, also check all of your pushrods for straightness. I too feel that you may have a bad lifter that's making that sound and if so I'd replace them all. When the new cam was installed did anyone verify correct pushrod length and P-V clearance?
Good luck with it and keep us posted!
It also makes since to get the heads checked out and new valve seals put in since you've got them off the car. Be sure and inspect all your lifters and rocker arms carefully, also check all of your pushrods for straightness. I too feel that you may have a bad lifter that's making that sound and if so I'd replace them all. When the new cam was installed did anyone verify correct pushrod length and P-V clearance?
Good luck with it and keep us posted!
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the cam swap was done before i owned the car. not sure if p-v was checked but it has ran fine for about 18k miles before this sound started. going to take the heads in to get checked out tomorrow and after i get them back i am going to start putting it back together.
Someone I knew had a dirty engine with 100k on the clock. Front of the engine was filthy and it looked like it was leaking. Inside it was pristine, well maintained.
They took it to the dealer for a valve cover gasket job. The service tech opened the valve cover without cleaning the engine bay and some dirt got into the engine and it failed a year later, spun bearings with filth embedded. It isn't easy to prove that the dirt from one or two years ago was the cause; even poor service is "safe from being called out".
IF you don't know the cleanliness aspect condition of the service, there is always the chance that dirt plays a role in engine decline. It is, without a doubt, the single unifying factor across the board for all engines which rely on oil systems: Since the moment it "turns on" there is a war against dirt and filth that plays out with the filtration systems of the vehicle. That also, when opened up, i.e. "cam swaps" and "internal work" is the best opportunity for spun bearings, trashed blocks.
Ideally we would all have clean rooms, I am not saying this is possible but it really isn't hard to set something up with tarps/fans and a filter.
They took it to the dealer for a valve cover gasket job. The service tech opened the valve cover without cleaning the engine bay and some dirt got into the engine and it failed a year later, spun bearings with filth embedded. It isn't easy to prove that the dirt from one or two years ago was the cause; even poor service is "safe from being called out".
IF you don't know the cleanliness aspect condition of the service, there is always the chance that dirt plays a role in engine decline. It is, without a doubt, the single unifying factor across the board for all engines which rely on oil systems: Since the moment it "turns on" there is a war against dirt and filth that plays out with the filtration systems of the vehicle. That also, when opened up, i.e. "cam swaps" and "internal work" is the best opportunity for spun bearings, trashed blocks.
Ideally we would all have clean rooms, I am not saying this is possible but it really isn't hard to set something up with tarps/fans and a filter.
Sounds to me like a lifter. Pull a plug wire off one by one and start the engine. If it's a bearing and you kill the hole its affecting the pressure off the bearing from cylinder firing will quiet the bearing noise quite a bit. Or you could cut the filter and it will tell you instantly if there is bearing inside
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Someone I knew had a dirty engine with 100k on the clock. Front of the engine was filthy and it looked like it was leaking. Inside it was pristine, well maintained.
They took it to the dealer for a valve cover gasket job. The service tech opened the valve cover without cleaning the engine bay and some dirt got into the engine and it failed a year later, spun bearings with filth embedded. It isn't easy to prove that the dirt from one or two years ago was the cause; even poor service is "safe from being called out".
IF you don't know the cleanliness aspect condition of the service, there is always the chance that dirt plays a role in engine decline. It is, without a doubt, the single unifying factor across the board for all engines which rely on oil systems: Since the moment it "turns on" there is a war against dirt and filth that plays out with the filtration systems of the vehicle. That also, when opened up, i.e. "cam swaps" and "internal work" is the best opportunity for spun bearings, trashed blocks.
Ideally we would all have clean rooms, I am not saying this is possible but it really isn't hard to set something up with tarps/fans and a filter.
They took it to the dealer for a valve cover gasket job. The service tech opened the valve cover without cleaning the engine bay and some dirt got into the engine and it failed a year later, spun bearings with filth embedded. It isn't easy to prove that the dirt from one or two years ago was the cause; even poor service is "safe from being called out".
IF you don't know the cleanliness aspect condition of the service, there is always the chance that dirt plays a role in engine decline. It is, without a doubt, the single unifying factor across the board for all engines which rely on oil systems: Since the moment it "turns on" there is a war against dirt and filth that plays out with the filtration systems of the vehicle. That also, when opened up, i.e. "cam swaps" and "internal work" is the best opportunity for spun bearings, trashed blocks.
Ideally we would all have clean rooms, I am not saying this is possible but it really isn't hard to set something up with tarps/fans and a filter.
