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Full exhaust and lose power?

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Old 02-26-2020 | 03:26 PM
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Default Full exhaust and lose power?

This is my black car in my sig. Put on TSP 1 7/8 headers, their off-road y, and their cat-back. So I removed the cat-converters also. Not only has the car gained no power it feels like to me its actually lost power. The car really feels pathetic to be honest. Whether launching from 2000 rpm or hitting it on a roll. It feels like its gained nothing and even feels slower to me. Car has a mail-order tune. Its disappointing to say the least. I dred taking it to the track this weekend. It ran 8.77 at 82 last time with the BBK headers and cats on it. I can't figure out why the car has gained nothing. Makes no sense. It has new air filter, new fuel filter, new plugs and wires. So its definitely tuned up. I know it can lose some bottom end with the 1 7/8 but damn to gain nothing. Seems crazy.
Old 02-26-2020 | 03:31 PM
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butt-dyno doesn't mean much. take it to thet track and see if times bettered or worsened. headers, depending on the brand's design (primaries, runners, size, etc) would move the power band (usually up) from low-end to mid-range or even high-range.
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Old 02-26-2020 | 03:40 PM
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if it is down in power a real tune will help.
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Old 02-26-2020 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by fst100
butt-dyno doesn't mean much. take it to thet track and see if times bettered or worsened. headers, depending on the brand's design (primaries, runners, size, etc) would move the power band (usually up) from low-end to mid-range or even high-range.
They are the Texas Speed. I know 1 7/8 can sometimes cost some low-end power. But it just seems like a dog no matter where you hit it. It did come with a dump. I will probably open the dump and see if that helps any at the track. I've got a Yank 3600 SS I haven't installed yet. And of course I know that's the best thing you can do to one of these cars early on. I'm just getting the exhaust out of the way first.
Old 02-26-2020 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by huggerls1
if it is down in power a real tune will help.
I will get one eventually. But hell its always a 4 month wait for that.
Old 02-26-2020 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 98LS1auto
They are the Texas Speed. I know 1 7/8 can sometimes cost some low-end power. But it just seems like a dog no matter where you hit it. It did come with a dump. I will probably open the dump and see if that helps any at the track. I've got a Yank 3600 SS I haven't installed yet. And of course I know that's the best thing you can do to one of these cars early on. I'm just getting the exhaust out of the way first.
TSP 1-7/8 headers pick up power everywhere. If you lost power its because of your tune or another issue.
Old 02-26-2020 | 11:00 PM
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Trunk monkey or the tune but take it on track before changing anything if nothing seems obviously wrong.
Old 02-27-2020 | 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob570
TSP 1-7/8 headers pick up power everywhere. If you lost power its because of your tune or another issue.
Its a mail order tune from the same guy who did all the tuning for Tick for years, So I would hope he knows something. Its mind boggling to me. How in the world can you remove the cats and do full exhaust basically and the car goes nowhere. It feels like it takes an hour for the rpms to even come up on it.
Old 02-27-2020 | 12:41 AM
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Definitely something else wrong. You must be getting KR or something pulling timing. Or all of your torque limits aren't maxed out. You need to tune KR out entirely and always run premium which is what I do, if you want your car to perform at it's best. Mods in sig, just a cam-only 346. I open the cut out have straight through 4" pipe after the 3" y-pipe . My car is no slug and it is definitely the quickest with the cut out open. So far I've been able to g-tech mid 11's on the street not even dead hooking, and I know this g-tech is almost dead on because I was using it at the drag strip years ago and it was always only 1 tenth variation from the proper track timers.
Old 02-27-2020 | 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by bad_408_vert
Trunk monkey or the tune but take it on track before changing anything if nothing seems obviously wrong.
I can't comment on "trunk monkey" because I have no clue what that is. Like I said its a mail-order tune from the same guy who did all the tuning for years for Tick Performance. I don't wanna say who it is because his business isn't a sponsor on here and the mods may not like that. I know one thing the gas mileage sucks on it. I can drive it 35 miles and its burnt a 1/4 tank of gas. But you look at all the plugs and they look fine. Hell actually they look a little lean. So that's confusing to me. It has some white smoke when you floor it but that would not indicate a rich condition. And the car runs nice and cool and never loses a drop of coolant. So I don't think it has any headgasket issues.
Old 02-27-2020 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Launch
Definitely something else wrong. You must be getting KR or something pulling timing. Or all of your torque limits aren't maxed out. You need to tune KR out entirely and always run premium which is what I do, if you want your car to perform at it's best. Mods in sig, just a cam-only 346. I open the cut out have straight through 4" pipe after the 3" y-pipe . My car is no slug and it is definitely the quickest with the cut out open. So far I've been able to g-tech mid 11's on the street not even dead hooking, and I know this g-tech is almost dead on because I was using it at the drag strip years ago and it was always only 1 tenth variation from the proper track timers.
Well I always run 93. And before I did all the exhaust when it had the BBK headers and lid I ran it a couple times with HP tuners hooked up and it showed absolutely no KR. So I doubt knock is the problem. I'll hook up HP tuners tomorrow an take it out and run it and see if i get any knock. But I don't think that's the issue. We'll see. Maybe it is. I might post a vid tomorrow of the tach and show ya'll how slow it gets going. I swear i think I can outrun the car on foot the first 100-200 ft. Ha ha. I actually posted the file from HP tuners back in December and asked if anyone could look at it and tell me what they thought. Not one person ever responded or said a word.

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Old 02-27-2020 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 98LS1auto
Its a mail order tune from the same guy who did all the tuning for Tick for years, So I would hope he knows something. Its mind boggling to me. How in the world can you remove the cats and do full exhaust basically and the car goes nowhere. It feels like it takes an hour for the rpms to even come up on it.
Fucked up merge pipe will do exactly that
Old 02-27-2020 | 11:14 AM
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new o2 sensors?
Old 02-27-2020 | 11:16 AM
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My exs car ran terrible with a lid & full exhaust before she had it tuned, car couldnt spin the tires anymore. it was very very lean it turned out, after it was live tuned it ripped.
Old 02-27-2020 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Fucked up merge pipe will do exactly that
Here are the headers and y installed. We didn't have the clamps on yet. But this is mounted. What could be wrong with the merge? There isn't a single blemish on any of the stuff. It all came brand new from Texas Speed.


Old 02-27-2020 | 11:33 AM
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Merge that comes together like the letter Y with a 90 degree or 120 degree angle will fight airflow. You want the merge to go parallel before the pipes merge.
Good:
Full exhaust and lose power?-photo387.jpg

Bad:Full exhaust and lose power?-photo84.jpg
Old 02-27-2020 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by SLP IROC-Z
My exs car ran terrible with a lid & full exhaust before she had it tuned, car couldn't spin the tires anymore. it was very very lean it turned out, after it was live tuned it ripped.
Both O2 sensors are brand new GM sensors. Its funny but after the mail-order tune I couldn't tell it made a bit of difference. Only thing I could tell from the tune is the transmission shifted harder. The car has never been able to spin the tires since the day I bought it. Even with the factory wheels and street tires it never would spin a lick. I had to powerbreak it to get the tires spinning. Its the same way now. But it has MT Drag radials on it. When I took it to the track it would not do a burnout in the box at the track. It would just push the entire car forward without even spinning the tires. I had to do my burnout in the water. Ha ha.
Old 02-27-2020 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Merge that comes together like the letter Y with a 90 degree or 120 degree angle will fight airflow. You want the merge to go parallel before the pipes merge.
Good:
Attachment 708897

Bad:Attachment 708896
So basically Texas Speeds y-pipe is a POS and I just wasted money buying their stuff? Is that what you're saying?
Old 02-27-2020 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 98LS1auto
So basically Texas Speeds y-pipe is a POS and I just wasted money buying their stuff? Is that what you're saying?
If it looks like the second pic yes. If it looks more like the first pic no.
Old 02-27-2020 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 98LS1auto
So basically Texas Speeds y-pipe is a POS and I just wasted money buying their stuff? Is that what you're saying?
IMO it's fine for a stock cam, basic bolt on setup, my car ran pretty well with their old style merge, I modified it to stay 3" instead of necking down to 2.75" and it's not killing too much power with my current "cam only" setup.

I'm in the process of adding heads and I'm going to add the merge that Darth referenced though.


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