Full exhaust and lose power?
Full exhaust and lose power? This is my black car in my sig. Put on TSP 1 7/8 headers, their off-road y, and their cat-back. So I removed the cat-converters also. Not only has the car gained no power it feels like to me its actually lost power. The car really feels pathetic to be honest. Whether launching from 2000 rpm or hitting it on a roll. It feels like its gained nothing and even feels slower to me. Car has a mail-order tune. Its disappointing to say the least. I dred taking it to the track this weekend. It ran 8.77 at 82 last time with the BBK headers and cats on it. I can't figure out why the car has gained nothing. Makes no sense. It has new air filter, new fuel filter, new plugs and wires. So its definitely tuned up. I know it can lose some bottom end with the 1 7/8 but damn to gain nothing. Seems crazy.
butt-dyno doesn't mean much. take it to thet track and see if times bettered or worsened. headers, depending on the brand's design (primaries, runners, size, etc) would move the power band (usually up) from low-end to mid-range or even high-range.
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From: Michigan
They are the Texas Speed. I know 1 7/8 can sometimes cost some low-end power. But it just seems like a dog no matter where you hit it. It did come with a dump. I will probably open the dump and see if that helps any at the track. I've got a Yank 3600 SS I haven't installed yet. And of course I know that's the best thing you can do to one of these cars early on. I'm just getting the exhaust out of the way first.
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Definitely something else wrong. You must be getting KR or something pulling timing. Or all of your torque limits aren't maxed out. You need to tune KR out entirely and always run premium which is what I do, if you want your car to perform at it's best. Mods in sig, just a cam-only 346. I open the cut out have straight through 4" pipe after the 3" y-pipe . My car is no slug and it is definitely the quickest with the cut out open. So far I've been able to g-tech mid 11's on the street not even dead hooking, and I know this g-tech is almost dead on because I was using it at the drag strip years ago and it was always only 1 tenth variation from the proper track timers.
Definitely something else wrong. You must be getting KR or something pulling timing. Or all of your torque limits aren't maxed out. You need to tune KR out entirely and always run premium which is what I do, if you want your car to perform at it's best. Mods in sig, just a cam-only 346. I open the cut out have straight through 4" pipe after the 3" y-pipe . My car is no slug and it is definitely the quickest with the cut out open. So far I've been able to g-tech mid 11's on the street not even dead hooking, and I know this g-tech is almost dead on because I was using it at the drag strip years ago and it was always only 1 tenth variation from the proper track timers.
Last edited by 98LS1auto; Feb 27, 2020 at 12:11 AM.
Originally Posted by 98LS1auto
Its a mail order tune from the same guy who did all the tuning for Tick for years, So I would hope he knows something. Its mind boggling to me. How in the world can you remove the cats and do full exhaust basically and the car goes nowhere. It feels like it takes an hour for the rpms to even come up on it.
My exs car ran terrible with a lid & full exhaust before she had it tuned, car couldnt spin the tires anymore. it was very very lean it turned out, after it was live tuned it ripped.
Merge that comes together like the letter Y with a 90 degree or 120 degree angle will fight airflow. You want the merge to go parallel before the pipes merge.
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Both O2 sensors are brand new GM sensors. Its funny but after the mail-order tune I couldn't tell it made a bit of difference. Only thing I could tell from the tune is the transmission shifted harder. The car has never been able to spin the tires since the day I bought it. Even with the factory wheels and street tires it never would spin a lick. I had to powerbreak it to get the tires spinning. Its the same way now. But it has MT Drag radials on it. When I took it to the track it would not do a burnout in the box at the track. It would just push the entire car forward without even spinning the tires. I had to do my burnout in the water. Ha ha.
Merge that comes together like the letter Y with a 90 degree or 120 degree angle will fight airflow. You want the merge to go parallel before the pipes merge.
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Originally Posted by 98LS1auto
So basically Texas Speeds y-pipe is a POS and I just wasted money buying their stuff? Is that what you're saying?
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From: Michigan
I'm in the process of adding heads and I'm going to add the merge that Darth referenced though.