JacobChevys

Same old adage with weight, every 100lbs is a tenth. 5mph is not a “set” number, nor is it the average.

WITH a proper tune, I think 3-5 is realistic.

10mph is a good gain in the 8th with 100rwhp! Was that with a power adder?

Im sure the OP will see a nice difference with the tune!

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

This I can agree with, especially for a car that's starting from a 100% stock tune. Even without the headers or any hard modifications at all, there is usually a bit to be gained from tuning, ~1mph or so, maybe a bit more in some cases. So when adding LT headers and simultaneously tuning for such, as well as generally cleaning up the stock tune, I think a total of 3-5mph is realistic. That is, assuming that the rest of the exhaust system can keep up and not inhibit the gains from the LTs (such as poor flowing/poor condition cats, subpar exhaust system/muffler, etc.)

Y2K_Frenzy

Yeah it was with 6-8 psi kit on a push rod 5.0 so it wasn’t exactly setting the world on fire but it was a decent gain. Prior to the blower it would do something like 70 mph in the 1/8 and after the best I did was 82 but I may have been running with a clogged cat at that time, I can’t recall anymore. The tires were also fairly cruddy so I pretty much had to drive out of the hole and then get on it.
I wonder if the OP’s is an auto or manual? If auto have the tuner guy play with the transmission tuning. If it’s a manual, maybe his mph is “low” partly due to the driver. It takes a butt-load of runs to become “good.” I haven’t been to the track in a long time and when I was going I can’t ever say that I was “good.” After headers maybe throw some tires on that monster. Especially if it’s a manual.

CrimsonT/A

Y2K- it's an auto, with factory 3.23 gears and she's got plenty of traction with the toyo triple 8's. I used to have traction problems before the headers, now it kind of "bogs" a bit if that makes sense and then takes off...

Y2K_Frenzy

I bet the bog is gone after the tune. Good luck and let us know. My Z28 is an auto as well and it’s stock at the moment so I’ll be following your progress. Two tenths of a second knocked off of an e/t isn’t anything to sneeze at really for what that’s worth.

CrimsonT/A

Thanks Y2K. I'll let you know how it goes 🤘🏻

CrimsonT/A

Update!

Got the car back from the tune today and while I wasn't able to get a chance to play around with it this afternoon I can tell you that I was a bit shocked at the Dyno result. My previous Dyno was 301 hp and 291 tq. On same Mustang Dyno it made 336 hp and 358 tq. (The Dyno jet adjustment is 366 hp if anyone's wondering). A 35 hp gain is great but a 67 tq gain is a crazy high number , what's everyone's thoughts on that?
If I get a chance to take her out tonight, I'll let you know how it feels.

Finkledbody

that sounds about right. Most make 330-350 depending on how generous the dyno is that day. I think My last bolt on fbody made 344hp, within margin.

you got a torque converter in that thing yet? If not, that should be ur next mod as that tends to make the biggest difference in acceleration times.

CrimsonT/A

I agree, the horsepower number seems accurate, and I'm not complaining, the torque number seems high but I'm very happy with that

I have a 3k stall and cooler picked out from Hawks Motorsports. Planning that in a few months.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

For an A4 '98-'00 LS1 with just catted LTs and lid/CAI, even with a pulley, the numbers seem high for a Mustang dyno (and the DynoJet adjustment seems especially high...nearly 370rwhp for those mods?...sounds like a "happy" dyno to me), but the real tale will be told by your new trap speeds. Did they lock the converter on the dyno? Do you have any modifications not listed in your signature?

Again, I just wouldn't get too excited until you see the new trap speeds.

Y2K_Frenzy

Very nice. Just curious but did they adjust the shift points and torque management this time or last? If so, is there any discernible difference vs stock?

CrimsonT/A

Hey RPM- I honestly don't know if they locked the converter on the Dyno, my educated guess would be yes. Had a fairly long discussion with the guy who did the tune later that day and he came off as very knowledgeable. All of the mods in my sig are exactly what I have.

CrimsonT/A

When I asked the guy who performed the tune if he did any torque management or shift points he said no.
I was surprised by that answer but according to what he said the way the transmission is running right now is exactly where it needs to be...
Having said that, I think I'm going to have a trans go shift kit installed along with the stall converter this summer.

CrimsonT/A

Quick update:

I was able to play around with the car a little over the weekend and it is much MUCH more fun to drive. Where my bottom end was heavily impacted previously, now have traction problems again even with the Toyo R888-R's. I'm very happy with the tune and I can absolutely feel a big difference in power. What will that equate to on draggy or the track.. we'll find out.

JacobChevys

Good to hear, as it should!

Keep us updated 👍

Y2K_Frenzy

Don’t get buy a “Corvette servo” as it already has one.

BFK86

iTrader: (1)

I'd go with a bigger stall than 3k..the common converter alot of people go with is a 3600 for a bolt on car. Or even 4000 depending what you use the car for. Also don't cheap out, a good converter will make or break how it performs. Go with a good brand like yank, FTI, circle D, PTC etc..If you plan on keeping it a bolt on only you'll want more stall as the less power you make the tighter the converter will feel. Start adding heads, cam and intake and the converter will get looser the more power you make. With a full weight TA, bolt ons and tune and a 3600-4000 stall you should easily drop a second in ET.

Y2K_Frenzy

How “loose” of a converter does one want or need if there isn’t a drag strip around? What’s usually the actual stall or a 3600 stall converter in a 300 and some odd rear horse car? Will most of them really stall that high or does it take more than bolt-on power to get it up there? Since this is a street car maybe focus on shift extension more so than stall speed. How often are you going to launch it at 3k?

CrimsonT/A

So my main question there would be drivability. I still want this car to drive easy enough and comfortable enough, (especially with a girlfriend who isn't a car person). If 3000 knocks off a few tents and gets me into the high twelves I'm good with that. Still debating if I want to go forced induction or Cam heads an intake. I would love to see your roots style supercharger on there but when I look at the cost of the supercharger, the transmission rebuild, and the rear end rebuild it makes me rethink if it's worth the cost. I doubt I'll keep this car forever and I'll never be able to recoup those costs.

CrimsonT/A

I agree, this car really is St. 90% of the time unless I do happen to get up to the track in Bradenton so if it drives better with a 3000 then that's all I need. That and a shift kit.
on that note, when I bought the car there was a hypertech tuner that came with it that I know can firm up the shift points. Has anyone firmed shift points with a tuner and if so how much firmer is safe to go?