Hi All,

Looking to add to the car but want/need to keep it emmissions legal (not sure where I'll be moving next, but the probability of it needing to pass emissions is going to be high).

Car is a 1998 TA with the 3.23 factory gears and 4L60E A4 trans. So far I've added an SLP Y pipe and QTP cutout in the I pipe. Also a KN FIPK intake. Future goals may or may not include heads and cam, but that's 2+ years down the road.

I have a 1 grand budget and it's not flexible.

I live close to Vengeance and was going to go get a tune ($325) after I change anything else.


I have done extensive reading about exhaust options. The general consensus is that I won't be able to do LT's with Cats for my budget. It also seems that as far as exhaust goes, by current setup is pretty decent (with the cutout open). It seems that it will flow enough to benefit from adding an LS6 intake.

On to the intake, I've done my reading there as well. Seems like apart from going to a Fast 90-92-102 (there goes the budget) I'm looking at and LS6 intake, Dorman LS6, or Dorman LS2. With that research I've noticed that the Dorman LS2 is going to flow the best, however it takes a good deal of modifying to install that I may not really want to do. Next best being an LS6 intake, however I will need (not so much want) to retain the EGR system my car has incase future inspections are visual. This leaves me with a Dorman LS6 intake as my most budget friendly way to increase flow without extensive fabrication to make it fit.

In researching the installation of the Intakes I've noticed that some mention upgrading or changing in some way the knock sensors. Particularly to allow more room for a tune. Is this true? Is this something I should budget on and do as well? If so, what part am I looking for to pull that off?

Lastly, Does the plan of Dorman LS6 and a tune seem to be my best option at this point? What kind of gains am I likely to see in my car?

What else should I consider (TB, mid length/shorty headers, heads?)

Thank you all in advanced.

 

If you are moving to a state that has California emissions laws, any headers will need to have a CARB approval stamp on them, and all emission gear it came with should be on there and operational. Also, cats need to be OEM type and in their original location, or very close to it.

 

Yeah, this is my impression as well. I'm currently in the SE USA and it seems to be more of an OBD check than anything around Atlanta.

All in all part of my avoidance to doing anymore exhaust work for now. In a few more years the car will age itself out of needing emissions checks at all.

 

Here in Commifornia, they do the OBDII, but also a visual to see what, if anything, is missing.

 

I am simply amazed that they could look under the hood and know that it being a 98 model it is missing an EGR port if I were to install the LS6 intake. I dont want to play with the risk of having to spend more money and time down the road to replace or fix it though.

 

You live in Georgia? All they do is scan OBD for CEL.

 

Currently, but not sure where next.

 

I WISH that's all they did here! LOL

 

Ah I dug deeper and see it now.

What tests will be performed?

All subject vehicles will receive a three-part inspection:

• An OBD test to check the vehicle’s emissions control performance history.
• A fuel cap inspection to check for adequate seal.
• A visual inspection of the catalytic converter to check for tampering or removal.

 

Is that from CARB? Looks pretty close to what happens here.

 

This is helpful on the emissions clarification, but does anyone have an opinion on the build out?

 

If you are subject to a visual inspection, try to be as far under the radar as possible. Little to no lope on the cam, mild head mods are OK as they are not evident to the eye or ear (think bowl blend and good multiangle valve job).
Basically, if they can't see/hear/smell/scan any mods, you are clear.

 

Understood. That is why I'm waiting on the headers for now.

Do you have any experience with the dorman ls6 intake? Or what gains to expect from a tune at this point?

 

Dorman ls6 is good to go, intake and shorties may net you 20-30 hp gain. I would personally not do either yet and get a 3600 stall. That will give you way more power then both those mods. Or do those mods and get a more budget oriented converter such as this. https://www.circledspecialties.com/4l60-hp-series-278mm

 

I've briefly considered the stall option. I've never ridden in a stalled car, how does it affect daily driving? I have yet to take the car to the track and just drive it around and enjoy it in the mountains on occasion. I want to retain that driveability.

Thank you for the part listing, what stall would you suggest, and what are some other brands to look at or to avoid? Can this be done by myself in the garage, I'm assuming I would have to drop the transmission to do this?

 

I've been to different places for vehicle inspections and its usually the same everywhere I've went. Connect it to their computer, pop the hood and take a look around and do a pressure test on the gas cap. Some don't even bother to pop the hood and its lopedy in and lopedy out and I'm a good to go for another year...:

 

That's good. We get some real Barney Fife types who think they must swear allegiance to CARB.

 

It can be done yourself, trans has to be dropped. Just like anything else there are converters that favor performance for driveability. Typically, a 3600 stall ordered from circle D or yank is built to be fairly tight for street driving and flash only when you need it to.

I like circle d because I have done business with them and I had a great experience. Most people.here use yank I believe, I'm sure they are great too. I used the 3200 I listed and it drive amazing, couldnt tell it was there at all and had some decent kick to it when you floor it. The more expensive 3600 245mm is a little looser, still drives great imo and hits a lot harder. I wouldn't be scared to daily either but the 245 will almost blow your budget out.

 

Thanks for the info. I've looked into it more. I think I'll wait. I understand the benefits, but I dont want to add that extra abuse to the rear end and I'm not launching the car in that manner now anyways. This is all good to know and I can come back to this down the road if I go this route in the future.

I dont think I can drop the trans in my garage either, so my budget would be shot regardless of the converter I picked.

I'm assuming the drivetrain can take a few extra hp from an intake and tune and if I have any left I'll pick up some sub frame connectors.

 

Well I'd stick to suspension tires and bolt on in that case. Headers are usually easy, depending on room. What rear end do you have?