Throttle body pricing?
Taking for example 92mm DBC units with TPS and IAC sensors, there seem to be two tiers — about $100-200, or $400-500:
CX Racing: $90
Speed Engineering: $100
Jegs: $166
FiTech: $192
ISR Performance: $200
Holley Sniper: $229 (a slight outlier)
Nick Williams: $399
Motion Raceworks ICON: $449
FAST Big Mouth: $529
I have found no apparent or claimed distinction between them. Am I missing something, or are the more expensive ones just gouging? Why would/should I pay more than $400?
As an aside, Holley’s 102mm costs an extra $10 — which is fine. But then there’s a 105mm with “low RPM taper” (not explained anywhere on the product page) for another five hundred dollars. WTF?!
To be clear, I have money. I’m not just a poor guy bitching about parts he can’t afford. At the same time, I’m not an idiot — I spend money when it makes sense. I am just stumped about what could possibly make the more expensive tier worth a hill of beans. Can anyone explain?
FWIW, I bought the Speed Engineering one for my LS3 swap. If it ends up giving me trouble that is resolved by upgrading to something more expensive, I'll come back here and say so.
If it works perfectly, I might not remember to come back, but if you're wondering, feel free to reply here -- that'll remind me to follow up..
One of my subs that works for me has a turbo single cab Silverado. It was a N/A truck for a year before going turbo. He put heads, cam, intake, headers on it and a Holley TB. Same deal as my nephews build, couldn’t get the idle right and anything around the idle table was a mess. I convinced him to spend the coin on a NW TB. His tuner said the same thing. So he got the NW and it’s night and day. He thanked me every day for weeks. Both of these vehicles are drive by cable, Gen3 engines, fwiw.
If anyone has specific experience with the Speed Engineering 92mm, I'd love to hear about it.
What's the underlying problem? Consistency of the the built-in IAC and TPS?
Last edited by wannafbody; Jul 27, 2023 at 09:31 PM.
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From what I have read here so far, it sounds like it’s probably not gouging.
Also, the “it’s not gouging” option has all but one of the votes. Which means nearly everyone agrees with you that it’s not gouging, so I don’t understand why you think people don’t understand?
From what I have read here so far, it sounds like it’s probably not gouging.
Also, the “it’s not gouging” option has all but one of the votes. Which means nearly everyone agrees with you that it’s not gouging, so I don’t understand why you think people don’t understand?
Anyway, the basic necessities part was an example. Price gouging can happen with any kind of product or service. That said, it’s less problematic when applied to luxuries rather than necessities.
To be a bit pedantic: cars are generally considered a necessity in most US cities, and most cars don’t work so well without a throttle body. (And before you say it, yes, I recognize that nobody needs a car with so much horsepower that it needs a 92+mm throttle body — I’m just having some fun here.)
Taking for example 92mm DBC units with TPS and IAC sensors, there seem to be two tiers — about $100-200, or $400-500:
CX Racing: $90
Speed Engineering: $100
Jegs: $166
FiTech: $192
ISR Performance: $200
Holley Sniper: $229 (a slight outlier)
Nick Williams: $399
Motion Raceworks ICON: $449
FAST Big Mouth: $529
I have found no apparent or claimed distinction between them. Am I missing something, or are the more expensive ones just gouging? Why would/should I pay more than $400?
As an aside, Holley’s 102mm costs an extra $10 — which is fine. But then there’s a 105mm with “low RPM taper” (not explained anywhere on the product page) for another five hundred dollars. WTF?!
To be clear, I have money. I’m not just a poor guy bitching about parts he can’t afford. At the same time, I’m not an idiot — I spend money when it makes sense. I am just stumped about what could possibly make the more expensive tier worth a hill of beans. Can anyone explain?
Everything about the Icon TB was 1000x better than the cheap TB I didn't have to screw around with it I just bolted it on and the engine fired right up. Buy a good TB once and be done with it

















