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Old Nov 10, 2023 | 08:01 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Remember, don't just look for ONE place to lose 100 pounds, look for 100 places to lose 1 pound.
I like to say watch the ounces and the pounds take care of themselves.
if op is serious about any kind of real record these are the sorts of approaches that will make or break it.
My bug is already ‘sorta’ light so I’ve been playing with cutting ounces here and there. Here’s a couple examples of steel motor mounts I remade in titanium.



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Old Nov 10, 2023 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by MuhThugga
You don't have to delete it entirely. You could go with an electric unit.
I have thought about that, especially if it could save weight. Currently at the track it’s just a 2min job to swap belts and bypass power steering. That way I still have it on the street but can pick up anything extra at the track

Originally Posted by Kfxguy
Do you have a true ram air setup that forces cool air in the engine? In the tune, make sure you zero out IAT timing correction up to about 150f so it’s not pulling timing too low. You could play with EOIT in the tune also. (End of injection timing). Sometimes there’s a little power to be found there too but I’m not sure if it’ll help with a stock cam. You need the highest stall (that you can tolerate) with a high multiplication factor. Thinner oil. Thinner diff fluid. Lower the car a little if it’s not lowered. Less drag. Battery in the trunk if it’s not there yet. Lighter rotors if you can afford it. Make sure the pads do not drag.
I’ll look into the tuning parameters you describe, the other items are being figured out or done already. I prefer ultralight battery upfront opposed to in back though. My weight bias isn’t an issue at this power level and running it to the back ads a good deal of weight in cable/box etc

Originally Posted by RPM WS6
There is only so much you can do to stay within the prescribed "rules". Many things are a waste of time on their own; put together, it might be worth just enough to put you/keep you at #1. Sounds like that's what the OP is aiming for, hence nothing is a waste of time if it adds to the bottom line, even just a little, when the rules are tight. The weight savings alone is worth something in this case. Remember, don't just look for ONE place to lose 100 pounds, look for 100 places to lose 1 pound.
Exactly right.
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Old Nov 21, 2023 | 06:54 PM
  #43  
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Look into @Darth_V8r @HioSSilver @big_hammer and a few others who've gone down this road. Try searching the dyno section.
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Old Jan 17, 2024 | 08:53 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by jmilz28
Look into @Darth_V8r @HioSSilver @big_hammer and a few others who've gone down this road. Try searching the dyno section.
I have, but they do some things that don't count as "Stock Internal" such as rockers etc.

Anyone have thoughts on lightweight under drive pulleys like Innovators West? Any pick up over a heavier SLP/Powerbond etc?
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Old Jan 17, 2024 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Magnet
I have, but they do some things that don't count as "Stock Internal" such as rockers etc.

Anyone have thoughts on lightweight under drive pulleys like Innovators West? Any pick up over a heavier SLP/Powerbond etc?
You the man!
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Old Jan 17, 2024 | 09:47 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Magnet
I have, but they do some things that don't count as "Stock Internal" such as rockers etc.

Anyone have thoughts on lightweight under drive pulleys like Innovators West? Any pick up over a heavier SLP/Powerbond etc?
everything adds up. Rotating weight makes more difference than static weight.
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Old Jan 17, 2024 | 10:12 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy
everything adds up. Rotating weight makes more difference than static weight.
For sure. Looking for experience of one over the other. One of the above, might have been Hio, can't remember now, said they went to a Innovators west and belt going form crank to alternator and picked up consistent 1.5mph in 1/4. I'm not sure if that's over stock or over a different pulley aka SLP etc. Haven't found much other info
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Old Jan 18, 2024 | 06:32 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy
that is a complete waste of time. I deleted my power steering, removed the heaving steering gear box (third gen) and put a tubular K member on the car only to lose 1/10 of a second in the 1/4. Total waste of time, money and effort. Plus I ruined the car because it drove like **** with manual steering. I stopped driving it because of that. Power steering takes maybe 1hp of parasitic drag because you aren’t turning in the drag strip.
This sounds more sound than the 11 second bolt-on pass.
How’d the OP run an 11 second 1/4 mile? Is it “stock” like the “pro stocks?”
*Edit*
Dang, 11 second bolt-ons.. Is the recipe leaving at redline and being able to have tires that’ll hold it? There’s a pretty big spread between the slower and faster bolt-on cars (would 13’s to 11’s be fair to say?). At any rate an 11 some odd 1/4 mile is insane fast for a 300 and some odd rear horse car that’s not exactly go-kart sized.

Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; Jan 18, 2024 at 06:57 PM.
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Old Jan 18, 2024 | 06:35 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Y2K_Frenzy
This sounds more sound than the 11 second bolt-on pass.
How’d the OP run an 11 second 1/4 mile? Is it “stock” like the “pro stocks?”
Originally Posted by RPM WS6
There is only so much you can do to stay within the prescribed "rules". Many things are a waste of time on their own; put together, it might be worth just enough to put you/keep you at #1. Sounds like that's what the OP is aiming for, hence nothing is a waste of time if it adds to the bottom line, even just a little, when the rules are tight. The weight savings alone is worth something in this case. Remember, don't just look for ONE place to lose 100 pounds, look for 100 places to lose 1 pound.
100 lbs is good for a 1/10 or so?
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Old Jan 18, 2024 | 06:41 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Magnet
Trying to push my car with bolt ons only…. What is the No limit bolt ons? Stock internal 346 Ls1

What Im currently thinking but open for input:

1 7/8 wrapped longtube headers
True duals/dumps
Mamo ported 102mm fast intake/TB
Chrs1313 pro stock ram air
SLP under drive pulley
Meziere electric water pump
GZ Motorsports vacuum pump
Proper tune
NGK 55
MSD wires

Up for consideration/discussion:
- aftermarket/upgraded coils
- e85
other…?
Ignition components make zero horsepower. If it’s lighting the fire off that’s as good as it gets.
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Old Jan 18, 2024 | 09:17 PM
  #51  
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I've seen a bunch of suggestions here and read some of your other threads about weight reduction but I haven't seen anyone mention aluminum exhaust..you mentioned using true duals dumped at axle..I'd suggest doing an aluminum Y pipe with 4" single and an aluminum muffler dumped before the axle..look up Herfurth aluminum racing mufflers.
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Old Jan 18, 2024 | 09:25 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Y2K_Frenzy
Ignition components make zero horsepower. If it’s lighting the fire off that’s as good as it gets.
True, BUT, if the ignition components aren't well-designed, replacing them with better components will then regain the power "lost" by the bad quality (some possibly OEM) parts.
Or even replacing points/condenser ignition with a solid state (like Pertronix) ignition module.
So yeah, ignition components don't make more power, just regain that power lost with weak ignitions.
BTW, LS OEM ignitions (coils and wires) are proven pretty good. Nothing aftermarket has shown conclusive improvement.
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Old Jan 18, 2024 | 10:29 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Y2K_Frenzy
This sounds more sound than the 11 second bolt-on pass.
How’d the OP run an 11 second 1/4 mile? Is it “stock” like the “pro stocks?”
*Edit*
Dang, 11 second bolt-ons.. Is the recipe leaving at redline and being able to have tires that’ll hold it? There’s a pretty big spread between the slower and faster bolt-on cars (would 13’s to 11’s be fair to say?). At any rate an 11 some odd 1/4 mile is insane fast for a 300 and some odd rear horse car that’s not exactly go-kart sized. Bolt-on power
Yes, there’s a large margin between average joe/casual racer and someone trying to push a specific car/rule set to its limits.

My 6 speed Stock Internal build thread HERE

My new auto Stock Internal build thread HERE
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Old Jan 18, 2024 | 10:34 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by BFK86
I've seen a bunch of suggestions here and read some of your other threads about weight reduction but I haven't seen anyone mention aluminum exhaust..you mentioned using true duals dumped at axle..I'd suggest doing an aluminum Y pipe with 4" single and an aluminum muffler dumped before the axle..look up Herfurth aluminum racing mufflers.
I like the idea of aluminum. Even my short dumps weigh more then I’d like. I really could get rid of my little baby Dynmax mufflers too, not sure they even do anything 😂

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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 06:31 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Magnet
Yes, there’s a large margin between average joe/casual racer and someone trying to push a specific car/rule set to its limits.

My 6 speed Stock Internal build thread HERE

My new auto Stock Internal build thread HERE
I guess I was just surprised by where the “limits” are since I’ve read about “cam only” (everything but heads) cars running low 12’s. So I was thinking that was about the norm. It seems like it’d be harder to sell cams and heads than it is since stock they can go from mid 13’s all the way down to high/mid 11’s. 😂
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy
Do you have a true ram air setup that forces cool air in the engine? In the tune, make sure you zero out IAT timing correction up to about 150f so it’s not pulling timing too low. You could play with EOIT in the tune also. (End of injection timing). Sometimes there’s a little power to be found there too but I’m not sure if it’ll help with a stock cam. You need the highest stall (that you can tolerate) with a high multiplication factor. Thinner oil. Thinner diff fluid. Lower the car a little if it’s not lowered. Less drag. Battery in the trunk if it’s not there yet. Lighter rotors if you can afford it. Make sure the pads do not drag.
battery in trunk is a joke! Cables to run to back is HEAVIER thank just going with a light weight lithium battery in stock location.
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 08:08 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Dan45
battery in trunk is a joke! Cables to run to back is HEAVIER thank just going with a light weight lithium battery in stock location.
Preach. The only reason I would consider it is if I was in a class with weight restrictions.

my lithium weighs 3.8lbs

Last edited by Magnet; Jan 19, 2024 at 08:32 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 08:49 AM
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Stock ignition coils are just fine. People have ran them to 1400+ whp... I would say your best bet is to just find as much weight to take out as you can. K member, replace the carpet and padding with ozite. Gut the hvac out of it. Ditch the airbags and factory wheel... Lightweight steering column. Lighter wheels obviously. Aerospace or tbm brakes. Lighter door cards made out of abs or something. Lexan hatch window, lexan door windows..
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 02EBC5Z06
Stock ignition coils are just fine. People have ran them to 1400+ whp... I would say your best bet is to just find as much weight to take out as you can. K member, replace the carpet and padding with ozite. Gut the hvac out of it. Ditch the airbags and factory wheel... Lightweight steering column. Lighter wheels obviously. Aerospace or tbm brakes. Lighter door cards made out of abs or something. Lexan hatch window, lexan door windows..
I appreciate the input but I have the weight reduction handled/in process, but looking for input on power with this thread.
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 09:12 AM
  #60  
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FYI I kept stock wires and went TR6 plugs as my tuner preferred them bc they gave him more room to safely play apparently.

I also bit the unnecessary bullet and put a heat shield under my intake.

Things I’m still kicking around:

-E85
-Crank scraper
-Changing under drive pulley for a lighter version like Innnovators West
-Some kind of crossover for exhaust, right now it’s just dumped after headers
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