Hi all, I am new here to the site. I want to say I have looked through a few threads that may relate to my problem, but I am not sure that I have found a solution yet. I currently have a 1999 Z28 Convertible with the factory LS1 in it. The only aftermarket thing on the motor is the Hooker Blackheart shorty headers. I have no issues with them other than the plug wire boot cylinder 6 which is second to the back on the passenger side. They keep melting. I have the MSD plug wires on it part number 32813. They have the bendable angles. However I cannot seem to get it to 90 degrees. However if I am able to get it to 90 degrees, it still wants to rest on a header tube. I have heat socks on the plug wires too (probably not the highest quality). I am not sure what to do other than to remove the aftermarket header and put the factory ones back on. Have any of you had any issues like this. If so do you have any ideas on some solutions? If there is any information I have missed please let me know. Thanks in advance.

 

I have a set of ceramic boot wires made by Accel … solved my problem 👍

 

Did you get the angled ones? Or do you have a part number for the ones you have? ACCEL Extreme 9000 Ceramic Boot Spark Plug Wire Set,

• ACCEL 9001CK: Features 90-degree black ceramic boots, suitable for custom routing.
  
• ACCEL 9002C: Comes with 135-degree white ceramic boots, offering flexibility in tight spaces
  

 

DEI makes a Nomex fabric sleeve that slides over the boot and works well with headers.

 

Can you BFH that primary tube to gain more clearance.

 

I have the white angled ones. The number was 9004C, according to my amazon history.

I had sleeves on my wires previously… the dyno guy who found the burned wires (only noticeable miss under full load) said the sleeves were useless, they just hide where the wires burn through.

 

On my LS swap engines I use the stock spark plugs tin shields. Running headers. Zero issues.

 

I'm using Duralast spark plug wires and the nomex sleeves with headers.

 

Unfortunately MSD makes great plug wires but their boots are junk. You can buy just the ceramic boots and fit them on your MSD wires. Accel and Pertronix (same as Accel) offer just the boots in a kit available on Amazon. I've been running them on a turbo motor for years.

 

From what I've seen... If the boot or wire is touching the manifold in any way, its going to burn through eventually. Doesn't matter what product you use. Need a small air gap of some sort. In most cases you can simply mark the manifold where its burning the wire. Then remove it and beat that section of the header in with a hammer. Its not going to hurt performance. Billet ICT makes a universal plug kit that has small tight 90's and 45's. With LONG wires. That way you can go under/over or however you need to route it.

May look horrible. But you can run a length of bailing wire down the plug wire. Then wrap layers and layers of tin foil over it. Then the plug wire holds what ever shape you put it in with tons of heat protection. Spray paint it black or run a sleeve over it and its not so bad.

 

MSD wires worked well for me. Just spend some extra time bending the boot and spinning it on the plug to get the routing you need.

 

I was just going to post and found this post! LS3, with 2010-15 camaro shorty headers in a Porsche Boxster, track only car .Left the coils in stock location , just installing Taylor wires was a bi##H! Currently have DEI heat sleeves and three were touching the DEI titainum wrapped headers and got torched, so thats a fail! I was at a track day, so I smelled them when I stopped, zip tied them up, finished the day, yesterday track day, no problems, ordered new wires but the zip tie melted, and really torched the wire where only the core is there. it was missing here and there so I knew I was done

So Accel ceramic, no heat boots? I saw them today, as it would be really easy I was thinking Heatshield products boots..thoughts?? The headers I have look like pretzels, CYL 4,6,3,5 are real tight

Just get a cut to length kit and come up from the bottom?

 

You need an air gap between the wire and the manifold, period. No product or wire will survive otherwise. You don't need a fancy wire, they do diddly.

Engine masters did an episode where they beat the snot out of a header with a hammer over and over. At the end it looked like someone ran it over with a truck. It lost zero power compared to an un-dented manifold. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do! lol

 

No, I gotcha! the mistake I made was heat sleeve on the wire and wrapped header and thought all would be ok, but it was laying against it too hard on three pipes! So the "beating up and denting" the headers is near impossible because of where they make contact, I am going to make some small heat shields with an air gap, new ceramic wires and sleeve and we should be good. These headers should prob have wire that come from the underside, and that may be the final solution . Hell, I had to install the plugs first, then the headers, then the wires ..Completely impossible from any position to install center 4 plugs without removing the headers

 

Seen a few manifolds designed like that. Makes zero sense to me. I pull my plugs every time I race so no way that’d fly. 8 min job to have them all out and a new set back in.

14” Coil harness extensions are dirt cheap on ebay. I used a set to put the coils at the frame rails. Ran the wires up from the bottom as well. Worked really well and was pretty cheap/easy.

 

I was thinking about doing something like this. gets the coils away from rising heat, and drop plug wires under, I may look at different headers , same 2010-2015 camaro, only different brand. I tried these from eBay, made, so prob Chinese but thick flanges, and very nice welds, however plug pulling, like I said before, the plugs go in first. 40 years being a mechanic on many applications, I tried everything to install plugs with headers on. Pulling plugs wasn't a concern, as I may change this this coming winter. I am also adding some cooling ducts to the top engine cover, to ram air to the exhaust system and top end while driving this weekend..Man these are fun, better then "working"!

 

Just a quick follow up... I bought three sets of wires. They will not be shelfed because I'm building another LS swap and had no wires so...I bought Taylor , ICT long wires, (to re-route underneath) and Accel ceramic Race.. These 2010-2015 eBay headers, look to be pretty good build quality, but left little room for #3 and # 6 wires, super tight, and to go under with 90 boots looks to be even worse.. Because these are the headers I have, I need to do something , I never thought I'd have to do..In this case, the ceramic seems the best choice and for that matter fit, the install, not so much. The boots clear, with a little air gap to the tube without denting the tube. I don't care about that, we have all seen the dyno numbers, BUT, i did have to slide the headers back to install them, just as I did to install the plugs. Good thing I planned ahead and installed manifold studs, to make the job a lot easier. This winter, either manifolds are going on OR possibly BBK headers OR, I'll make my second set of headers in 35 years, remembering to have clearance to pull plugs with headers install!

 

Just bash the headers and lose 1 hp. If it's on the under side no one will notice.

 

I needed clearance on two tubes and made a factory looking smooth dimple using my 20T press and a large impact socket on its side.

 

What we used... 55 Chevy p/U with a 5.3.
Sitting on the frame.
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