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Red Loctite- am I screwed?

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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 07:09 AM
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Default Red Loctite- am I screwed?

Like a dummy I wasn't thinking and put some loctite 271 on my header bolts when I put them on. Now I have to remove them. Am I screwed? Should I drive the truck to operating temp before I remove them? Thanks.
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 09:04 AM
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Just put some heat on the boltes with a propane torch, and that should help.

Last edited by Dracer173; Feb 20, 2018 at 11:47 AM.
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 09:58 AM
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I googled this. On their website it says to heat to 450 degrees and then remove. I'd becareful when aluminum is involved. good luck
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 10:54 AM
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Thats why I am thinking about getting the engine up to operating temperature first and see how soft it is, Ill try and remove one cold and see if it tries to budge, if not ill resort to heat
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 11:35 AM
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gonna need a breaker bar if you're trying to free it cold. a few years ago I was helping a buddy remove the brake calipers off his subie he just got. the SOB was hard to remove and after every cuss word and a 12 foot breaker bar broke the bolts loose only to find out the previous ******* owner used red locktite.
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 02:49 PM
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Heat will be your friend with red loctite! You use stainless header bolts or the stock crappers?
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 05:41 PM
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Heat gun or torch. Only the bolt needs to be heated. And once this is done, the Loctite should not dry back out, and re-lock it. It turns black and gets runny under heat.

Actually broke a 1 1/4" crowfoot that we had rigged to fit on a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter, which attached to a modified easy out, which was tapped into a titanium threaded insert on a Blackhawk. We then used a 4' pipe wrench and the slot on the end (the hanging slot) to fit around the crowfoot. 4 guys on the wrench, 3 to hold the head still, and SNAP. Broke that crowfoot in two, also straightened out the easy out. It had a section that had straight groves in it lol.

Then we finally tried some heat, from a heat gun, to heat up the titanium shaft extension and insert. Came right out with a 3/8" ratchet after that.
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 07:29 PM
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Ive always wondered about that. The FSM says to apply locking compound near the heads of the bolts for the manifold exhaust. The exhaust will easily pass 500*F so I don't quite understand what they are getting at...
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 09:21 PM
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I always use anti-seize on header bolts. Also never had a problem removing any fastener installed with red Loctite...
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 08:07 AM
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I throw heat on locktite bolts before trying to crack them, seems to always work out.
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Old Feb 23, 2018 | 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
I always use anti-seize on header bolts. Also never had a problem removing any fastener installed with red Loctite...
in the same boat. I also have never had issues removing fasteners with red Loctite.
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Old Feb 23, 2018 | 08:59 AM
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When using the stock manifold gaskets I have never had a single header or manifold bolt loosen on an LS yet with no anti seize or locktite. I make sure the bolts are not corroded though, I have had many snap off in the head ( truck engines large bolt head ) and I only use the small 10mm head OEM bolts on every install because for whatever reason they dont break on me but the large head bolts do.

I too would heat the head of the bolt well with a propane torch, should work fine.
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Old Feb 24, 2018 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by fst100
gonna need a breaker bar if you're trying to free it cold. a few years ago I was helping a buddy remove the brake calipers off his subie he just got. the SOB was hard to remove and after every cuss word and a 12 foot breaker bar broke the bolts loose only to find out the previous ******* owner used red locktite.
Damn, gotta have the garage door open for that tool.
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Old Mar 7, 2018 | 06:00 AM
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UPDATE- All is well, they actually came out with no issue whatsoever. No head was added. Thanks for the help guys
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Old Mar 19, 2018 | 09:52 AM
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I think a lot of this has to do with how much loc-tite was used...it doesn’t take much to do the job!
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