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Idle surge and weird noise

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Old Nov 24, 2018 | 07:42 PM
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Default Idle surge and weird noise

Hi new to the forum, so I have a 2001 Trans am ws6 with an LS2 swap in it. It was all done by the previous owner. Apparently it has a M303 Cam in it? Idk if any of you have heard of it but that’s what he said. It also has 3 inch headers and a FAST intake manifold, a 3200 rpm stall I believe, and a 12 bolt with 4.88 gears .The car starts good but the idle surges from about 700 rpmall the way up to 1500 rpm and sometimes it doesn’t move from 900rpm and stays consistent. I unplugged the Throttle position sensor and it went into limp mode, but the idle dropped to 750 rpm and ran near perfect other than the fact that it won’t go past 4k rpm. I replaced the TPS and nothing. So I was thinking maybe it just needs a good tune? Also it has a very strange clunking noise and feel that happens when i coast around 25 mph and I have no clue what it is. I know that isn’t specific at all but I’ve literally never felt something like it before. But it goes away with a bit of gas or if I go into neutral.
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Old Nov 24, 2018 | 08:04 PM
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Next time you feel the clunking, keep your speed with the gas but gently push the break at the same time. This will unlock the converter. Im guessing the converter is locking at to low off rpms which is a time issue
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Old Nov 24, 2018 | 08:20 PM
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I googled M303 cam, but got nothing. It would not hurt to post your tune so some here can see what's going on.
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Old Nov 24, 2018 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
I googled M303 cam, but got nothing. It would not hurt to post your tune so some here can see what's going on.
yeah I googled it too and found nothing, it hasn’t been tuned yet I was going to do that next.
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Old Nov 24, 2018 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
Next time you feel the clunking, keep your speed with the gas but gently push the break at the same time. This will unlock the converter. Im guessing the converter is locking at to low off rpms which is a time issue
Really? How often will I need to do this?
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Old Nov 24, 2018 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Caulin

Really? How often will I need to do this?
In my last post I meant it's a tune issue. If the problem is solved by gently pushing the brake, in turn unlocking the converter, then it can only be fixed in the tune.

I myself have mine tuned so it will not lock in 1st, 2nd or 3rd. Only in 4th gear and only above 55 mph.
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
In my last post I meant it's a tune issue. If the problem is solved by gently pushing the brake, in turn unlocking the converter, then it can only be fixed in the tune.

I myself have mine tuned so it will not lock in 1st, 2nd or 3rd. Only in 4th gear and only above 55 mph.
Should I do that too if I want it to be better for city driving? Excuse my ignorance on stalls. What is the benefit of locking only in 4th
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Caulin

Should I do that too if I want it to be better for city driving? Excuse my ignorance on stalls. What is the benefit of locking only in 4th
Doing so keeps the converter from constantly locking and unlocking in city driving along with lugging the motor with cammed cars causing some drivability/ bucking issues at way low rpms (which is what happens when the converter locks at low speeds).

If your car really does have 4.88 gears (way steep for a A4) then I would not have it lock up in 1st, 2nd or 3rd. Just 4th maybe around 40-45 mph. If it is indeed your converter locking up at low rpms this will take care of a lot of drivability issues. Im assuming this is a 4l60e?
Try what I explained in keeping the speed consistent when you feel the shudder and very lightly press the break and see if it goes away
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
Doing so keeps the converter from constantly locking and unlocking in city driving along with lugging the motor with cammed cars causing some drivability/ bucking issues at way low rpms (which is what happens when the converter locks at low speeds).

If your car really does have 4.88 gears (way steep for a A4) then I would not have it lock up in 1st, 2nd or 3rd. Just 4th maybe around 40-45 mph. If it is indeed your converter locking up at low rpms this will take care of a lot of drivability issues. Im assuming this is a 4l60e?
Try what I explained in keeping the speed consistent when you feel the shudder and very lightly press the break and see if it goes away
Okay I will, yes he said its 4.88 and I think that is just plain excessive. He also said it had a spool in it but honestly it doesn’t chirp on turns and the tires haven’t worn down excessively at all. I really don’t see why he would put such high gears in it. Yes it’s the 4l60e
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 10:58 AM
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4.88 AND a spool?? ON THE STREET??? Insane...
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 11:24 AM
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An IAC idle air control valve can cause your idle surge condition. You’ll hear air surging with the valve shifting/can’t make up it’s mind what the correct setting should be. eBay sells cheapies (about $25 delivered), if you’d like to try that route.
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
4.88 AND a spool?? ON THE STREET??? Insane...
Somebody had a death wish😂
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by gMAG
An IAC idle air control valve can cause your idle surge condition. You’ll hear air surging with the valve shifting/can’t make up it’s mind what the correct setting should be. eBay sells cheapies (about $25 delivered), if you’d like to try that route.
I tried that too, and honestly the surging reduced a bit but it’ll still do it.
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
4.88 AND a spool?? ON THE STREET??? Insane...
because racecar....
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
because racecar....
Sometimes maybe. He mentioned city driving, where having a spool is not smart.....
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 01:33 AM
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4.88's are for BIG tires,, 35" + They are also typically a fairly fragile gear set in some diffs, the ring is too thin and the pinion too small diameter for big torque.
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead
4.88's are for BIG tires,, 35" + They are also typically a fairly fragile gear set in some diffs, the ring is too thin and the pinion too small diameter for big torque.
I have nitto 295s on the back and it SPINS way too much.
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
Doing so keeps the converter from constantly locking and unlocking in city driving along with lugging the motor with cammed cars causing some drivability/ bucking issues at way low rpms (which is what happens when the converter locks at low speeds).

If your car really does have 4.88 gears (way steep for a A4) then I would not have it lock up in 1st, 2nd or 3rd. Just 4th maybe around 40-45 mph. If it is indeed your converter locking up at low rpms this will take care of a lot of drivability issues. Im assuming this is a 4l60e?
Try what I explained in keeping the speed consistent when you feel the shudder and very lightly press the break and see if it goes away
I tried the brake method you told me, and it definitely unlocks it, it almost feels like a soft down shift in a way but the shuddering goes away completely. So when I get it tuned I can tell them to only have lock in 4th? Will I still feel it shuddering?
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Caulin

I tried the brake method you told me, and it definitely unlocks it, it almost feels like a soft down shift in a way but the shuddering goes away completely. So when I get it tuned I can tell them to only have lock in 4th? Will I still feel it shuddering?
Have it lock in 4th and only above about 45 mph and you will not feel any shuddering/lugging.
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 11:17 PM
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i'm kinda surprised you are feeling that much shuddering at that MPH with those gears.
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