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hello, im kinda new at this ls1 thing. im reinstalling my balancer, i bought an install tool, but i dont really have the resources to ability to put correctly torque the balancer bolt. i have read multiple how too's that say just get a few good "ugga ugga's' with my milwaukee high torque impact gun and it should be fine. to me it doesnt seem to be fully seated, here are some pictures, please tell me your opions
that is not fully seated. What install tool are you using?? You should be getting enough clearance from the bottom if you did not remove the radiator (doesn't sound like you did) then it is tight but you should be able to install the balancer and torque the bolt
that is not fully seated. What install tool are you using?? You should be getting enough clearance from the bottom if you did not remove the radiator (doesn't sound like you did) then it is tight but you should be able to install the balancer and torque the bolt
. I did remove the radiator, I used the threaded rod and nut tool. Would you suggest pulling this bolt (it's a new balancer bolt). Out and using the old bolt to try to get the balancer bolt in there more or just use this bolt and keep tightening it? I'm just so afraid of breaking something with all this torque
I haven't checked but do parts places like Oreilly's loan an install tool? Maybe a loaner torque wrench?
I have a real install tool but before that I used a metric threaded rod that screwed all the way into the crank. Then using a nut and enough washers. I also greased up the washers.
I just installed an ATI balancer on my LS. With the install tool you will feel when the balancer stops. Do not use an impact wrench. I would never use an impact wrench on something like this, for install. You should be able to still torque it as is required. You do not want to rely on an impact wrench and who knows what torque it is, and you shouldn't use it anyway. If using the long bolt install tool, then just run it down with a ratchet and that way you will for feel when the balancer is seated. When using TTY bolts, you never use the new bolt to install the damper. I always just save the old balancer bolts and then I can use them when I install a damper, then remove the bolt and use a brand new one and follow the tech instructions.
I don't think I'd do the 240 ft pounds to seat it. Get it seated where it stops and then do the whatever the recommended torque is and then the number of degrees you are supposed to add after that.
See what others say about it, of course, as I am pretty new to LS engines in particular. Hope some of this helped. It can be a real pain getting in there sometimes.
ok, i pulled off the balancer and put some more oil on the shaft so it would slide in easier, i tried to reinstall the balancer and it got to the same spo and i cant turn the bolt any more, i used my impact on its lowest setting (because i cant turn it by hand) and now the balancer just starts spinning around the crank. what am i doing wrong?
ok, i pulled off the balancer and put some more oil on the shaft so it would slide in easier, i tried to reinstall the balancer and it got to the same spo and i cant turn the bolt any more, i used my impact on its lowest setting (because i cant turn it by hand) and now the balancer just starts spinning around the crank. what am i doing wrong?
Using the install tool and if its bottoming out you may have it installed properly. If the accessorie belt doesn't line up to the accessories you have an issue.
I used the Summit tool and cranked till it would crank no more. As soon as the pulley squeezes the lower cam gear up to the crank it wont go any farther. Pop a belt on it and and check alignment. Youll find out right quick how things set.
I always use anti seize on the inside of the balancer, it prevents it from binding up and hopping on the crank as you tighten it which can create galling on the crank. Goes on much smoother this way.
I would buy a or borrow a torque wrench and tighten it down to spec. You really have no idea what torque you are tightening it to with an impact gun.
Torque it down, check the belt alignment. If it looks good, run it and as mentioned you'll quickly know if it's not seated as it'll throw the belt, even 1/4 inch would likely throw the belt just cranking.
FWIW stock balancers usually go on pretty easily but ATI balancers often fit very tight. You are supposed to hone ATI balancers to fit. Many guys will tell you they were able to install it by heating the balancer in the oven or what not but the reality factory cranks have a tolerance RANGE of a few thousandths and ATI balancers are designed to fit tight when on the low side of this tolerance range, so if your crank is on the high side the installation could be very difficult. They aren't supposed to fit so tight that they skip on the crank but many of us install them like this anyway out of laziness/unwillingness to get them honed. They only need to fit tight enough to adequately transfer vibration and a keyway should be preventing it from spinning.
looking further into this, it looks like the aftermarket balancer (a doorman 594-127) is about an inch shorter than the stock balancer. so, the snout of the balancer does not go into the timing cover seal. will this be ok ? because it does appear that the belts will line up
My install tool was being a brat on my last install dogged up on me I think I had an 1/8th to go for it to be seated I took my harbor freight breaker bar with a 2ft cheater and cranked it the rest of the way on with the actual new bolt bouncing all of my 150lb weight on. If you don't apply a good amount of torque you can bet on it coming out. But from the pic it appears you have the ac belt on lined up pretty well or no? The shiny gap looks a bit much tho
Last edited by Guy with a Chevy; Feb 13, 2023 at 08:27 PM.
Yes the belts appear to be lined up, I can swear that this balancer (doorman part 594-127) is an inch shorter (3 inches, and the gm balancer is 4). But all the cross references show this is the right part.
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balancer install? 
