General ?s, need some help with a no-start.
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General ?s, need some help with a no-start. Hello,
Not sure if this is correct place for this or not.
I'm working a ls swap, I do not have the mass air sensor hooked, nor do I have one, so is that my issue of this no-start situation? If not, I did a cam swap also, and made a stand alone harness. With that being said, there could be a number of different reasons for my no-start.
I will do a compression check tomorrow, and depending on that out come, I may or may not pull the front cover, and double check my timing marks. If none of those are my issue, I will grab another computer from the pick & pull, and just try it without removing vats.
Thanks.
Not sure if this is correct place for this or not.
I'm working a ls swap, I do not have the mass air sensor hooked, nor do I have one, so is that my issue of this no-start situation? If not, I did a cam swap also, and made a stand alone harness. With that being said, there could be a number of different reasons for my no-start.
I will do a compression check tomorrow, and depending on that out come, I may or may not pull the front cover, and double check my timing marks. If none of those are my issue, I will grab another computer from the pick & pull, and just try it without removing vats.
Thanks.
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Not to be mean, but, there are about 100 different things that can cause a no-start. The first time you take a pair of dykes to the wiring, you invoke at least 90 of them.
NOBODY OUT HERE is going to be able to tell you what's wrong after "made a stand-alone harness". My best guess would be, it has something to do with that.
No MAF won't cause it. It'll cause a run-like-crap, a Check Engine light, etc.; but it should at least start.
NOBODY OUT HERE is going to be able to tell you what's wrong after "made a stand-alone harness". My best guess would be, it has something to do with that.
No MAF won't cause it. It'll cause a run-like-crap, a Check Engine light, etc.; but it should at least start.
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From: over dere
Hello,
Not sure if this is correct place for this or not.
I'm working a ls swap, I do not have the mass air sensor hooked, nor do I have one, so is that my issue of this no-start situation? If not, I did a cam swap also, and made a stand alone harness. With that being said, there could be a number of different reasons for my no-start.
I will do a compression check tomorrow, and depending on that out come, I may or may not pull the front cover, and double check my timing marks. If none of those are my issue, I will grab another computer from the pick & pull, and just try it without removing vats.
Thanks.
Not sure if this is correct place for this or not.
I'm working a ls swap, I do not have the mass air sensor hooked, nor do I have one, so is that my issue of this no-start situation? If not, I did a cam swap also, and made a stand alone harness. With that being said, there could be a number of different reasons for my no-start.
I will do a compression check tomorrow, and depending on that out come, I may or may not pull the front cover, and double check my timing marks. If none of those are my issue, I will grab another computer from the pick & pull, and just try it without removing vats.
Thanks.
#1 cause of no start providing your harness is proper is the power to the ecu being interrupted when the ignition is put into the start position. That effectively turns off the ecu when you’re trying to start the engine. You need a power source to switch on the ecu when the key is on AND cranking.
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Hey Guys,
I did a quick compression test, only the first 2 cylinders on the front on each side, ranged from 150-180 cold. I have spark, I'm in the process of checking ignition timing, but for some reason my timing light is not working. Going to get some noid lights tonight, just double checking everything!
As for my power source, it's hot at all times, this is just a make shift test setup, just to make sure it runs.
My DD will not start if the MAF is disconnected, that's why I was asking, didn't want to chase my tail for nothing.
Thanks.
I did a quick compression test, only the first 2 cylinders on the front on each side, ranged from 150-180 cold. I have spark, I'm in the process of checking ignition timing, but for some reason my timing light is not working. Going to get some noid lights tonight, just double checking everything!
As for my power source, it's hot at all times, this is just a make shift test setup, just to make sure it runs.
My DD will not start if the MAF is disconnected, that's why I was asking, didn't want to chase my tail for nothing.
Thanks.
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From: over dere
Hey Guys,
I did a quick compression test, only the first 2 cylinders on the front on each side, ranged from 150-180 cold. I have spark, I'm in the process of checking ignition timing, but for some reason my timing light is not working. Going to get some noid lights tonight, just double checking everything!
As for my power source, it's hot at all times, this is just a make shift test setup, just to make sure it runs.
My DD will not start if the MAF is disconnected, that's why I was asking, didn't want to chase my tail for nothing.
Thanks.
I did a quick compression test, only the first 2 cylinders on the front on each side, ranged from 150-180 cold. I have spark, I'm in the process of checking ignition timing, but for some reason my timing light is not working. Going to get some noid lights tonight, just double checking everything!
As for my power source, it's hot at all times, this is just a make shift test setup, just to make sure it runs.
My DD will not start if the MAF is disconnected, that's why I was asking, didn't want to chase my tail for nothing.
Thanks.
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From: over dere
Thread Starter
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Well, I tested all of the injectors with a noid light, all checked good, checked ignition timing, looks good, I redid the main power connection, making improvements to the fuel setup, and using the other pcm. I see no reason for this not to fire up, and run for 3 secs till vats kills it. I won't do another test fire till this weekend.
Stampede.
Stampede.
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I used a camera scope to bring number 1 cylinder top dead center, put paint mark on the balancer, bolted a piece of welding rod to the block, and bent it close to the mark. Then I used a timing light to see how close the "spark" is in relation to the piston.
Stampede.
Stampede.