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TSP ORY fitment questions

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Old Jun 7, 2018 | 09:09 AM
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Default TSP ORY fitment questions

For those that have installed TSP's ORY lately how has fitment been? I havent seen much talk about it lately and was about to order some. I just dont want to run into issues with the y-pipe and having to jack with it all the time. I do see they mimicked another Y and merge and looks good. Trying to get a better idea of what Im gonna be diving into.
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Old Jun 7, 2018 | 09:11 AM
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I have installed several of the TSP y-pipes and have had great success with the fitment. Just take your time making sure to adjust all the pieces to get the best fitment. Even on lowered cars the ypipe has not been an issue.
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Old Jun 7, 2018 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron at SDPC
I have installed several of the TSP y-pipes and have had great success with the fitment. Just take your time making sure to adjust all the pieces to get the best fitment. Even on lowered cars the ypipe has not been an issue.
Thats what I was hoping to hear. Im putting my Strano/Koni setup on soon too. Just dont want to be scraping on everything if the Y had a problem tucking.
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Old Jun 7, 2018 | 09:31 AM
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You'll be fine with TSP headers. Do not use Hooker headers, the collectors are longer on Hooker headers than the TSP headers.

Last edited by wannafbody; Sep 24, 2018 at 09:43 PM.
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Old Jun 7, 2018 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by wannafbody
You'll be fine with TSP headers. Do not use Hooker headers.
Choice was between ARH and TSP. If I go TSP Ill have the funds to get the cat-back also.
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 07:21 AM
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The TSP off-road Y fits amazing. I'm using it with SE headers.
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Old Jun 13, 2018 | 09:10 AM
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TSP LT headers on trucks (silverados) WILL NOT fit without modifying the underside of the vehicle. I have installed 3 sets, on 3 different trucks over the last 8 months. All 3 sets were brand new shipped from TSP. On the drivers side O2 sensor, you WILL have to bash a reinforcement plate that rides on the toe kick of the floor pan. If you do not give the O2 sensor clearance, you will crush, or pinch, the wiring against the underside of the vehicle. It's not hard work, but just understand that you will need to take a hammer to the reinforcement there and smash it significantly to gain clearance. When I ?? TSP about this, they said that "all trucks are made just a little differently and some may need the adjustment". EVERY truck I've put them in so far has needed the "adjustment".

On the TSP ORY-they all bolted in perfectly with no clearance issues with 4L60E transmissions!!!! Keep in mind though that if you swap to a 4L80E trans-as I have done on 2 of the aforementioned trucks-the ORY will not work. You will have to cut, section, weld, and purchase 3" mandrel bends to gain clearance under the trans at the transmission pan, and then to get back up and over the cross member on the passenger side. It's not a big deal, but does require stainless bends, and a TIG welder..

I just hacked my TSP ORY up again this past weekend by converting over to true duals into an X pipe. I basically had to cut the merge section off, and then ran 2 separate pipes over the cross member then into the X.. Not hard work, but for someone who does not do exhaust every day it takes a while to get the angles perfect so that you don't have any large gaps to weld up.

You can also expect the headers to lose their color, or shine, immediately after installation. Both my LT & ORY have a matte bronze, or gold, color to them. They turned color immediately after the first road test and then slowly devolved to the matte bronze color they are now over several months. They are NOT rusting, but they no longer resemble stainless either. Just be prepared for that to happen. Overall, 4 out of 5 stars on quality and fitment. If you did not have to bash the underside of the vehicle I would have given them 5 out of 5.
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Old Jun 13, 2018 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Kawabuggy
TSP LT headers on trucks (silverados) WILL NOT fit without modifying the underside of the vehicle. I have installed 3 sets, on 3 different trucks over the last 8 months. All 3 sets were brand new shipped from TSP. On the drivers side O2 sensor, you WILL have to bash a reinforcement plate that rides on the toe kick of the floor pan. If you do not give the O2 sensor clearance, you will crush, or pinch, the wiring against the underside of the vehicle. It's not hard work, but just understand that you will need to take a hammer to the reinforcement there and smash it significantly to gain clearance. When I ?? TSP about this, they said that "all trucks are made just a little differently and some may need the adjustment". EVERY truck I've put them in so far has needed the "adjustment".

On the TSP ORY-they all bolted in perfectly with no clearance issues with 4L60E transmissions!!!! Keep in mind though that if you swap to a 4L80E trans-as I have done on 2 of the aforementioned trucks-the ORY will not work. You will have to cut, section, weld, and purchase 3" mandrel bends to gain clearance under the trans at the transmission pan, and then to get back up and over the cross member on the passenger side. It's not a big deal, but does require stainless bends, and a TIG welder..

I just hacked my TSP ORY up again this past weekend by converting over to true duals into an X pipe. I basically had to cut the merge section off, and then ran 2 separate pipes over the cross member then into the X.. Not hard work, but for someone who does not do exhaust every day it takes a while to get the angles perfect so that you don't have any large gaps to weld up.

You can also expect the headers to lose their color, or shine, immediately after installation. Both my LT & ORY have a matte bronze, or gold, color to them. They turned color immediately after the first road test and then slowly devolved to the matte bronze color they are now over several months. They are NOT rusting, but they no longer resemble stainless either. Just be prepared for that to happen. Overall, 4 out of 5 stars on quality and fitment. If you did not have to bash the underside of the vehicle I would have given them 5 out of 5.
Well that sucks. Hope I don’t run into that mess when I install everything on my car!
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Old Jun 13, 2018 | 10:05 PM
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My TSP headers have that bronze look to them. Sure beats the heck out of rusting ceramic coated steel headers.
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Old Jun 15, 2018 | 06:16 PM
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I almost forgot to mention.. on SILVERADOS... on trucks, you will have to grind, or file, the bolt that holds the two steering shafts together. You will see there is a bolt running through a clamp on the steering shaft.. The end of that bolt after it passes through the clamp will contact the headers if you don't file the end off.. It's best to do this, with the most clearance, after you have removed the old factory cast iron manifolds. Then, have someone turn the steering wheel until the end of that bolt faces straight up and then lock the wheel there while you grind the end of the bolt off.

One last thing.. Several of your plug wires are going to be in VERY close proximity to the new header tubes. I ended up buying those heat shields to protect the spark plug wires. I think I ended up using 4 of the shields. This was after I burned through wire #7 within 2 days of putting the headers on. These are what I used: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...gaAnxiEALw_wcB
O'reillys auto parts sells them if you don't want to buy them from Summit. Since then, no problems..

For those of you who are considering going to LT headers.. Please log your IAT temps and record them for comparison to IATs after the LT header install. I would love to see a comparison of under hood temps between LT headers and factory manifolds. I think it is safe to say that you will see temps rise significantly. Since this only a hunch on my part, I don't want to throw out any #'s. On my truck, I'm seeing IATS in the 150 deg. range while idling at a red light. I do have a CAI but, like most, it is sucking hot air from under the hood. I'd be interested to hear other peoples experiences.
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Old Jun 15, 2018 | 10:05 PM
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Those plug wire heat shields are a good idea.
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Old Jun 24, 2018 | 11:07 AM
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Well, ran into some problems. Prothane mounts are in, headers are in and clear everything perfect. But, when I try to install the first section of y pipe on the drivers side it is literally on the floorboard with no gap. Like binding up as I try to slip it over the collector and it wont slip all the way on. So, I have a few scenarios and one of which I have a hard time believing would cause a problem. I just can’t see these poly motor mounts pushing the engine up so far that the y would hit. It seems like the drivers collector is pointing up at the floorboard or just isn’t quite long enough to let the y clear the floor. That or my y pipe isn’t squeezed correctly. I have pictures sent to Avery at TSP and hopefully I will get a resolution. My cars still in the garage in pieces. Not having the best luck so far!

Last edited by 99Silver6.0; Jun 25, 2018 at 08:15 AM.
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Old Jun 24, 2018 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 99Silver6.0
Well, ran into some problems. Prothane mounts are in, headers are in and clear everything. But, when I try to install the first section of y pipe on the drivers side it is literally on the floorboard with no gap. Like binding up as I try to slip it over the collector. So, I have a few scenarios and one of which I have a hard time believing would cause a problem. I just can’t see these poly motor mounts pushing the engine up so far that the y would hit. It seems like the drivers collector is pointing up at the floorboard or just isn’t quite long enough to let the y clear the floor. That or my y pipe isn’t squeezed correctly. I have pictures sent to Avery at TSP and hopefully I will get a resolution. My cars still in the garage in pieces. Not having the best luck so far!
Something is wrong. What K-member do you have?
I have:

SE headers
TSP offroad Y
Poly motor mounts energy suspension 3.115G
UMI Kmember kit FBS002

Fits perfect.

Worse comes to worse, get your BFH out and bang on the floor board till you get your clearance. My car has been stubborn in other areas so when it does I give it the ol' backhand and make it comply lol.
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Old Jun 24, 2018 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 5.7stroker
Something is wrong. What K-member do you have?
I have:

SE headers
TSP offroad Y
Poly motor mounts energy suspension 3.115G
UMI Kmember kit FBS002

Fits perfect.

Worse comes to worse, get your BFH out and bang on the floor board till you get your clearance. My car has been stubborn in other areas so when it does I give it the ol' backhand and make it comply lol.
Yea, this doesn’t make sense. Stock k member in my car, Prothane 7-512-BL mounts, TSP 1-3/4 headers and ORY.
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Old Jun 26, 2018 | 07:38 PM
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If I had to guess I would say that the difference is in the new mounts. If memory serves me correct, I think I had .5” to .25” of room between the ORY & floorboards; and that was with rubber mounts that had 112k miles on’em.
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Old Jun 26, 2018 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rbl3
If I had to guess I would say that the difference is in the new mounts. If memory serves me correct, I think I had .5” to .25” of room between the ORY & floorboards; and that was with rubber mounts that had 112k miles on’em.
If that’s the case I hope TSP makes an adjustment to their headers or adds a warning that they may not fit with poly mounts. That or I should have left the stock mounts in.
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Old Jun 28, 2018 | 10:39 AM
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Well, no go. Headers are going back. No real definitive answer why they wouldnt fit. Anybody know of an ARH dealer on here?
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Old Jun 28, 2018 | 11:27 AM
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I don’t be see how ARH will fix your issue seeing as how most headers are designed to be positioned the same. If your motor mounts are the issue you may need to:

- replace motor mounts with stock
- try an aftermarket K
- Clearnace the floor to fit the Y

Not all cars are the same. Some have to shave material off stock K to get headers to fit while others don’t for example.

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Old Jun 28, 2018 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 5.7stroker
I don’t be see how ARH will fix your issue seeing as how most headers are designed to be positioned the same. If your motor mounts are the issue you may need to:

- replace motor mounts with stock
- try an aftermarket K
- Clearnace the floor to fit the Y

Not all cars are the same. Some have to shave material off stock K to get headers to fit while others don’t for example.



So you think it could be the poly motor mounts that everybody said is a must? Hell, if thats the case I should have just left my stockers in and not messed with the polys. I dont have much more patience left to put in a new K-member. If I were to clearance above the section of the Y pipe in question I would probably have to completely flatten the floor bracing for it to clear.
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Old Jun 28, 2018 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 99Silver6.0
So you think it could be the poly motor mounts that everybody said is a must? Hell, if thats the case I should have just left my stockers in and not messed with the polys. I dont have much more patience left to put in a new K-member. If I were to clearance above the section of the Y pipe in question I would probably have to completely flatten the floor bracing for it to clear.
its not the poly mounts. Sure they may be adding to it slightly but if poly mounts caused this much trouble then half the people on here would be having the same issue.
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