Engine to Chassis Ground?
06-02-2018, 10:55 PM
#1
Engine to Chassis Ground? The wire that is located on the block near the starter and passenger side motor mount G100, where on the chassis does it connect and does it also connect direct to the battery? I know there is G101 front of the driver-side strut tower that connects direct to battery but does G100 run to a different spot on the chassis?
I relocated the battery to the trunk and was considering running 0 awg from the battery terminal to a bolt on the alternator bracket but would it be better to run it into a split and connect to G100 and G101 instead? Also going to run 0 awg from the battery terminal to a ground location in the trunk.
I'm not seeing the ground strap between the block and chassis on the driver's side so I'll make my own. G111 to G109, alternator bracket bolt to bolt on right of the ABS bracket. Yes, G111 original isn't a bracket bolt but that is easier to get to.
G100 On the lower right side of the engine, above the starter, below exhaust ports (links directly from battery to chassis)
G101 Front of the driver-side strut tower (EBCM, also has a direct link to battery)
G102 Front of the passenger-side strut tower (ASM)
G105 On top right side of the radiator support (ignition relay, RH lamps and horn, RH Firebird headlamp doors)
G106 On top left side of the radiator support (LH lamps, washer/wiper, DRL, brake fluid level, EBCM, cooling fans and relays, AIR pump, LH Firebird headlamp doors)
G109 Left front frame rail, forward of the brake pressure modulator valve bracket (cruise control, also links to G111)
G110 Attached to the rear of the right cylinder head (fuel pump relay, PCM, MAF, oil level, Park/neutral/clutch position switch, Instrument cluster, TCS)
G111 on the left side of the engine, behind the alternator, below exhaust ports (ground link to G109)
G112 Attached to the rear of the left cylinder head (A/C clutch and diode, coil packs, O2 sensors)
G200 Near the left A-pillar, bolted to the IP mounting stud behind the kick panel (all interior switches, all interior lights, rear mirrors, instrument cluster, steering wheel controls, cig lighter, blower motor relay, radio, BCM, Amp, DRL, seat belts, shock sensor, DLC)
G201 Near the right A-pillar, bolted to the IP mounting stud behind the kick panel (blower motor, convertible top)
G202 Under center console, rear of the airbag module, to the right of e-brake (airbag module)
G305 Left rocker panel, under the door seal (fuel tank unit, power seats switches)
G310 On the roof, left of the dome lamp (rear defogger and 3rd brake light in coupe)
G320 On the roof (rear defogger in convertible)
G400 Bolted to the trunk release mechanism on the rear trunk wall (tail lamps, turn signals and rear trunk lid, convertible 3rd brake light)
Note: This is for US model V8 Camaro only
- G110 and G112 are different in V6
- G400 is slightly different in Firebird
I relocated the battery to the trunk and was considering running 0 awg from the battery terminal to a bolt on the alternator bracket but would it be better to run it into a split and connect to G100 and G101 instead? Also going to run 0 awg from the battery terminal to a ground location in the trunk.
I'm not seeing the ground strap between the block and chassis on the driver's side so I'll make my own. G111 to G109, alternator bracket bolt to bolt on right of the ABS bracket. Yes, G111 original isn't a bracket bolt but that is easier to get to.
G100 On the lower right side of the engine, above the starter, below exhaust ports (links directly from battery to chassis)
G101 Front of the driver-side strut tower (EBCM, also has a direct link to battery)
G102 Front of the passenger-side strut tower (ASM)
G105 On top right side of the radiator support (ignition relay, RH lamps and horn, RH Firebird headlamp doors)
G106 On top left side of the radiator support (LH lamps, washer/wiper, DRL, brake fluid level, EBCM, cooling fans and relays, AIR pump, LH Firebird headlamp doors)
G109 Left front frame rail, forward of the brake pressure modulator valve bracket (cruise control, also links to G111)
G110 Attached to the rear of the right cylinder head (fuel pump relay, PCM, MAF, oil level, Park/neutral/clutch position switch, Instrument cluster, TCS)
G111 on the left side of the engine, behind the alternator, below exhaust ports (ground link to G109)
G112 Attached to the rear of the left cylinder head (A/C clutch and diode, coil packs, O2 sensors)
G200 Near the left A-pillar, bolted to the IP mounting stud behind the kick panel (all interior switches, all interior lights, rear mirrors, instrument cluster, steering wheel controls, cig lighter, blower motor relay, radio, BCM, Amp, DRL, seat belts, shock sensor, DLC)
G201 Near the right A-pillar, bolted to the IP mounting stud behind the kick panel (blower motor, convertible top)
G202 Under center console, rear of the airbag module, to the right of e-brake (airbag module)
G305 Left rocker panel, under the door seal (fuel tank unit, power seats switches)
G310 On the roof, left of the dome lamp (rear defogger and 3rd brake light in coupe)
G320 On the roof (rear defogger in convertible)
G400 Bolted to the trunk release mechanism on the rear trunk wall (tail lamps, turn signals and rear trunk lid, convertible 3rd brake light)
Note: This is for US model V8 Camaro only
- G110 and G112 are different in V6
- G400 is slightly different in Firebird
06-03-2018, 12:08 AM
#2
Neg batt cable needs to go to the block itself, or as close as possible. Alt bracket would be OK but block would be better. Maybe a motor mount bolt or the like. But definitely NOT to the chassis and then rely on ground straps to carry starting current from the block to there.
Simple rule of electrical wiring: put the copper where the current is.
There's no particular reason to exactly duplicate the factory's strap configuration. It's set up as much for production line convenience, as for actual electrical performance. Not that it's "bad" or "wrong", just, it's not the only way or the be-all end-all. But yeah, definitely a good idea to have a solid, heavy gauge connection between the block (where the neg cable goes to) and the chassis, to carry the current that goes to chassis-related things like lights and interior stuff.
Since there's no significant current flow between the batt and the rear of the car, a 0 gauge isn't needed there. See the comment about where to put the copper: by extension, if there's no current somewhere, then lots of copper there doesn't really accomplish anything. Good idea to have something, for sure; maybe a 6 gauge or so; but 0 is overkill.
Simple rule of electrical wiring: put the copper where the current is.
There's no particular reason to exactly duplicate the factory's strap configuration. It's set up as much for production line convenience, as for actual electrical performance. Not that it's "bad" or "wrong", just, it's not the only way or the be-all end-all. But yeah, definitely a good idea to have a solid, heavy gauge connection between the block (where the neg cable goes to) and the chassis, to carry the current that goes to chassis-related things like lights and interior stuff.
Since there's no significant current flow between the batt and the rear of the car, a 0 gauge isn't needed there. See the comment about where to put the copper: by extension, if there's no current somewhere, then lots of copper there doesn't really accomplish anything. Good idea to have something, for sure; maybe a 6 gauge or so; but 0 is overkill.
06-24-2018, 08:08 AM
#7
I did remove the belt and alt, just be careful to not tear out the plug with the 1 wire on the back of the alt. I’ll be home soon PM me your email I’ll send you all the pics you need
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02-25-2023, 07:49 AM
#10
TECH Enthusiast
I know its an old thread now but would you happen to know what size that ground bolt is, or what size the ring terminal is on that wire? Thanks
02-25-2023, 08:27 AM
#12
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Pretty sure it's M10x1.5 and if not then M10x1.25