ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

I appreciate someone actually sticking to real Boltons instead of whatever definition fits what's in their head. You'll want to run a FAST or MSD intake with the biggest TB and speed density if you're not already. People have made more power on Ethanol than pump gas but it's been on heavily modified vehicles revving quite high. Thinner oil will reduce friction losses too. Vacuum pumps on the crankcase are worth some power as well.

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

Add a crank scraper unless you don’t consider it a bolt on since you have to drop the oil pan.

This is a serious suggestion - nitromethane. The ultimate oxygenated fuel. You need a massive fuel system but it would make a ton of power.

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

failrily certain nitro would be considered cheating, the crank scraper I would have to wrap my head around and see, but would probably lean towards not allowed as well. Thanks for the input though I hadn’t thought of that before.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

Cylinder heads are "bolt ons" too.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

What about valvesprings? They almost could be considered a maintenance item. If you put better springs and lighter retainers, you might could get a couple hundred more rpm.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

People have swapped in LS6 springs and cam because it came from the factory that way on a Z06 LS1. All part of the murky grey area lol.

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Not murky IMO, prohibited. It’s an upgrade from factory internal parts. I remember a car that was an early ls1 and swapped to 241 (later ls1 heads) and was disqualified. The early ls1s have a bigger cam and the later have better heads but average about the same.

Point being, any internal things like this is cheating.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

all depends who you ask. It's been debated on here ad nauseum over the years. Everyone wanted a participation trophy to claim they were still a bolton.

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Anyone who actually participated in the “stock internal” era knows what’s up. Folks have made
up their own nonsense since then aka “you can bolt on a blower/nitrous etc etc” but defeats the purpose.

Theres little to no actual debate. It can’t be opened up and it has to be n/a. Anything else is folks trying to get there stuff included when it shouldn’t be bc they are too slow to compete normally. #endrant 😂

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I saw electric water pump and underdrive crank pulley mentioned, but you could further reduce accessory load by deleting the power steering. I don't think I saw that mentioned yet. This would still qualify for 'stock internal/bolt-on' even by the strictest of definitions IMO, and will have the added benefit of reducing weight (assuming you eliminate the system rather than just omit it from the belt path).

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

I wish you were around a decade ago LOLOL.

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Thank for the input. I plan to run a short belt and alter the path like you said. At this point not wanting to delete the power steering altogether

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

I’ve been here since 04, but did disappear from 2011-15 or something like that lol

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

1.8 RR and valve springs

Bspeck82

He can't

MuhThugga

You don't have to delete it entirely. You could go with an electric unit.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

that is a complete waste of time. I deleted my power steering, removed the heaving steering gear box (third gen) and put a tubular K member on the car only to lose 1/10 of a second in the 1/4. Total waste of time, money and effort. Plus I ruined the car because it drove like **** with manual steering. I stopped driving it because of that. Power steering takes maybe 1hp of parasitic drag because you aren’t turning in the drag strip.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a true ram air setup that forces cool air in the engine? In the tune, make sure you zero out IAT timing correction up to about 150f so it’s not pulling timing too low. You could play with EOIT in the tune also. (End of injection timing). Sometimes there’s a little power to be found there too but I’m not sure if it’ll help with a stock cam. You need the highest stall (that you can tolerate) with a high multiplication factor. Thinner oil. Thinner diff fluid. Lower the car a little if it’s not lowered. Less drag. Battery in the trunk if it’s not there yet. Lighter rotors if you can afford it. Make sure the pads do not drag.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

There is only so much you can do to stay within the prescribed "rules". Many things are a waste of time on their own; put together, it might be worth just enough to put you/keep you at #1. Sounds like that's what the OP is aiming for, hence nothing is a waste of time if it adds to the bottom line, even just a little, when the rules are tight. The weight savings alone is worth something in this case. Remember, don't just look for ONE place to lose 100 pounds, look for 100 places to lose 1 pound.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

true true. But I think back and ask myself if I’d rather run 11.56 and still like/enjoy the car or would I rather run 11.47 and ruin/hate driving the car. I think I’d rather have found that .90 somewhere else. And keep in mind, I deleted pump, gear box and did a K member. Simply removing the pump on a 4th gen will probably make no difference because the steering doesn’t rob power when you aren’t turning. Has anyone done a back to back of running with the steering pump connected and then bypassed? That’d be interesting.