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Come on guys, I'm not an idiot. Both sets of holes line up to my naked eye. I used to build turbine engines so my eye is usually pretty accurate, but I am getting old. Just trying to avoid hassle down the road.
The inner set of holes is 10.75 and for LT1 cars. You need the outer holes (the one with the ring around it)
Awesome thanks. Is that from your own experience or did you find the info someplace? I searched online and did not come up with anything definitive. Thanks for helping out btw.
Come on guys, I'm not an idiot. Both sets of holes line up to my naked eye. I used to build turbine engines so my eye is usually pretty accurate, but I am getting old. Just trying to avoid hassle down the road.
Wasn't being smart. I've got a tci plate in one car and a yank plate in another. I've also got converters with sbc/BBC bolt pattern and Ls bolt pattern. So I can't keep them straight but they can only be bolted up in one spot so I don't pay any real attention to it.
Wasn't being smart. I've got a tci plate in one car and a yank plate in another. I've also got converters with sbc/BBC bolt pattern and Ls bolt pattern. So I can't keep them straight but they can only be bolted up in one spot so I don't pay any real attention to it.
Hows the quality of the yank? I had a tci on my old stroker and thought highly of it. The B & M has a nice feel to it for being only 100 bucks.
The yank I have is like your hughs. I haven't done a whole lot of digging but believe Cat might be the actual manufacturer of all the cheaper ones. They are sfi approved so they can't be to bad. With that said I switched the tci from the lower powered car to the higher one. Just seems like a better piece to me.
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Flexplate question 
